72' Stepside 2 1/2 Rockwell Pond Truck

[67ChevyRedneck]

Most people would have scrapped that cab (myself included) GREAT job on getting it back in shape!

I look forward to seeing it done... and please... take LOTS of pics of skinning the doors, I may do this to my original doors and put 'em back on the truck.

[BIG HEAD]

after removing the outter skins of the original doors for the cab. i had them media blasted. the passenger door bottom was to far gone so i put a lower patch panel on it. the driver door needed only a small piece of metal in it. then they got a shot of epoxy primer.

[BIG HEAD]

i got my door skins. took a scotch brite pad scuffed the inside and epoxy primed them. i bought a couple of sound deadner pads to put on before installing the skins. so i get more straight motor noise and less rattles.

[BIG HEAD]

the cab is getting closer and closer. did not make my goal of jan 31 to have in final prime, but it is coming

[BIG HEAD]

as i have prevouisly posted the cab was worse than i first thought. it came from the original owner. it had never been painted. but when i got it back from the media blaster i new i had my hands full. the crazy thing is how the project started. i wanted to build a 67-72 4 x 4. i've had several 2wd's. and i had enough parts to build a 4wd minus a frame. i just about decided i was going to convert a 2wd frame when i got a call about a 71' gmc 2500 4x4. after talking to the owner he wanted more than i was wanting to spend for the truck. but i went and looked at it anyway. i told the owner that i liked the truck but did not want to spend that much on the thing and left. later that nite the guy called me and told me he would take 1000.00 for it. he came off $2000.00 with out asking. so i bought it later that week after telling a friend about the purchase he told me he had a 72' short 4x4 frame behind his shop i could have if i came and got it. so i started this project with this free frame. i want to build a clean truck with a dana 60 front / 70 rear, 4.88 gears and lockers. aset of 44 bogger tires. that is what i did. well i had my rolling chassi. so then i went to a mud bogg and had to get some rockwells. i did, put some 4 inch blocks between the 12 inch springs and axles. when i had that all done i traded a buddy my springs for the coilovers and built the 4 link suspention.
i still have all the parts minus the springs to build a street truck. So that is what i am going to do next with the 71' 2500 gmc long bed.

[msgross]

I think that most people are just amazed that you were able to save the cab. Nice work... more pics more pics please...

[STOCKISH]

Awesome build, I love it.

[BIG HEAD]

I'll post some more cab repair pictures monday morning and by the end of week do some door skin replacement with pictures.

[vk_chevy]

nice build, it's gonna be one nasty truck on those rockwells,

[BIG HEAD]

Cab repair & patch panels

[BIG HEAD]

More patching

[BIG HEAD]

Left side repair roof & door opening

[BIG HEAD]

Picture # 5 is my head mount power steering kit from allstar.

[Joey~AP]

Mad, mad skillz, my friend!

I am a fan!

[BIG HEAD]

finally today i am starting body work on the cab. i feels great to do so. all welding and patch work is done.

[BIG HEAD]

I am doing the body work on the roof first, inside & out. Fire wall, dash, kick panels, and floor. I am going to have to adjust cab corner patch panels a little after i get the doors skinned and hung. So after all else is done im going to finalize the cab corners and rocker panels. Very excited. I am painting the roof and inside orange. the floor is getting orange bed liner. On the outside it will be gray like the bed. The bottom of the cab is getting a couple of coats of the gray bed liner. It want be long now.

[msgross]

I have the same issue in my lower driver side windshield area... take some good pics when you fix that...

looking good.

[Dieselwrencher]

It is definitely taking shape very nice. No doubt about it! One question for you. On your stub shaft for your 205, I see that the case is quite a bit lower than the trans. Do you think the u-joints will wear fast like this? I can't tell in your pic, but is your output yoke a bolt on style or a slip style on the TH400's out put shaft? I am going to put a divorced 205 in a 84 K20 with a cummins in it. It is only a standard cab long box and I am having problems finding a short slip joint drive shaft I can cut down to keep driveshaft angles kosher. The truck has a 6" lift and 36's. The trans is a ZF5 speed and has a bolt on yoke on the out put shaft. Any suggestions? Thanks Ryan.

[BIG HEAD]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

It is definitely taking shape very nice. No doubt about it! One question for you. On your stub shaft for your 205, I see that the case is quite a bit lower than the trans. Do you think the u-joints will wear fast like this? I can't tell in your pic, but is your output yoke a bolt on style or a slip style on the TH400's out put shaft? I am going to put a divorced 205 in a 84 K20 with a cummins in it. It is only a standard cab long box and I am having problems finding a short slip joint drive shaft I can cut down to keep driveshaft angles kosher. The truck has a 6" lift and 36's. The trans is a ZF5 speed and has a bolt on yoke on the out put shaft. Any suggestions? Thanks Ryan.

Ryan I see you study things like me. It is a slip yoke and there is angle on the u-joints. Nothing binds. The needle bearings in a joint do not spin unless there is angle on the joint. And they half to spin in order to get any life out of them. The case is a NP200 or called M37 after the milatery truck they are commonly found in. If you put a floater in just dont put the mid shaft straight in line for reasons already stated. I would not put a floater (unless thats just what I have) in a truck with six inches of lift. The reason why we use a floater is to set back and/or clock the case to cut down on drive shaft angle. If the truck started life as a 2wd and you convert it. Yes a floater would make that easier.

[Dieselwrencher]

I understand the u-joints need some angle to operate correctly. Just wasn't sure at what angle it becomes an issue. It probabaly just looks worse than it really is due to the short distance of the shaft. And yes, I either have to use the divorced tcase or figuire out a way to adapt a NP205 to a ford zf 4x4 trans. And keep it cheap because it is my brother's truck. He has very little to no money. He is in the marines and is trying to save up enough so we can ship it out to him. Thanks for the info.

[BIG HEAD]

i have been sanding filler. it is looking good.

[Frizzle Fry]

Where did you get the upper door opening patches? I know that Z bend is too tight to make on a standard brake.

[BIG HEAD]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Where did you get the upper door opening patches? I know that Z bend is too tight to make on a standard brake.

I made them in a standard brake. The last small bend that was pretty much cut off when i shaved the drip rail, I made it with an air powered flanging tool. the one that flanges on one side and punches holes on the other side.

[nvrsatisfied]

the build is looking great!!!! i love the way you guys in florida build these 4x4's. SOME day i wanna trailer my OKIE ass on down there and give it a shot. so it looks like i will be getting trucks gone wild 7 or 8 to see you tearing it up????

what is the hight from ground to bottom of the door, and what degree/angle are your shafts going to be at??

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[BIG HEAD]

Originally Posted by nvrsatisfied

the build is looking great!!!! i love the way you guys in florida build these 4x4's. SOME day i wanna trailer my OKIE ass on down there and give it a shot. so it looks like i will be getting trucks gone wild 7 or 8 to see you tearing it up????

what is the hight from ground to bottom of the door, and what degree/angle are your shafts going to be at??

subscribed

we are at 67 inches to the floor board with the 44 boggers. i have 47 inch v-treads that i will be running. as far as the angle on the drive shafts i dont have the shafts in now (getting painted) but ill post later with pictures.