49/54 LS driver

[panelrodder81]

Originally Posted by chev3600

No matter the frame, stock truck manifolds likely won't clear. I used trailblazer SS ones and it's still tight. Good luck!

I have a stock frame AD truck frame and the TBSS ones mentioned above still need some clearance like he said. More on the passenger-side than the driver-side because of the AWD of the SS it flares out more. I have some pics somewhere of my 5.3 sitting in the frame and the manifolds on if anyone wants to see what I mean. I also tried Corvette manifolds which would still need clearance but for me in a more inconvenient spot. Oh and the SS manifolds help keep your steering linkage cleaner than the Vette ones would have.

-Panelrodder

[dante81_98]

I would be interested in seeing the pictures.

[panelrodder81]

Here is the driver side w the SS manifold. This was the test fit of the steering linkage too. This side required just a slight notch into the edge of the frame, like 1/4" at most.



You can see a little better here with the covers taken off.


Here is the pass-side. The black line is to clear the entire mounting area. You could do about half, the inner black line, that much by just adding clearance for the exhaust tubing. On this side I wouldn't cut it either I would cut some and then heat and bend the rest so I didn't loose all the strength.


Hope that helps!

-Panelrodder

[panelrodder81]

Oh and my frame is stock frame rails but as you can see its got the Mustang II front suspension. Shouldn't change anything if you aren't using the MII as the impact points of the manifolds are further back but thought I mention it so you have all the data.

-Panelrodder

[dante81_98]

Thanks for the pictures. I have the stock frame rails too with a custom front suspension. I think my engine will end up sitting a little higher as its bagged with the running boards on the ground. will definitely keep this all in mind when we go to put the engine in.

[panelrodder81]

Originally Posted by dante81_98

Thanks for the pictures. I have the stock frame rails too with a custom front suspension. I think my engine will end up sitting a little higher as its bagged with the running boards on the ground. will definitely keep this all in mind when we go to put the engine in.

With my body sitting flat on the mounts, w rubber isolators in place, this was as high as I could mount my engine with a 4l60e without making a wider trans tunnel. The floor and firewall in the truck are reproductions by *****in' Products for reference. I am considering swapping my oil pan as it hangs lower than I'm normally comfortable with, I understand the Camaro, GTO, or CTS-V pans are much shorter to solve that though. Regardless, if you can mount it higher then you could avoid any issues on the driver-side and free up a lot of room on the passenger-side too. Good luck brother.

-Panelrodder

[dante81_98]

chev3600,

What radiator are you running? I am trying to figure out which radiator to get or the hot days of Phoenix. I was looking at the Us Radiator Desert cooler for an auto trans or Champion aluminum radiator. They have a 2, 3 and 4 core option. The two core says its enough to cool up to 450 hp which I will be well under. You have been running one for a while so I thought I would see which one you were running and if you liked it?

Thanks,
Chad

[chev3600]

I chose the champion aluminum because of the price. I think it was the 3 core. I'm running the stock mech fan and haven't had any running hot issues. Even without a shroud(yet). I've heard good things about the desert cooler, but was concerned about squeezing the fan in there. If you go electric, you probably have more room.

[Iceburgh]

Not trying to hi=jack this thread....but anyone looking for manifolds or headers.
Sanderson has a '54 1st in their shop now with a LS swap and mustang II suspension.
They are building shorty's and Long Tubes for it.
They hope to have them on the market in about 6-8 weeks.
They would not give me a price

[99 to Life]

Loving the build and pics. Great info for the LS with OG frame swap. I back the champion rads as well. I'm using a 2 core with Efan. Can't go wrong with them. Key is having a warranty and also the size of the cores, not just the number of cores.

[chev3600]

Iceburgh: thanks, I'm always looking for info on the latest and greatest parts. If you happen to hear back from them, feel free to update us!

[panelrodder81]

Just so happens I'm also running a Champion rad for my truck as well.

-Panelrodder

[dante81_98]

Thanks again for all the great information in this thread. Will keep an eye out for those headers.

[sqrlnts]

I also run the champion here in Phoenix with no issues..yet.

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by panelrodder81

Just so happens I'm also running a Champion rad for my truck as well.

-Panelrodder

Originally Posted by sqrlnts

I also run the champion here in Phoenix with no issues..yet.

Are you guys running a 2, 3, or 4 row radiator? Champion says the 2 row will cool 450 HP and a stock 5.3 is less than that but I feel skeptical.

[sqrlnts]

I believe mine is a two row.

[99 to Life]

I got a two row for a tri 5 belair, which is smaller than the trucks. I keep my 355 cool just fine.

[panelrodder81]

Originally Posted by Root2812

Are you guys running a 2, 3, or 4 row radiator? Champion says the 2 row will cool 450 HP and a stock 5.3 is less than that but I feel skeptical.

I honestly don't recall... but I will check tonight.

-Panelrodder

[Root2812]

Thanks for that info guys. I think I'll go with the 2 row too then. I think the 2 row will be a little thinner than the 3 row and I need all the clearance I can get.

[mg98ta]

Great build. I sent you a pm with some questions on your subframe graft and wheel selection.

[Iceburgh]

Originally Posted by chev3600

Iceburgh: thanks, I'm always looking for info on the latest and greatest parts. If you happen to hear back from them, feel free to update us!

I got the sandersons long tube for alas and mustang II perfect fit and look great. Bottom line hurts a little. Coated they were $650

[edgeleycanuck]

Great work! Would you be able to show/explain your fuel tank,pump,sender configuration?
Thanks for all your postings so far, it is appreciated by many I'm sure!

[chev3600]

I don't have any pics of the sender,pump setup. Essentially, just took the stock jeep wrangler pump(just the actual pump not the mounting) and swapped it for a better one from a BMW. I cut off the stock sender and screwed on the one that came with the autometer gauges.

[mercuryman788]

Hey man, great build. I'm in the same boat with you, I want to be able to sit three and have the 3 point harness too for extra safety. I was going to go with Silverado seats, but they just feel too bulky. I like the seat you got out of the Durango, any idea what year that was from? I was messing around online and see they had a few different style seats over the years and I'd like to get the same as you got since it fit so well. I'm also interested in how you mounted the seats and the seat belt assemblies. No rush since it'll be at least a month till I would be getting one, but could you take some pictures of the mounts for those? Thanks man and keep up the good work.

[chev3600]

Mercuryman, the seats are 2nd row out of a 2002 Durango. I liked the fit especially with the slim back and base. I'm kinda tall. Plus the short headrests can't really been seen through the window, the seats fold flat forward and tumble forward for access to under seat area. Seat belts from same truck. I used instructions from julianos website to mount the upper bolt. The lower is attached to a 1" square tube frame that the seat bolt to. Retractor assembly was mounted in a steel plate box that is bolted into the side of the cab corner pocket.
Oh yeah, best part. The third row is bolted into the bed for tailgating. Folds pretty flat when not in use.
Pics coming...