1965 Ford Mustang

[JRANGER]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

It fits!

like a GLOVE!

[67ChevyRedneck]

I wish! I had to drop the exhaust to get it in. I was afraid to move it back up, I was just happy it was finally in. I'm sick of buying parts twice. I was warned some of the aftermarket shifters would need the stock hole enlarged... I was really hoping I wouldn't have to... but I'll have to enlarge the shifter hole. Boooo.

So far the 1998 (last year before electronic speedometer) 3.8L V6 T5 fits! So many people said you couldn't use the 94-98 V6 T5s (but after much research they're no different than the 94-95 GT T5s, even use the same rebuild kit). With this trans, you need everything, trans, bell housing, starter, engine plate all off the donor car, and a 164 tooth 28oz imbalance flywheel. The flywheel is the important part. The stock flywheels are 157 tooth 28 oz imbalance flywheel, while the 94-98 V6 uses a 164T 50 oz imbalance. Luckily, Ford made a 164T 28oz flywheel after they swapped the mustangs to the 50oz.

The whole reason for that is that the 94-95 GT and 94-98 V6's have an input shaft that's about 3/4" longer than the previous generations. The GT's use the 157T flywheel while the V6 used the 164T. You can use the V6 tans with a 94-95 GT bell housing if you want to reuse your original starter and a stock 65/66 mustang 167T flywheel, but those bell housings are getting harder to find. The starter is physically located in a different spot on each bell housing, hence the need for using the correct bell/flywheel combo.

[JRANGER]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

I wish! I had to drop the exhaust to get it in. I was afraid to move it back up, I was just happy it was finally in. I'm sick of buying parts twice. I was warned some of the aftermarket shifters would need the stock hole enlarged... I was really hoping I wouldn't have to... but I'll have to enlarge the shifter hole. Boooo.

So far the 1998 (last year before electronic speedometer) 3.8L V6 T5 fits! So many people said you couldn't use the 94-98 V6 T5s (but after much research they're no different than the 94-95 GT T5s, even use the same rebuild kit). With this trans, you need everything, trans, bell housing, starter, engine plate all off the donor car, and a 164 tooth 28oz imbalance flywheel. The flywheel is the important part. The stock flywheels are 157 tooth 28 oz imbalance flywheel, while the 94-98 V6 uses a 164T 50 oz imbalance. Luckily, Ford made a 164T 28oz flywheel after they swapped the mustangs to the 50oz.

The whole reason for that is that the 94-95 GT and 94-98 V6's have an input shaft that's about 3/4" longer than the previous generations. The GT's use the 157T flywheel while the V6 used the 164T. You can use the V6 tans with a 94-95 GT bell housing if you want to reuse your original starter and a stock 65/66 mustang 167T flywheel, but those bell housings are getting harder to find. The starter is physically located in a different spot on each bell housing, hence the need for using the correct bell/flywheel combo.

Thats awesome....One day maybe ill be able to figure that all out...When my 3 speed blows up that is lol

[67ChevyRedneck]

You've got it MUCH easier! For you, make sure you use a pre 1994 GT or 5.0L World Class T5 (they have the shorter input shaft that's the same as your 3 speed) and you can reuse your stock flywheel, clutch, bell housing, Z-bar, etc. All you need is the trans, a custom T5 trans mount ~$100, and a C4 mounting pad, and possibly shorten your DS, depends on the car.

I had to spend $360 on a clutch/cable kit (included clutch pedal with cable cam welded on it.) If my car was already a manual, I would have saved like $600 and a crap load of time. I'll be lucky if it's done by late July.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Got a little bit of disappointing news today... the motor in my car is not original to the car, nor it is even a 289. The block info is above the starter, so the only way to see it is to remove the starter. The block is a D10E-6015-AA which translates to:

D = 1970
1 = 1 (which makes it 1971)
O = Torino/Fairlane
E = Engine
6015 = engine block
AA = 302

So poo. The block has a "Remanufactured by Ford" logo on the side, I was kind of hoping it was the original motor. Whomever rebuilt it put all the original 289 stuff back on it though as it has a lot of the "early" (pre April 1965, which is what this car would have come with) parts. They even reinstalled the plate on the intake that states the motor build date was March 1965. This probably means the motor has a little more power than I initially thought, but probably not by much. I'll have to research it.

The good news is I pulled the pan and replaced the rear main seal. I hope I did it right. Watched a couple of videos and used my Ford engine book.

I can still see cross hatching in the cylinder walls and the crank specs are 0.004 to 0.010 for movement, mine is right at 0.005. So that's great too. The motor leaks because all the seals dried out... likely from too much sitting. When I pulled the rear main it was so brittle it just crumbled apart as I pulled it out.

So, the rear main is replaced and a new gasket for the oil pan.

[67ChevyRedneck]

T5 is fully mocked up. It appears everything fit... kind of.

Apparently the internetz was wrong. I could NOT use the 98 mustang's 3.8L starter. When I mocked it up I noticed it was fully engaged... not good. Did lots of research... apparently, THE ONLY starter that will work with the 3.8L bellhousing and 28oz 164T flywheel is a 1992-1994 F150 or Bronco (or full size van) 5.0L starter with a MANUAL transmission... yeah, that's a needle in the junkyard haystack. Went to 3 yards today, not only did I not see a SINGLE Bronco, there was only ONE F150 that fit the description and it's starter was gone... so I had to buy a $110 new one But it appears to fit correctly!

Correct starter (92-96 F150 5.0L 5spd):



Wrong starter (94-98 Mustang 3.8L 5spd): (notice the gear sticking out, the 3.8's must have their crank/flywheel set farther back in the block)

[67ChevyRedneck]

T5 in. Everything looks good now. Aftermarket trans mount is meant for T5 conversions. Should be able to take it all apart now for trans rebuild.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I've read the stock T5 shifters are very sloppy and can actually lead to premature wear of the transmission, so I bought an aftermarket short throw shifter... which came with this pile of crap fast and furious shifter??? Ummmmm... no...

[67ChevyRedneck]

So... I was saving this for my Firebird project.. but yea, I don't want to wait another 10 years to use it, so BOOM!!! Original Hurst Shifter. My dad says it's from the 70's (he was the one that originally bought it.) I guess it goes with my freakin' 1971 302!

[67ChevyRedneck]

It's been a while... time for an update!

So I rebuilt the trans. Not as hard as I thought it would be. I used the video from Hanlon Motorsports, I also used it as an excuse to buy a press I've been wanting to get forever. It was definitely needed, I had to press on and off 4 bearings and a race into the trans case. I watched the video right on a laptop 2' from where I was rebuilding the trans... I rewound and let it play so many times I have some of it memorized

I also had a hassle with my "cheap" flywheel. It was $120, then I had to pay another $110 to have dowel pins installed, then I though I had a terrible vibration, but it was just the trans mount touching the trans. It was cleaned up then sprayed with brake clean before the clutch and pressure plate went on!

[JRANGER]

glad your up and working

[67ChevyRedneck]

The case was pretty dirty. It took a couple hours with some cleaners and a PRESSURE WASHER to get it clean... It was a lot worse than it looked.

I got the Ford Racing rebuild kit from Summit... that didn't come in any "ford racing" packaging... I think I might have gotten the cheap aftermarket kit and I paid the $$$ for the expensive one... maybe I got the right one... don't know...

Anyway, here's the trans apart. Good thing I had the video!!!

[67ChevyRedneck]

This little booger was a pain. I lost the ball bearing that holds the 1-2 slider sleeve in place. Spent a couple hours looking for it, then twice that amount of time trying to find a replacement anywhere! I ended up getting a replacement 3/16" chrome steel ball from a bike shop.

I literally wasted/lost a week because of that ball. After that I rebuilt the main shaft assembly.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Then I got to put it all back in!

[67ChevyRedneck]

The teeth in this trans were in excellent shape... all but the 1-2 slider and reverse idler gear (they ride on each other). They got a little chewed up, so I replaced those with new ones.

Overall the gears all looked as good as this one. I wasn't able to get the mileage on this trans, as someone had already taken the dash out of the car (this must have been a common issue or something, as almost every SN-95 I looked in was missing the dash?) My guess is that it had as least 150K on it.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Main shaft in.

...and hanging off the back is the ever important 0.72:1 5th gear. The 94-04 V-6 cars came standard with a 2.73 rear gear and "less" overdrive than the V8's which came with a 0.67:1 OD, but steeper rear gear sets.

Since my car has a 2.80 rear end, similar horsepower to the V6, and almost a spot on match for tire diameter, using the V6's speedometer gears should be very close to correct (I checked with an online calculator and needed a 17.6 something tooth gear, and I have an 18, so it's going to be as close as I can get it.)

[67ChevyRedneck]

This was weird. This part differed from the video, so I'm glad I kept parts in order. The thing sticking out in the pic above has to go into the slot in the case. This was added to the newer trans to keep people from grinding the car into R.

[67ChevyRedneck]

The trans also had a broken shift fork. So, I had to disassemble the forks as well and install a new one. When the pads get worn, they fall off, and the forks tend to get broken.

[67ChevyRedneck]

My favorite part was seeing it done... then taking it apart again

That's right, I tested the shift pattern and it would not go into 1st. It was 2am so I quit for the night, the next morning I pulled the cover to realize, that even though I was very aware that the forks needed to go in the middle slots of the 1-2 and 3-4 sliders I still somehow missed the 1-2 fork and it ended up outside the slider. It only cost me about an hour and a little silicone.

[67ChevyRedneck]

...and another little FU to Ford for making these cars so damn difficult to work on (compared to other vehicles of the era) I put a square body S10 shift knob on my early 80's Hurst shifter. Perfect fit, it has the same 3/8-16 pattern... so if you need a 5 speed shift ball for a hurst shifter and don't want to pay $30-40 for a "new" one... hit up a pick n pull for square body S10s. The newer 94+ ones don't fit, bigger thread pattern.

I also found a dust boot for the shifter that fits perfect off a Nissan something or other...

[67ChevyRedneck]

Shoved under the car.

Not fun when you're by yourself and the damn car is too low and there's no room to get a jack under the trans or room to lift it... I ended up wedging it in between the exhaust, then got a jack under it to get it up in place

[67ChevyRedneck]

I also wanted to keep a somewhat stock look inside the car, so I had to cut the crap out of the stock style stuff so it fit.

The metal in the first pic was the same size as the rubber (I cut the rubber down too...) The rubber and boot had to be removed from the metal, then reglued.

Then I had to trim the bezel.

The old Hurst shifter was looking a little rough with some pits to I scuffed it up really good, hit it with some high build primer a couple times, then knocked it down. I think it looks cool

I have new carpet for the car too, the old one was a little ratty looking, so I just cut it out when I was doing the pedals/firewall pad.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by JRANGER

glad your up and working

Been working on it. Got slowed up a bit though, I worked 3 weekends straight (sat and sun) for crazy hours. Progress happened, but not much, plus I thought I had a major problem in this video (black marks on car are my greasy hand prints):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyPY...GrFMZ_bNfBmY2A

Also, in the first video I lost a manifold bolt, so the exhaust was loud.

Turns out it was just the trans just barely touching the trans mount. I had to removed the exhaust (for the 4th time) to clearance it.

Video of car driving/working!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrWq...fBmY2A&index=1

The exhaust was also a little loud/tickey in this video because I just snugged up everything for a test drive, I wasn't going to tighten it all back down good if I had to remove the damn exhaust again! No more loud exhaust or ticks.

I'll make another video when the interior is done.

[67ChevyRedneck]

So, the car had just a few leaks... which coated the ever loving crap out of the entire trans tunnel. The oil and trans fluid reacted with the cheap rubberized undercoating turning it into a black sticky goo. I spent damn near 2 days on my back cleaning that goop off.

I was shocked to find the original red oxide coating used on the car from the factory. The trans was the biggest leak offender. I fixed the leaking rear main... so hopefully no more nasty leaks.

This was the only patch on the floor of the ENTIRE car. They did the half ass 1" overlap fix, so I tried to blend it in a little better with some seam sealer.

You never find Mustangs this clean!

[67ChevyRedneck]

This was neat, I had to have my drive shaft shortened about an inch, so I took it to Carolina Drive Line (highly recommend them). Before I took it I cleaned all of the gunk off of it and found the factory paint marks.