No Limit Trailing Arm Rear Suspension

[SCOTI]

Ttt . . ......

[robnolimit]

the single shear mounting was done for a couple of reasons. 1. we wanted the bearing centerline to be on the motion line. 2. Ease of installation. It takes about 80,000 lb load to shear a 5/8" grade 8 bolt. With the support sleeve the rate goes up. So, with an average of 750 lbs per side, it would take a 10G hit to hurt the bolt. Honestly, if you somehow create a 10G load impact while driving a C10, you have a LOT bigger problems that any suspension mount.
As to mounting angle, at ride height it is close to 15*. this lessens the spring and shock rate by appx 7%. So, a 250 lb spring becomes 232.5 lb/in. Hmm, x 3 1/2" of static compression = 813 lbs load rate. Compared with 650 lbs of sprung weight per side, x 125% ratio on the trailing arm = 812.5 lbs static load. That's how we do it. Math baby!

[SCOTI]

Thank you sir.

[legends]

Rob, I recently purchased this kit as well as your C-Notch KIT. First let me say they are very nice pieces! I'm having one issue, Basically my truck was a leaf spring frame. What reference points should I use for the C-Notch and shock mounts? The leaf spring frame does not have the bump stop rivets or some of the other rivets you list to use as reference points. I'm thinking if you can give me a measurement from the rear of the frame rail to the center of the shock mount, or the axle tube center line to the center of the shock mount that would be enough to get me started.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by legends

Rob, I recently purchased this kit as well as your C-Notch KIT. First let me say they are very nice pieces! I'm having one issue, Basically my truck was a leaf spring frame. What reference points should I use for the C-Notch and shock mounts? The leaf spring frame does not have the bump stop rivets or some of the other rivets you list to use as reference points. I'm thinking if you can give me a measurement from the rear of the frame rail to the center of the shock mount, or the axle tube center line to the center of the shock mount that would be enough to get me started.

I wondered about this. I had a swb leaf frame & a coil frame in my possession once upon a time & couldn't remember the bump stops being the same for both. Reference numbers from the frame rail ends & the other way (from the T/A x-member) should help w/accuracy.

[crakarjax]

Aren't there alignment holes in all frames from the factory? If so those could be used. For the notches though, I think it might be best to just see where your axle hits the frame and use that point as a reference.

[chevy72blu]

Originally Posted by legends

Rob, I recently purchased this kit as well as your C-Notch KIT. First let me say they are very nice pieces! I'm having one issue, Basically my truck was a leaf spring frame. What reference points should I use for the C-Notch and shock mounts? The leaf spring frame does not have the bump stop rivets or some of the other rivets you list to use as reference points. I'm thinking if you can give me a measurement from the rear of the frame rail to the center of the shock mount, or the axle tube center line to the center of the shock mount that would be enough to get me started.

Interested in this as well. I read through the whole thread and I'm surprised to see no other mention of using this kit to convert from leafs to trailing arms.

Obviously the spring perches will need to be cut off and re-welded, but I have a dumb question... Does my GM 12 bolt rear need to be trailing arm specific (ie: Panhard bar mount)? I believe the rear is out of a 73-87. Truck is a 72 with a shortened frame (SWB conversion) which will no doubt make things interesting .

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chevy72blu

Interested in this as well. I read through the whole thread and I'm surprised to see no other mention of using this kit to convert from leafs to trailing arms.

Obviously the spring perches will need to be cut off and re-welded, but I have a dumb question... Does my GM 12 bolt rear need to be trailing arm specific (ie: Panhard bar mount)? I believe the rear is out of a 73-87. Truck is a 72 with a shortened frame (SWB conversion) which will no doubt make things interesting .

OE set-ups have short bars w/the PHB mount on the housing. The better 'long' aftermarket set-ups like this one move the mount to the Pass side truck arm @ the back.

[legends]

Just a quick update, Rob provided me with several drawings which provided all the necessary measurements I need to install the C-notch and Trailing arm kit. I hope to continue the installation this weekend.

[chevy72blu]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

OE set-ups have short bars w/the PHB mount on the housing. The better 'long' aftermarket set-ups like this one move the mount to the Pass side truck arm @ the back.

Thanks. It seems like now the decision is between this setup and going 4 link... Really only looking for good ride quality, decent hole shot (though my truck is no longer primarily about going fast in a straight line), and to lower it another 2" or so (total of about 4" of drop).

What would you suggest? Im shying away from the OE style trailing arms (ECE) due to the panhard bar issue. The driverside leaf shackles are bound and only articulate about 1". I'm even considering just replacing bushings, etc and adding some drop shackles and caltracs.

I have access to a full metal shop though I wouldnt trust my own welds on the dragstrip .. could tack things in place and have a guy with a cert finish up for me.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chevy72blu

Thanks. It seems like now the decision is between this setup and going 4 link... Really only looking for good ride quality, decent hole shot (though my truck is no longer primarily about going fast in a straight line), and to lower it another 2" or so (total of about 4" of drop).

What would you suggest? Im shying away from the OE style trailing arms (ECE) due to the panhard bar issue. The driverside leaf shackles are bound and only articulate about 1". I'm even considering just replacing bushings, etc and adding some drop shackles and caltracs.

I have access to a full metal shop though I wouldnt trust my own welds on the dragstrip .. could tack things in place and have a guy with a cert finish up for me.

If you're swapping from leafs to one of these 2 choices (4-bar or T/A), it's a wash if using an aftermarket kit (since they're within a couple hundred bucks of each other). If you're trying to get a better ride on a leaf spring suspended 63-72 & have a small budget, a used T/A set-up can be done fairly cheaply & provide very good results.

[legends]

Does anyone have any pictures of the No Limit C notch in place with the No limit coil over shock mount in place. Wondering how close the front of the notch plate is to the shock mount?

[meenaggie]

They are pretty close on both sides but installed without issue.

[aboyer]

Originally Posted by aboyer

Hey SMKN TA95,

Would you be willing to post where you had these made or information about them. I will we willing to buy two of these for my future build.

I think there are a few people that would be interested in these. Let us know if there are any specs or information out there for these bushings/spacers.

[luckeeD0g]

So, what is the load carrying capacity of the coil-overs? I'd like to still carry stuff in my truck. Maybe a couple of dirt bikes, engines and/or transmissions for other project vehicles. Can I carry up to 1000 lbs using the complete No Limit trailing arm system with coil-overs?

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by luckeeD0g

So, what is the load carrying capacity of the coil-overs? I'd like to still carry stuff in my truck. Maybe a couple of dirt bikes, engines and/or transmissions for other project vehicles. Can I carry up to 1000 lbs using the complete No Limit trailing arm system with coil-overs?

Well, it depends a lot on the spring rate. We like the 250 lb springs for the best ride and handling. With these, you have about 3 to 3 1/2" of compression available at R.H., so you could carry 1000 lbs (500 on each spring) and that would compress the suspension another 2", leaving you 1 1/2" of compression left. - this would be 'outside' of our comfort zone. If you went to a 350 spring, it would ride a little firmer, and only compress about 1.4" from R.H. with 100 lbs.

OR, you could use a 7000 series Shockwave and add air ride, and use the air pressure to vary the spring rate to match the load.

[Cbo]

Any updates on install with aftermarket crossmembers? Also, I'm having a bit of trouble with my install. (I'll post pics when I get them tomm morning)

Everything seems pretty straight forward, but after bolting in my new trailing arms mounts, I can't my trailing arms sandwiched in between the tabs to bolt them in.it almost looks like theyre a quarter inch or so too wide to fit...

[meenaggie]

I will give you my experience and what I did . . . as well as some options I considered. First, my truck is a 1968 Chevy C10 SWB. The previous owner had lowered the truck and installed a ECE (Early Classic Enterprises) trailing arm cross member. I replaced the front and rear suspension with a No Limit Wide Ride IFS and trailing arm setup. At the same time I installed the No Limit rear notch kit.

I think you already understand but allow me to go into the details for others who may read this post. The No Limit trailing arm setup is designed to use the stock trailing arm cross member. The stock trailing arm cross member has angled sections where the trailing attaches that create the angle between the front and rear mounting points. This means the brackets provided by No Limit for the front mount of the trailing arms are STRAIGHT. Most of the aftermarket trailing arm cross members are completely straight across and create the angle in the front mount bracket itself. Meaning the aftermarket brackets are angled and not straight. This becomes an issue as the heavy duty front joint of the No Limit trailing arms is slightly narrower in width and uses a smaller diameter through bolt than stock. Hence you cannot simply bolt the bracket provided by No Limit to your ECE cross member. Nor can you simply bolt the No Limit trailing arm front joint to the ECE bracket.

To solve this issue and retain the ECE cross member I decided to have some bushings machined to account for the differences. (I did not have a stock cross member available and did not want to go source one as I planned on running the exhaust through the cross member.) I have attached several pictures showing how they install and dimensions. I used oiled bronze for the bushing as I was able to start with some flanged bushing from Lowe’s rather than a piece of bar stock. I had a friend do me a favor to get the machining done and do not have personal access to a lathe. So unfortunately I cannot make these for other folks.

If you don’t want to go that route here are some other solutions I considered.

1. Source an OEM trailing cross member and replace the ECE cross member I already had installed. The No Limit brackets will bolt right on (after you remove a bunch of rivets.)

2. Make new brackets the same width and hole size as No Limit but with the angle needed. Basically this is creating a hybrid of the ECE and No Limit bracket. You need some mild fabrication skills including access to a welder and drill (or drill press).

3. Weld the No Limit brackets at an angle to the ECE cross member. You will need to make a wedge and spacer on one side to make this work.
I hope that info helps.

[meenaggie]

More pics showing dimensions of bushings

[meenaggie]

And a couple more pics just because . . .

[meenaggie]

And an example of the stock cross member and ECE cross member so you can get a better understanding of the difference in the way the angle for the trailing arms is created.

[Cbo]

See that o ly part of my problem.i have a stock crossmembers with No Limits brackets bolted in. The new trailing arms from No Limit appears to be too wide to fit in between the bracket in order to be bolted in.

I'm looking at spreading the bracket with a hydraulic spreader,bit I'd like to avoid that if possible.

[drfloyd]

So, No Limit brackets are too narrow for their arms?

[Cbo]

Yes,exactly.

[moregrip]

excellent solution! do you expect those bushings will be a wear item?