Having issues 99 Burban k1500.... Help.....

[SEVEND2]

99 Burban 4x4 k1500 LS model anyhow weak on take offs gets ok when hits 2nd gear, runs good after that, same loss of power no balls when hitting kick down too... Engine light comes on at that point P0101 and P0101pd.. Cleaned the mass airflow sensor, ran it same issues with no balls on take offs, pass downs and climbing a small hill like an on ramp to a freeway incline.... Any ideas, help getting really frustrated.... Thanks. Sevend2!!!!
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[bwood]

How's the fuel pressure? 60 psi is the spec and down below 55 can be noticeable. If the miles are high, check the distributor gear for wear. These are roller cam engines and the cam gear is harder than the dist gear. When the mileage gets in the 150k range is when this can become an issue, usually when pulling hills.

[biggsteve97]

Originally Posted by SEVEND2

99 Burban 4x4 k1500 LS model anyhow weak on take offs gets ok when hits 2nd gear, runs good after that, same loss of power no balls when hitting kick down too... Engine light comes on at that point P0101 and P0101pd.. Cleaned the mass airflow sensor, ran it same issues with no balls on take offs, pass downs and climbing a small hill like an on ramp to a freeway incline.... Any ideas, help getting really frustrated.... Thanks. Sevend2!!!!
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Our 99 suburban started the same way. eventually after doing cap, rotor, wires, plugs, ignition coil, ignition module, oxygen sensors, mass air flow sensor and a fuel pump. Nothing helped, it just kept getting worse and eventually it got to where it wouldnt even start. Pulled the upper intake and found fuel pooled in the wierd pockets on the intake floor, the spider was leaking as well as the pressure regulator and the mechanical poppet valves were stuck shut on most cylinders. Replaced the spider with the Borg Warner multipoint conversion kit. That was three years ago and have never had another problem since. plus has more power and mpg's than we had the first 200k. These engines are notorious for bad spiders. The poppet valves are junk and will cause all kinds of weird driveability issues including no power/lack of power and eventually hard starting. They must have 60 psi minimum to even force the poppets open so if the lines under the intake have even the slightest leak there will not be enough pressure at the poppet to open it especially after 60k miles and they are gummed up.

[Rufton]

I'd run vacuum gauge tests.
I'd pull plugs and inspect color.
I'd do bwood fuel psi test but won't let you know if spider legs leaking.
bigsteve97 is looking at a prime suspect w/ a long rap sheet.
As always may be multiple gremlins.
This is my plugs on bad spider:

[Rufton]

If your spider is bad I'd consider the newer species available at at a parts store near you.
Astute observers will note proprietary heater hose delete

[biggsteve97]

Well, when was the last time a complete tune up was done? Cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter, air filter?

[Rufton]

I'd investigate possible causes of P0101; MAF, EGR, etc.

It would be nice to have a high end scan tool that can measure timing, sensor data, etc.
Too bad they tend to cost over $300.

[SEVEND2]

engine rebuilt a couple of years ago, just changed out fuel pump, seems better, had it smoged, passed, but had warning for mass air flow sensor, I have one on order, going to change it out when it gets here. thanks for all the info, and directions to look and go.... will keep posted!!!

[SEVEND2]

new fuel pump, fuel filter, dist cap and rotor, new plug wires and plugs, new MAS, new air filter...

problem seems only after I drive it for a while and stop, like 5- 10 miles then turn it off, it don't want to start up again.. takes a while to crank over... some rare times sitting at a stop sign the RPMs will flutter around the 300 - 500 range, Normal rpm is 600-800......

I am not mechanicly inclined with , tend to know a little bit more about our old 60s and early 70s one...


grrrrrrrr

[biggsteve97]

Originally Posted by SEVEND2

new fuel pump, fuel filter, dist cap and rotor, new plug wires and plugs, new MAS, new air filter...

problem seems only after I drive it for a while and stop, like 5- 10 miles then turn it off, it don't want to start up again.. takes a while to crank over... some rare times sitting at a stop sign the RPMs will flutter around the 300 - 500 range, Normal rpm is 600-800......

I am not mechanicly inclined with , tend to know a little bit more about our old 60s and early 70s one...


grrrrrrrr

My old truck does that when I drive home. I have narrowed it down to either the ignition control module or the rusted pickup coil inside the distributor getting hot or a heat spike. after a couple of mins it starts right up.
I would pull the ignition control module from the bracket next to the ignition coil and have it tested. Seen those alot lately being bad.