1972 Blazer 4WD to 2WD conversion in Texas.

[Frugalmeyer]

Installing fenders, hood and cowl. Getting truck ready for trip to get paint job.

[gringoloco]

Looking good! Why the hummer pan? First I think I've seen someone use one of those.

[Frugalmeyer]

gringoloco

Ground clearance. The hummer pan is a little shorter and depending on what motor/transmission mounts you use can leave the bottom of the pan above the front cross member. Look at the photos in Post #49. Photo number 3 is the stock oil pan and photo number 5 is the hummer pan.

[Frugalmeyer]

Jamming doors, fenders, hood, door jams, cowl and tailgate.

[Frugalmeyer]

Assembly complete, final wetsand and paint.

[Frugalmeyer]

Load up for the trip home, back in the garage.

[gringoloco]

So nice! Must be a great feeling

[Frugalmeyer]

Installing fuel tank, modifying dash harness, and installing LS harness.

[Frugalmeyer]

Sandblast and paint rims, install condenser, headlights, grill shell, new tires, grill insert.

[Frugalmeyer]

Finishing LS harness, dash harness, dakota digital install, install exhaust (will go back when running for fixes), turning on power and working out bugs.

[notsolo]

Your making quick work on this, looks awesome. Curious why you went with original tank? Some nice replacements with pump in the tank. Is this a better way to go with external pump?

[Frugalmeyer]

notsolo

I went back and forth between installing an internal and external pump (using the original style tank). I have not found any original style tanks modified for internal pumps. I hear the internal pump is quieter and being submerged in fuel the pump does not get as hot and lasts longer.


Using the original style tank and modify it to accept an internal pump was an option, but I would of had to cut a hole and modify the tank to accept the aftermarket pump like the attached episode. If I was only installing an LS motor into the Blazer I might of went that route but have been doing everything in just a few months and decided I would try the external pump for now.

http://www.powerblocktv.com/episode/...p#.V7CFbCjytdh

[notsolo]

I hope your out on a shake down run, I am working on rear shock cross member, looks like you bent 2" on either side of the top to get the correct length for yours. Did you add a brace to the bottom?, and move the holes for the shock mounts?....Thanks Ed.

[Frugalmeyer]

notsolo

I took the truck out for my first run a week or so ago and everything went good. I will try to update some pictures this weekend.

I clamped a piece of steel on both sides of an original shock cross member, heated it with a torch and bent them over to fit just inside the frame rails. My notes show my final cross member width is 33-1/4 to match the inside frame width at the shock cross member location. I had to remove the rear most cross member when installing the shock cross member because it was such a tight fit. I hammered the shock cross member in along the frame rail until I got it to the final location. I did not add any brace at the bottom of the cross member. I got lucky that the holes I drilled in the cross member sides were wide enough to just clear the spring mounts that were welded to the outside of the frame. I bolted in a Performance Online shock relocation kit in the "original cross member holes" after removing the rivets for the original shock mounts.

Hope that helped.
Michael

[sambrutay]

15x8 truck rallies and BFG's always look great to me.

[notsolo]

Thanks Michael that is exactly what I needed to know. I may start a revised build thread on mine, I have the body off and I am fixing all the previous mistakes, ( too many to list ). Definitely not as nice as yours. Better plan, Better results...Yours, Not mine ...Cheers... Ed.

[Ken B]

High end work from start to finish, looks awesome!

[Frugalmeyer]

Laying testing seats, seat belts, console and carpet. Detailing bumper hardware and installing front bumper.

[Frugalmeyer]

Fabricate transmission cooler lines, vacuum line and steam vent tube.

[Frugalmeyer]

First road test. No intake, cooling fans, alignment, door latch, etc... So far so good. A little high in the back with 4" lowering springs, so going to order 5" rear lowering springs.

[Frugalmeyer]

sambrutay

I am very happy with the look of the 15x8 truck rallies and 275-60/15's.

[Frugalmeyer]

Ken B

Thanks for the complement. Best I can do from my garage.

[Frugalmeyer]

Getting door parts ready, assembling doors and getting seats ready.

[Frugalmeyer]

Installing rubber seals, and finishing doors.

[Frugalmeyer]

Getting alignment.