'67 Stepper "Laymond"

[Number98]

Looking great, good progress!

And uh:

[nlped]

Originally Posted by slowcpe

No more 6 cyl

Attachment 1338517

Whoop whoop

[Todd68Chevy]

Originally Posted by slowcpe

No more 6 cyl

Attachment 1338517

Sorry I did not get to ride along today and check out your project. I needed to go into work and catch up on my paper work. That has not worked out very good either. LOL I looked at a 71 C10 and they guy wanted me to pick it up this morning. My buddy stopped by and showed me all of his treasures he picked up. Thanks.

[slowcpe]

No big deal Todd. Hope he likes it all. I'm happy to have all that out of the garage. And so is Jen you need to buy some rust free 67s as I'm going to need a lot of body parts.

As I'm taking it a part I realize just how rusty the body is. Overall I think it's pretty decent considering I live in the rust belt, but I don't think I'm going to be able to bring myself to put the truck back together in its current shape. Not looking for perfect as the goal for this truck is to be a driver, but no rust and bondo would make me very happy.

Out in the garage today but not a whole lot of work getting done. Been cleaning up the garage from yesterday and spending a lot of time sitting in a comfortable chair in front of the heater, watching football, and doing research on my iPad. I will post pics later when I'm on my computer.

[slowcpe]

Well spoke a little too soon on the rust Pulled up the floor mat and what I thought was good looking metal before turned out to be some kind or insulation. While not horrible it's still more than I thought. Was hoping to not have any floor patches but the driver's side toe panel has about a quarter size hole, passenger side toe panel has a bad patch and more rust on the floor board right at the "seam" where it angles up towards the firewall.

I'm not discouraged as I was expecting some of this stuff. It makes the idea of buying a new cab appealing but where's the fun in that?

[slowcpe]

Now I'm back in the house and on my laptop, here are a few pics from the weekend:

Pic just before the extraction



Engine coming out



Its out



Once finished, I quickly cleaned up the garage and had some friends over.

[slowcpe]

Here are some pics of my findings:

The heater box hid some cancer



Passenger floorboard



Driver's floorboard

[79azc10]

Trucks coming along great. Are you playing cornhole or washews?

[slowcpe]

Thanks. Cornhole

[slowcpe]

Hope everyone had good holidays. Mine was pretty busy with little time for the truck. Did get to spend most of the day today out in the garage for a little therapy, football and maybe a beer or two.

All the rust and stuff I keep finding and the fact that I'm a big fan of doing things right might derail the build timeline. Idecided about a month ago that a mild dropmember and control arms are on order and now may nix the c-notch for a mild rear. I'm fine with the stance of a c-notch and DM with stock fenders but the frame has a little more pitting than I'd like exactly in the area the notch would go. I'm also afraid of wishing I'd have gone lower. I still don't have a huge desire to lay frame and I feel the extreme kit sits too low at ride height for what I want to do with the truck. Plus I still want a somewhat useable bed. I think I can lose 5-6 inches in depth and not be a huge deal. We will see. I'm emailing Dave tomorrow to see my options.

Here's a pic of the pitting in the frame I'm talking about. The rest looks good as I spent some time today carefully inspecting it with a wire brush on the grinder.

[nlped]

Whatever excuse you need... Rear dropmember is a smart move

[Bennett68C10]

^^^^ what he said you won't be disappointed if you do what you want from the start. Take it from me, it's better to do that then change things over and over until you finally do what you want, you'll also save yourself some time on your build doing it right the first time.

[slowcpe]

Well not sure what I want to do. I really like the idea of mild notch but it appears I will have to re-purchase EVERY suspension piece I already have. From reading I've learned a few things I'm not too sure of at this point:

Looks like with the Mild Rear I have to run a 2-piece driveshaft. I already own a TA crossmember for a 1-piece. I know I can sell it along with everything else I own but I like the idea of a 1-piece over 2.

Running the Mild Front DM it appears the steering linkage is a bit cumbersome and would severely limit my options on headers and more than likely no long-tube options.

Plus I think I've read a new steering column is highly-recommended. That's $500-1000 I don't really want to spend. I already own 2 tilt steering columns.

So my options are (unless someone corrects my thinking) are: 1) deal with the above challenges and re-buy EVERYTHING, 2) go Extreme and lay-frame (tempting but afraid it will limit my driving) or 3) keep what I have, go PB control-arms, No-Limit r&p kit, and either save some money (yeah right!) or put it towards other goodies.

Decisions...Decisions

[nlped]

I'm planning to go the same route as your original plan. Just the small 2-piece notch, mild DM, control arms etc. I'm bound an determined to stay the course. Of course I also have complete front & rear extreme DM's too

[slowcpe]

Curious as to why you want to go that route when you have a full DM step?

[nlped]

I have 2 trucks. My gmc should be getting the extremes and Walt will be setup just like your original plan.... But I totally understand the ole Plans Change scenario.

[slowcpe]

No progress on the truck as its been too cold and I'm too cheap to spend a small fortune in kerosene to keep the garage up to temp. I've been doing a lot more research and just about to make a decision on how I'm going to do the front suspension. I've nixed the Mild Rear Notch at I don't feel like re-buying everything, adds way to much money and wait time on the project, and I really dig the stance of Stella.

I'm still torn on the front but pending a response from Rob at No-Limit will help determine which route I go.

Option 1:

PB Mild Dropmember, control arms, and their R&P kit. Really like this idea, like the idea of all new components and LOVE their product and customer service. The downsides are the steering linkage, limits header options (no long-tubes I don't think), have to purchase a different steering column, wait time and of course cost.

Option 2:

Stock crossmember, PBs forward control arms, and No-Limits R&P. Like it for the ability to run long-tubes (I think), simplicity, and cost (save roughly $1500 that can be used towards other parts). I've got an email to Rob seeing his experience with this setup. The two biggest issues I find with going this route is cutting a hole in the frame for the steering shaft and potential clearance issues with the rack, control arms and sway bar.

I've decided to ditch the Torquer V3 cam and go with either a BTR Stage 3 or 4 cam. Seems like a much better option. Working on a deal right now to pick up a set of 243/799 head that I will have milled and cleaned up.

I also picked up this vintage cooler today at a local antique shop. I saw it in a CL add a few weeks ago and finally got a chance swing by. Funny thing is my dad used to call me "Buddy" when I was growing up. Absolutely hated it then but now that I'm older think its kind of cool. Seeing that sealed the deal for me as he's been gone for nearly 9 years.

[nlped]

Totally dig the cooler and the "Buddy" story totally makes it better.

And I say do whichever option floats your boat. Either one is going to make one heck of a better driving/handling truck for sure.

[GAc10boy]

Looks like you've got two pretty good options. I say go option 2 if that gives you the results you want and money leftover to put elsewhere. That's just pure practicality speaking but it sounds like you'll still be happy with the stance.

At the end of the day, do what you need to do. Dig the cooler, too! Funny thing is I call my son buddy on a regular basis. I don't think he likes it either!

[Bennett68C10]

You can still run option 1 with long tubes, there is a guy on here with Kooks TBSS long tubes with a mild dropmember and it fits good. Check out this link. Maybe PM him and see what he thinks.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=514041

What made you ditch the TSP V3, the lift on the intake side is what scared me away from that cam.

Cool looking cooler too.

[slowcpe]

Originally Posted by GAc10boy

Funny thing is I call my son buddy on a regular basis. I don't think he likes it either!

He really won't like it in his teenage years!

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10

You can still run option 1 with long tubes, there is a guy on here with Kooks TBSS long tubes with a mild dropmember and it fits good. Check out this link. Maybe PM him and see what he thinks.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=514041

What made you ditch the TSP V3, the lift on the intake side is what scared me away from that cam.

Of course, the most expensive headers in the world will be the only ones that work Thanks I'll check into some more. Just what I need to do, more reading.

The more I read about the LSK lobes the more skid-dish I become. The cam should make great power and sound killer but I don't feel like changing out $300 valve springs every year or two. I'll make you a good deal on the cam

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by slowcpe

Of course, the most expensive headers in the world will be the only ones that work Thanks I'll check into some more. Just what I need to do, more reading.

The more I read about the LSK lobes the more skid-dish I become. The cam should make great power and sound killer but I don't feel like changing out $300 valve springs every year or two. I'll make you a good deal on the cam

I think I'll pass I read the same thing about the LSK lobes and the valve springs. Just doesnt semm worth it to me. I hear you on the Kooks headers but if they work then maybe some other companies cheaper TBSS headers will work too.

[slowcpe]

Well I finally made a decision!!!! <insert hallelujah.wav file> Well on the front end that is. After serveral messages to way too many people I decided to go with my original decision: full PB Level 1 front. I called Dave and got it on order today. I've been pestering him for over the last year and figured if I didn't go this route I would regret it.

I'm going to keep the Stage 2 rear kit for now and see what I think.

Now I have to figure out what to research next as I've FULLY exhausted this area of the truck. I even did a cost analysis in a spread sheet and when you add it all up its not that much more to with the full PB kit. Plus you don't have to source things out from 10 different vendors and pray it all works together. Not to mention their customer service is second to none.

While getting caught up on pro-touring this morning I ran across a set of wheels I fell in love with. For the heck of it I messaged Boze Forged to get a quote. Well as much as I love them they are a little too rich for my blood. I'd have to sell my boat just to cover tires and wheels.

Unfortunately I doubt you will see these again in my build thread:



Now the wait begins!!!!

[slowcpe]

Started on the c-notches tonight. Would've had this side complete had I not put up the grinder before finding another **** rivet underneath. I lost motivation after that and figured I'd finish tomorrow.

[Bennett68C10]

I think you made the right decision, did you find anymore info on the header issue with the Mild dropmember, I'm going to have to figure this out for mine with the Touring very soon.
Those wheels are sick looking, I like the split 5 spoke design, kind of like my Retros but with an edgier look to them.