Harmonic b

[68ihscout]

The threads on the crank are stripped ,used a chaser to clean it up and i was able to get the harmonic almost all the way before the threads gave ,i am about 1/8th inch out any suggestions. I am also wondering the old seal on the timing cover was not absolutely flush ,the new one we did is would that maybe be the difference in the shiny part isee.,, any thoughts are greatfuly apreciated.
Posted via Mobile Device

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 68ihscout

The threads on the crank are stripped ,used a chaser to clean it up and i was able to get the harmonic almost all the way before the threads gave ,i am about 1/8th inch out any suggestions. I am also wondering the old seal on the timing cover was not absolutely flush ,the new one we did is would that maybe be the difference in the shiny part isee.,, any thoughts are greatfuly apreciated.
Posted via Mobile Device

Do the pulleys line up where it is now? Post a picture of where the end of the crank is in the balancer.

LockDoc

[68ihscout]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Do the pulleys line up where it is now? Post a picture of where the end of the crank is in the balancer.

LockDoc

I will have to educate myself on how to post a pic ,,i have not try to install the pulleys yet but i will do a test fit this weekend , thank you doc for the great idea !!
Posted via Mobile Device

[68ihscout]

I took a pic hope it shows
Posted via Mobile Device

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 68ihscout

I took a pic hope it shows
Posted via Mobile Device

Picture looks good, now take one from the front.

LockDoc

[68ihscout]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Picture looks good, now take one from the front.

LockDoc

As soon as i get home from work ill take a frint picture. Thanks doc
Posted via Mobile Device

[RichardJ]

Were you trying to pull the balancer on with the original balancer bolt?

I don't know how you were trying to install the balancer, nor do I have any way of knowing the condition of the threads remaining. All I'm offering is how I install balancers and what I would do to attempt to finish your installation.

That bolt is always too short for installation purposes. Try to clean the threads up again. Find an extra long bolt that can be threaded in, all the way to the bottom of the hole. Assemble a large, extra fat washer(s) to push against the balancer. Next is a stack of high quality thrust washers. Preferably with a couple of polished stainless washers and a few drops of oil. Next is a nut that you will be turning to push the balancer in.

When you're turning a bolt that is being used as the installer, it is only pulling on a few threads at a time and wearing away the threads as it is turning. A long bolt that isn't turning, is pulling against all of the threads, the full length of the hole.

I have an assortment of old bearing and gear pullers. Among those pullers I can always find the right center bolt with the right threads that I can turn into an installer for a variety of engines.

The balancer pictured is a photo I posted on a Corvair forum, but you should be able to see that the nut is doing all the work and it is turning against oiled thrust washers.

[68ihscout]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

Were you trying to pull the balancer on with the original balancer bolt?

I don't know how you were trying to install the balancer, nor do I have any way of knowing the condition of the threads remaining. All I'm offering is how I install balancers and what I would do to attempt to finish your installation.

That bolt is always too short for installation purposes. Try to clean the threads up again. Find an extra long bolt that can be threaded in, all the way to the bottom of the hole. Assemble a large, extra fat washer(s) to push against the balancer. Next is a stack of high quality thrust washers. Preferably with a couple of polished stainless washers and a few drops of oil. Next is a nut that you will be turning to push the balancer in.

When you're turning a bolt that is being used as the installer, it is only pulling on a few threads at a time and wearing away the threads as it is turning. A long bolt that isn't turning, is pulling against all of the threads, the full length of the hole.

I have an assortment of old bearing and gear pullers. Among those pullers I can always find the right center bolt with the right threads that I can turn into an installer for a variety of engines.

The balancer pictured is a photo I posted on a Corvair forum, but you should be able to see that the nut is doing all the work and it is turning against oiled thrust washers.

i bought and used the correct tool for the job ,the one that shows on your picture..
Posted via Mobile Device

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I'm installing one myself soon. Here's an excellent video, this guy is real good, though he seems to have more faith in experience than torque wrenches https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7BuijqjcUk


Not saying you didn't, but the bolt inserted into the crank has to bottom out. Otherwise you're tearing up threads as you tighten the balancer.

[Grumpy old man]

Here is an explanation of why you apply grease to the back of the crank seal , It's just a safety measure but if the spring does come off when your replacing the seal with the timing cover on the engine it eventually will end up in your oil pan and nobody wants pieces of spring steel getting sucked up into your oil pump . I've seen it happen . This is why I pull timing covers to replace crank seals .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOfOHMI6Wnc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MzHlqQFHcs

[68ihscout]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Here is an explanation of why you apply grease to the back of the crank seal , It's just a safety measure but if the spring does come off when your replacing the seal with the timing cover on the engine it eventually will end up in your oil pan and nobody wants pieces of spring steel getting sucked up into your oil pump . I've seen it happen . This is why I pull timing covers to replace crank seals .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOfOHMI6Wnc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MzHlqQFHcs

funny thing is ,that spring came flying off as soon as we took the cover off , and yes nobody wants pieces of steel flying around in there
Posted via Mobile Device

[68ihscout]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I'm installing one myself soon. Here's an excellent video, this guy is real good, though he seems to have more faith in experience than torque wrenches https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7BuijqjcUk


Not saying you didn't, but the bolt inserted into the crank has to bottom out. Otherwise you're tearing up threads as you tighten the balancer.

👍🏽👍🏽
Posted via Mobile Device

[68ihscout]

Well folks got the truck started sounded good but now we have hemorrhage from the bottom of timing cover /oil pan meet ,would it be safe to say its the oil pan gasket ,i did replace the half moon one but i guess it did not seat correctly ,thanks again
Posted via Mobile Device

[geezer#99]

Did you use the right one?
There are two.
Different thicknesses.

[mrein3]

Back to your messed up threads in the snout of the crank.

Google "Bottoming Tap". You can usually cut a few more threads in there with one.

[68ihscout]

Originally Posted by mrein3

Back to your messed up threads in the snout of the crank.

Google "Bottoming Tap". You can usually cut a few more threads in there with one.

I did run a 7/16 20 in there , the initial 1/4 inch threada were bad just deep wnough for the bolt to slip ,i got a longer bolt and cut it down a bit and it was able to grab enough to tighten ,its all good now .
Posted via Mobile Device

[68ihscout]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Did you use the right one?
There are two.
Different thicknesses.

I used the one that came with the timing cover gasket which was the right one ,i did put them side to side and they were the same ,.
Posted via Mobile Device

[garyd1961]

I've seen people drill out a crank with stripped threads and rethread it for a larger bolt, I believe it was a 3/4 bolt.

[68ihscout]

Originally Posted by garyd1961

I've seen people drill out a crank with stripped threads and rethread it for a larger bolt, I believe it was a 3/4 bolt.

Its all good bow ,but if i have to take it off again ill have to go that route.
Posted via Mobile Device

[geezer#99]

Did you lower the pan when you put the timing cover back on?

[68ihscout]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Did you lower the pan when you put the timing cover back on?

Oh oh ,i most certainly did not ,smh
Posted via Mobile Device

[geezer#99]

Oh, oh is right.
Likely knocked the gasket outta place.
There’s two ways to fix it.
One is drop the front of the pan about 1/2 inch so the timing cover gasket stays in place.
Two is leave the pan alone and modify the cover bottom channel.
Like this. Pic-in here and explanation.
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...ng-the-oil-pan

[68ihscout]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Oh, oh is right.
Likely knocked the gasket outta place.
There’s two ways to fix it.
One is drop the front of the pan about 1/2 inch so the timing cover gasket stays in place.
Two is leave the pan alone and modify the cover bottom channel.
Like this. Pic-in here and explanation.
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...ng-the-oil-pan

Posted via Mobile Device

[68ihscout]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Oh, oh is right.
Likely knocked the gasket outta place.
There’s two ways to fix it.
One is drop the front of the pan about 1/2 inch so the timing cover gasket stays in place.
Two is leave the pan alone and modify the cover bottom channel.
Like this. Pic-in here and explanation.
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...ng-the-oil-pan

i got me in this mess , looks like ill just change the oil pan gasket and be done with it hell of a lot easier than taking timing cover off if it was the seal.

Thanks for the info and help..
Posted via Mobile Device