Brake Lines... Bend or Pre Bent ???

[bajabob]

Just curious which brake lines everyone is using to replace OEM stuff??? I am looking at SS lines and hardware. I have seen some stuff that a buddy did when he bent his own lines and it kinda of looked like a backyard job
thanks
bob

[mr48chev]

I bend my own but have thrown away my share of mistakes along the way. I've probably got half a dozen tube benders and two sets of double flair tools and still don't have the best of either.

If everything is stock to the truck and in it's original position prebent will probably give you a better look but if you have changed things around that most likely won't work.

[Kim57]

I bent my own but like mr48 says there is a learning curve.
If you take your time you can get some nice looking lines.
If you're going to do your own I would recommend getting good benders and flare tools. I think stainless takes a different flare than regular steel tube. Good luck with what you do.
Kim

[parkwood]

I too bend my own, but like the last two guys have said you will throw away a few getting the hang of it... good benders and flaring tools are a must. The trick is to take a long piece of wire etc. as a coat hanger and use that to mock up your lines with the bends and then copy that with the brake line.
Also working with SS is not like working with steel lines.. SS takes a 37 deg. flaring tool and steel lines use 45 deg. are double flared where SS is single flared but you must use a sleeve and nut..
with a little thought and time you can do a good job..

wayne

[bajabob]

any savings to bending your own, or just the satisfaction of doing your own ???

[longbike]

The stainless is very hard to double flare, but it can be done very easy with this tool I have one at work and flared stainless very easy with it, but I just decided to go with the pre-made kit and the kit was flawless with no problems at all.

http://www.mastercool.com/pages/flaring_tools.html

[OrrieG]

I bent my own using srtandard steel line sections from NAPA, you can run the full length of the truck with only one coupling. First try was crappy then I bought a real tubing bender and it looks like a pro. I was told you needed special flaring tools for stainless and even then it could be a challenge to get them right.

[parkwood]

Originally Posted by bajabob

any savings to bending your own, or just the satisfaction of doing your own ???

Both, if you've moved cross members or motor mounts or anything thats not stock you make it fit and look nice.. not saying that pre bent tube isn't away to do it but you're paying for someone to bend it for you and hope it fits when you get it...

[dwcsr]

Stainless is tuff to work with especially if you are a novice to bending tubing. Nickle/copper line is much easier to work with and a lot more forgiving than stainless and steel.

You can get it on ebay for about $30 / 25 ft.

[jocko]

concur - I've tried both, the stainless steel tended to split when bending the flare. Rather frustrating. Unless you're doing a show truck and you want to polish em, the oem steel will probably out-live you (sadly) when you consider it's probably the first time they've been re-done. If it was good enough for the factory (and, more importantly, if it's easier to bend...) I vote oem steel.

Now, having said that, the ONLY place I could find straight lines that didn't have that idiotic green e-coat on em (like Autozone and Oreillys do) was at Napa and Car Quest.

[solidaxel]

What is wrong with e-cote?
I use it to make paterns, in 6' lengths bends real easy.

[bajabob]

thanks guys for the input, you might have convinced me to give it a try. I installed the new master cylinder w/vacuum assist so I am a little worried that the stock lines will not match up. Looking at tubing benders now....

[jocko]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

What is wrong with e-cote?
I use it to make paterns, in 6' lengths bends real easy.

it's green.

[bajabob]

has anyone used the tube bending/flaring tools from CPP ??? Saw some cool stuff in the catalog, just wondered if its junk or worth the $$$

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by bajabob

has anyone used the tube bending/flaring tools from CPP ??? Saw some cool stuff in the catalog, just wondered if its junk or worth the $$$

The best one I have used so far is a rigid 345 DL http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CGEQ8wIwBQ

Hydraulic flare tools are nice if you do a lot of them but they are very pricey.

[bajabob]

I just pulled the trigger based on comments here and the fact that I hope this is not my last or only project. Thanks for the input. Might have to wrap it up and put under the tree

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/Tools/CPDFTD.htm
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/Tools/TBT90.htm

[parkwood]

Merry Christmas, and you'll love the tool... mine's as not as up to date as your new one but you'll love it..
The only thing i would tell you is try and fine a bender that will bend a little tighter bends... i have the bender you have but also bought one from PureChoice and it's great for the tight bends...

[bajabob]

Parkwood
Do you have a link for them ?? Not familiar with them... thanks

[parkwood]

Originally Posted by bajabob

Parkwood
Do you have a link for them ?? Not familiar with them... thanks

www.purechoicemotorsports.com they have a lot brake stuff..

[Spackle100]

Found this article that is really informative and some great walkthrough tips and tricks. Hope it helps... http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/f...ending_basics/

[Gumby]

lots of threads on the 3rd gen boards with SS and problem leaks. Guess it can be a bear to flare and seal right.

Im going with custome SS covered flex line from Russells instead, no bending needed, ends already pre made, they have assured me there is no difference in operation anymore over using hard lines.

www.russellperformance.com
Russell Performance Plumbing - An Edelbrock Company

[renegade6]

I used stainless on mine. Not the prettiest but, it works. I purchased one of the double flaring tools from Eastwood that mounts in a vice and didn't have one single leak with any of the double flares on mine.

I did a lot of research when I was debating on steel or stainless. One of the things I did find is how you cut stainless makes a difference on how well the flare will work. If you use a tubing cutter it ends up hardening the end and some say the reason for a lot of splits when you double flare it. I used a dremel with a cut-off wheel (low speed) and debured the ends before flaring.

[bajabob]

thanks guys for the input, i stopped by the parts house today and picked up two 5 foot steel sections with fittings for 12.00 $$$ They had a real pretty set with line and multiple fittings for 127.00. The kit looked very complete but I am sure I will need to stumble through this a little bit before I go big !!!!

[bajabob]

Spackle
I checked out that site and will use it as reference for my project,
thanks

[JumboAMONGus]

i bent my own its real easy the bending tools once you try a few and mess up but for the flaring i never made a double flare that hasnt leaked yet ,,lol haha