The "In over my head" build thread

[mcmlxix]

My .03 cents....

I would brace the tub with alot of X members. Bolt in to the door jambs side to side, same for tailagate openiing. Also from door jamb to A pillar, door hinge area. Once its fully braced, then you can cut the rockers without too much worries and have it media blasted. Dont remove the braces till the body is back on the frame. Once its on the frame, install and align doors, then fenders and hood. Once its all straight, repair the structural rust at the rockers...

[SeventyOne]

Ok thanks MCM. I like that plan.

So rather than buying a rotisserie, I'm going to attempt to build one from two engine stands. I'll post pics along the way...

[Tom Vogel]

You could have mine for say $500. Worked great on my tub. You would have to come down here with a trailer, but I dont think you could buy the metal for that.

[SeventyOne]

Tom V. you're getting a PM...

[Tom Vogel]

Heres a couple more pics... The rack, which is the largest part, measures 11 1/2' X 4'. I suppose that part could be taken apart further, like the rotating part and the body cart part, but I wouldnt because its already set up for the first gen Blazer tub.

[botmfedr1]

Seventyone....2 more cents....Just get that rotisserie from Vogel...save your self the headache with all that bracing and x member stuff.....lol

Then when your done, you can sell it. I am sure a body shop around there could probably use it. I am guessing it would be like a car dolly...i have bought 2 and sold them for just as much as i paid for it when i was done using it.


Mondo

[SeventyOne]

Pretty much what was thinking. Though I might hang on to the rotisserie for future builds....

Yes, that's proof that the K5 disease has now made it to the brain....

Tom V.: consider the rotisserie bought. Just need to figure out how to get it home.

Originally Posted by botmfedr1

Seventyone....2 more cents....Just get that rotisserie from Vogel...save your self the headache with all that bracing and x member stuff.....lol

Then when your done, you can sell it. I am sure a body shop around there could probably use it. I am guessing it would be like a car dolly...i have bought 2 and sold them for just as much as i paid for it when i was done using it.


Mondo

[Nothinghead]

Wow, this si a cool build. Anything new in the last month?

[SeventyOne]

Thanks, NH!

Aside from driving down the coast to pick up Tom's rotisserie, The body is now completely stripped of extra parts (radio, steering column, real wheel tubs, basically anything that can be unbolted) and I am sourcing a media blaster. I have a few I need to give a call to.

Soon as I have it blasted and primed I will get new pics up.

[blazerboss]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

Thanks, NH!

Aside from driving down the coast to pick up Tom's rotisserie, The body is now completely stripped of extra parts (radio, steering column, real wheel tubs, basically anything that can be unbolted) and I am sourcing a media blaster. I have a few I need to give a call to.

Soon as I have it blasted and primed I will get new pics up.

This is almost as fun as reading a good book... keep it up (with photos too)... can't wait for the final chapter!

Motivation!

[Tom Vogel]

I spent alot of money on body and paint, But... it cost 400$ to blast mine, and Im sure the epoxy sealer did not come to $2600. Check around. just sayin

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

I spent alot of money on body and paint, But... it cost 400$ to blast mine, and Im sure the epoxy sealer did not come to $2600. Check around. just sayin

And I do expect to pay a good amount for paint - but I am glad you agree the blasting/priming cost was excessive. Also I think he was quoting me for some 12 hours of labor also at around $720. Does ~$1900 sound right for primer?

I have another lead on a shop that only blasts but need to figure out where to take it to get primed afterwards.

[fxdxharley]

1900 still seems way high to me. 400 is about right for the blasting then i would guess around 600 to prime. thats including the materials. so $1000 total would be my guess. but things are alot more out west then on the east.

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by fxdxharley

1900 still seems way high to me. 400 is about right for the blasting then i would guess around 600 to prime. thats including the materials. so $1000 total would be my guess. but things are alot more out west then on the east.

Yeah - between $1000 to 1500 was more what I was expecting to pay. I'll do more digging locally to see what I can find.

Back to my power steering line problem - I did more searching on the board (love this site!) and found a guy using a '75 C-10 line. I'll pick one up and see if that solves my clearance issue.

[SeventyOne]

Ok I think I found a solution I like for the power steering lines.

Pressure line is from Napa for a '75 C-10. Clears the block and frame as well as any moving parts. So if anyone is running a SBC, w/ a serpentine setup, with the engine moved forward 1.75" to fit a 700r4 - this is your hose!

Return line is also from Napa for a '71 K5. It looks nothing like my original hose/line and more like a universal fit but it should do the trick. you'll notice in the picks I haven't cut the hose to length or slide it onto the return port on the pump yet. Just mocking it up for now.

How important is it to get a frame clamp to hold the line to the frame?

[Tom Vogel]

That will work just fine.

[rwhite692]

great looking build, 71! Sent you a PM about the upholstery guy here in Tracy.

[SeventyOne]

Thanks. Had to stop work on it for a bit. Back on track now to start metal work on the body. Amassing some new tools and doing a TON of reading.

Hope to have the body back on the frame by summer (if not sooner!)

[SeventyOne]

Been keeping busy on some small tasks with the end goal of undercoating and getting the body back on the frame by Spring.

So with that in mind I started finishing things off on the Chassis that is essentially 95% done. I had my stock tank boiled out and lined because I was not happy at all with poly plastic tank - it's for sale if anyone is interested

Also no one reproduces the rubber isolators that go under the tank straps and the tank flange so I've got some 1/8" sheet rubber coming and I will copy the original rubbers.

Then I need to get the fuel lines finished off. Hard lines are in, just the rubber hose connections need to be put on.

Then I turned back to getting the body ready for undercoating. I cut out the all the rust spots on the bed floor and will be patching in scavenged '68 long bed patches soon.

Pics of the holes I cut in the floor - 5 spots in total were cut out. This is my first attempt at rust repair but I'm excited to learn. What's the worst that can happen?

Rear tail gate area - both sides are like this.




Crossmember was toast also but I will patch that also.


3 of the 4 wheel tub corners look like this, but this one was the worst one.




I'll prep the patches soon and get these checked off my list.

I am also stealing this "punch list" idea from the infamous "Low Buck Junkyard Build" - So here goes:

TUB WORK

• Repair wheel tub / bed floor rust
• Repair drilled hole in firewall by PO
• Cut larger firewall fuse panel hole for AAW kit
• Dress body bolt areas (Left over tack welds)
• Clean & Prep underside of Tub
• Spray some kind of rust converter in areas not accessible to be prep'd and primed
• Spray Epoxy Primer/Undercoat/Bedline

CHASSIS WORK

• Cut and install tank rubber isolators
• Hook up all gas lines
• Install Transmission cooler lines
• Install new starter bolts
• Torque engine mount bolts
• Install front axle breather
• Install Thermostat
• Install Radiator hose clamps
• Install BTO TV cable setup

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thanks for your help today.. I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy a welder now even though I'm not quite sure how much I'll actually use it

Love the title of your build thread.. I believe I'm right there with you

[SeventyOne]

Will hopefully get more time tomorrow to work on the K5.

Last few weekends I got a bit further on the bed patching. I also re-installed my original gas tank after the radiator shop was done with it. I made a set of 1/8" rubber isolators for the tank flange and straps using the originals as templates. Turned out really nice I think.

Found starter bolts that were the correct 4 5/16" length for my starter, got radiator hoses and clamps installed, the BTO TV Made EZ kit installed, transmission cooler lines are almost in...lots more to do though.

Here's an updated punch list:


TUB WORK

• Repair wheel tub / bed floor rust
• Patch PO drilled hole in firewall
• Cut firewall fuse panel hole for AAW kit
• Oven cleaner underside of Tub
• Pressure wash tub
• Spray some kind of rust converter in areas not accessible to be prep'd and primed
• Prep underside bare metal
• Paint/Undercoat/bedline
• Dress body bolt areas

CHASSIS WORK

• Finish install of transmission cooler lines
• Torque engine mount bolts
• Install front axle breather
• Install Thermostat (I read I should drill small holes)
• Cut down and Install power steering return line hose
• Test starter engagement and shim as needed and torque bolts
• Intall plug wire loom and cut down plug wires for cleaner look
• Modify old distributor into oil priming tool
• Modify Holley throttle return bracket to fit on Edelbrock Carb
• Clean up and paint orig. distributor hold down
• Install distributor stud and hold down
• Install oil dipstick
• Install transmission dipstick
• Install PVC valve and hose to carb

[Tom Vogel]

That rotisserie looks familiar!

[SeventyOne]

Just a little update showing some rust repair:









At least the tailgate was nice



Underside is now lined and they're prepping to paint the firewall and jams before mounting back on the frame!

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

That shop looks awfully familiar

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

That shop looks awfully familiar

Yeah man they pumped out this killer dark olive K5 recently. I'm just riding the wake.