Z'd Rear Frame

[scum1]

Hey guys im in the process of raising my bed floor and redoing the wood on my 63' swb c10, and i got the sudden itch to go a bit lower while im at it possibly.

i currently have bags in place of coils on the stock trailing arms, a bolt in c-notch, and lowering blocks.

I want to keep the trailing arms, instead of coughing up cash for a four link or the like.

What do you guys think about a z'd rear section such as this..Is this a common way to do it? I would just do a big notch but the trailing arms will bind on the frame.

what does that do to the pinion angle? Id have to z the bumper back down as well correct?

[tinydb84]

I wouldnt say its common but its been done: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=485504

If you have the ability it shouldnt be too hard. You do have to lower the rear for the bumper (or run a roll pan).

No Limit makes a bolt in kit that does a similar thing: http://nolimit.net/tech-center/66-c1...il-kit-1967-72

[scum1]

i decided not to notch the rear half behind the cab, but instead make a set of new "trailing arms" that mount outside the frame rail and attach to the frame and axle. Ill use 1 3/4" round tube either .188 or .250, and attach my bags to those as well..

I'm going to make my own notch, but instead of designing the notch into the curve of the frame, why can't I just make the frame the same width as the widest part before the curve, and extend that to the end. That way i have a straight Notch. I can make new mounts for the bed, bumper, and make new cross members..is there anything I'm missing as far as WHY the frame narrows in the rear? Also the reason i would like to do it this way, is because i can mount my rather large air tank between the rails in the back if it were wider. thats the icing.

as far as time and effort go, whenever i do projects i get my dad over to chill and he loves it, so its a win win.

[andrewmp6]

Tinydb84 there is another option now http://www.azproperformance.com/Chop...-C10-1012.html

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by scum1

i decided not to notch the rear half behind the cab, but instead make a set of new "trailing arms" that mount outside the frame rail and attach to the frame and axle. Ill use 1 3/4" round tube either .188 or .250, and attach my bags to those as well..

I'm going to make my own notch, but instead of designing the notch into the curve of the frame, why can't I just make the frame the same width as the widest part before the curve, and extend that to the end. That way i have a straight Notch. I can make new mounts for the bed, bumper, and make new cross members..is there anything I'm missing as far as WHY the frame narrows in the rear? Also the reason i would like to do it this way, is because i can mount my rather large air tank between the rails in the back if it were wider. thats the icing.

as far as time and effort go, whenever i do projects i get my dad over to chill and he loves it, so its a win win.

If you make new trailing arms and mount them outside of the bed then it becomes a 2 link (and you gain all the associated problems that come with a two link). You can do the same thing (with the tube links) with the original mounts and extend the notch forward to clear the links.

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

Tinydb84 there is another option now http://www.azproperformance.com/Chop...-C10-1012.html

I've seen that. I'm more of a Porterbuilt fan myself. Sometimes I wish I did a kit but for the guys with the ability to weld (and all that other stuff) a backhalf isnt a bad idea.

[andrewmp6]

Honestly i would leave it be or save up to do it right,A 2 link is not the best way to go and has its own problems.Since you can weld have you seen http://www.scottshotrods.com/4-bar-4-link-suspension/ They do offer those frame rails you see in the one picture i forget the price of them.

[scum1]

ya you guys are right. I did my notch, which gave me an extra 4 inches drop..looking at everything i think i would either go three link, or my own trailing arms..

for the trailing arms i would use 1.75 x .120 dom with some spherical rod ends.
but i cant seem to find any tube inserts to weld on for that..i would need a thread pitch of 3/4-16, but it would need to fit the 1.75 x .120 tubings ID..1.51

and it also seems like with tubular arms it would still make contact with the frame. how do the PB arms use the stock geometry and clear the rails to lay out?

there was a member on here that made his own, his instagram was no-rida-wyatt or something like that. his laid frame. i dont wanna eff with the factory angle to the axle ya know.

what do you guys think?

[tinydb84]

My four link bars are .250 wall 1.5 OD with the threads cut into them (no inserts).

You could bend the bars inward initially and then outward once you clear the frame. Might be a bit tough to get the bends right. Not sure if Porterbuilt's arms alone will clear the frame.

Universal link kits are cheap enough if you wanna do it yourself: http://www.azproperformance.com/Air-...nks-Link-Kits/

[andrewmp6]

Look on http://www.swracecars.com/store/view...n=0&PageEnd=19 if they don't have them try emailing them maybe.