1948 Chevy project

[Root2812]

I think you did a good job. A floor is a great place to start learning metal work. You made it good and strong and any imperfections in the welding are covered by carpet so no one will ever know. Keep doing it and you'll be a pro in no time.

[J48chevy]

Thanks guys. Oldman3 I purchased the floor pan from classic industries.

[99 to Life]

good job man, patches can be fun to do actually. If you grind down your welds, throw a skim coat of duraglas over them. There may be tiny pin holes you missed or can't see etc, so its always good security. Its all about practice, learning how to bounce around and stitch weld, not burning through and letting metal get so hot it warps. I like to use .023 or .030 on sheetmetal.

[focusedontheprize]

Your truck is coming along great. No need to rush and it sounds like you are learning a lot from this. I installed the TCI rear leaf springs in my '49 with lowering blocks and a Ford 8.8...you will love it.

[52'5window]

Just curious. What is your new over all wheelbase now that you have moved the rear end back?
I think stock is 115" so you are probably closer 119" now right?

[J48chevy]

Originally Posted by 52'5window

Just curious. What is your new over all wheelbase now that you have moved the rear end back?
I think stock is 115" so you are probably closer 119" now right?

I will measure it tomorrow and let you know. Good question. Also thanks everyone for the comments on floor.

[99 to Life]

1/2 ton AD is 116" WB but the wheels are offset almost 2" maybe less. My guess the kit will put you about 118"

[J48chevy]

Just measured it. 129 inches. Now remember this is a 3/4 ton not half ton.

[99 to Life]

oh ok, yeah missed the 3/4 ton! stock 3600 is 125.25" so I'v found. seems like a big change.

[Dan in Pasadena]

J48,
Just found your thread and I'm enjoying it.

How experienced a welder are you? I ask because I have an IFS kit to install and I am an inexperienced welder with a little 110v Hobart Handler 140. Supposedly I can weld up to 3/16 plate with it but I am hesitant to try. Thinking of tackng it in and having a certified welder run the beads. I've also thought of just finding a local shop to install it that won't charge me an arm and a leg.

[J48chevy]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

J48,
Just found your thread and I'm enjoying it.

How experienced a welder are you? I ask because I have an IFS kit to install and I am an inexperienced welder with a little 110v Hobart Handler 140. Supposedly I can weld up to 3/16 plate with it but I am hesitant to try. Thinking of tackng it in and having a certified welder run the beads. I've also thought of just finding a local shop to install it that won't charge me an arm and a leg.

Very new at it myself. I have the same welder also. Luckily my dad is a welder for a living and had him look over my stuff. Mine may not be as pretty as a professional, and at times I over weld stuff, but it will stay. So far doing replacement panels is all about taking my time and making sure to not burn thru with the welds. On the Hobart, I actually had it at the lowest point to do the floor so far. For the frame components it was between the 2 highest set points. In the end it is what you are comfortable doing. I would not think a shop would charge you that much to do if you went that route too.

[AZDavid]

J Nice job on the 48. I am on my first build too and wanted to thank you for the info on your suspension. My build is also a 48 3600 5 window. I just picked up an explorer rear yesterday and have a TCI kit coming. looking forward to seeing your build come together.

[lower50's]

Great job so far keep up the good work.

[J48chevy]

Very slow build. Here is a pic of my tank and motor/trans mocked up. Making some progress. 😁

[J48chevy]

Tank pic

[J48chevy]

Motor/trans mock up.

[99 to Life]

very nice

[oldman3]

Looking good...Jim

[J48chevy]

Well frame is all boxed and painted with chassis saver. Motor/trans mock up done also. Now time to focus on the cab. Making some progress and not too shabby for a rookie. 😎

[J48chevy]

Frame with chassis saver paint.

[99 to Life]

nice and clean, feels good to have roller

[J48chevy]

Thanks everyone for the words of encouragement. I did post a question in the general forum about my panel replacement on the cab. More headaches but still enjoying the build. Here is a few pics of my issue. New hinges, and new outer panel. Now when mocked up there is about 1/4 inch gap. Has me baffled.

[J48chevy]

With this bolt wedged in the outer door and new panel match up great. Without bolt the door sticks out. Nothing was bent when removing and door adjustment is maxed out.

Again I am brand new to this and would appreciate any insight on what I may be missing with this.

[J48chevy]

Could this be due to new door hinges? The part that has me most confused is the top and bottom of the door align with the new panel but the middle part of the door is bowed out unless I gap it with the bolt as shown in the pic. Don't know if I should do something to build up the cab area in place of that bolt to fill the gap. Again nothing is tweaked as it was a simple rust removal and put the new piece on. Don't want to start welding until I can get this gap issue figured out.

There has to be someone on here who has run into this issue. Ideas and thoughts would be appreciated.

[99 to Life]

gap looks really good. I'v seen new hinges and they seemed really hard to open/put alot of strain on the door hinge pocket. I'd reinforce that hinge pocket since you have that outter cowl already off.

as for your gap, I'd do what you gotta do to add or relief metal. Esp on new patches. I'v seen several guys cut new fenders to help with gaps. Its hard to say if its the new patches or the trucks from the factory. They weren't gapped from factory at all and one truck is going to vary alot from others sometimes.

adding some filler in that area, I don't foresee a problem with. I'd suggest putting your inner door rubber on as it often effects door gaps.