Wilwood master cylinder instal with out booster tips??

[FRENCHBLUE72]

I just got my wilwood master cylinder for my 72 chevy and I was kind of wondering how some of you have installed them? I am thinking I need to drill new holes and maybe cut the eyelet off the old break pedal rod???? Hekp here please...

[wraprail]

Wilwood makes several master cylinders that could work on a 1972 "Chevy" so maybe a model/part number or even a photo would be helpful. I assume by "instal with out booster" you mean Manual or Non-Power?

BTW, Hot August Nights 2012 was like umm......almost exactly one year ago. Give or take a week.....so was it done?

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Nope not done lost interest in it but now I'm back on it... I got the master attached to the firewall.. Now I'm just wondering what rod to use or should I just make the stock one work? Also do I need the 10 pound check valve that was sold to me at the same time? I don't feel I need it as my master is still up on the firewall? I did get a wilwood adjustable proportion valve.. I'll post a pic when I get home website won't let me post em..
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[lolife99]

My truck came without a booster and the stock pedal rod worked with the Wilwood M/C.
Just verify you have between 1/8"-1/4" of free play in the brake pedal.
You don't need the check valve unless your M/C is lower than the calipers.
(frame mounted)
Install your adjustable prop valve somewhere in the rear brake line.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Thanks keith.. My truck came with a booster I was just planning on cutting off the eyelet on the end of the push rod to make it hopefully work.. Thanks for the info.. That's super awesome that a well known hotrod shop would sell me parts I don't need when they had all the info about my truck..
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[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

That's super awesome that a well known hotrod shop would sell me parts I don't need when they had all the info about my truck..
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Unfair statement, even with plenty of info its very hard for a shop to know "Exactly" how your truck was set up, especially looking at things like the variety of power/no-power/disc/no-disc masters, boosters etc. Most shops would prefer to sell you everything you might need, because you'd be just as peeved if they shorted you parts.

Fwiw, rod length is a pretty easy thing to fix. The biggest issue IMO is making sure that the max length depresses the plunger all the way, without trying to force it past its maximum depth. Some vehicles also came with an adjustable pedal rid, whereas most of the manual braking systems had a stationary rod. When I did my hydroboost swap from manual to hydro, I took the newer adjustable end and sleeved/welded it to the old part.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Thanks for the info working on it now... As far the extra parts go I can use the check valve on another project aka little daisy..
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[robnolimit]

As a general rule of thumb, I would use the checkvalve, or valves. Our standard approach is: 1) a 2 lb check valve for disk brakes. 2) a 10 lb check valve for drum brakes. 3) an adjustable check valve in the rear line. Many people will say that with the firewall mounted master cyl. But I dis-agree. The job of a check valve is to keep a set amount of line pressure in the system so that the brakes are 'ready to go', no lag time. It's a small investment in time and $$ to help build future safety and happiness. - not to mention a headache reduction.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Thank you rob for the information... Where would be the best place to mount the 10 pound check valve? Sure would be nice to be able to edit posts so I'll just say I feel like an ass and jumped to conclusions... I guess there's a pretty damn good reason they are a big shop..
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[robnolimit]

lol, no problem, not all shops follow the same rules. We stick the rules that work best until we find something that works better. The general rule for valving is....... "mount the valves as close to the master..'as reasonable'. Reasonable is a pretty subjective term. Of coarse, using a special fitting to screw the check valves directly into the output of the master would be 'as close as posible', but that may not be reasonable. I'd say within 18" to 20" max from the master is a good idea.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

I'm guessing I need one for each front and rear out put or just the front?
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[FRENCHBLUE72]

Looks like check valve goes in front line only thanks guys for all the help..

[robnolimit]

We use one check valve in each 'zone'. So, one front, and one rear. 2 lb for disc, 10 lb for drum

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Looks like I need a 2 pound valve thanks rob for all your help..

[wraprail]

I have never used a Residual Pressure valve with Disc brakes. I wonder if it would take some of the pedal travel out of my manual brakes. What about causing excess drag? How many of you are using a 2lb residual pressure valve with your firewall mounted master and disc brakes?
Rob, do you guys recommend using one in both front and rear brake circuts? (4 wheel disc)

[kvn1011]

good read