Bolt in steering rack

[robnolimit]

You can see the upper shaft connecting to the column and top u-joint.

[robnolimit]

Using factory G.M. lines, we plumbed the power steering hoses.

[rob32472]

Rob, any ideas for a bushing or something on the top side of the frame? Could the bearing be turned over with a spacer so that it is flush with the frame on the top? Maybe it is just me but it looks a little unfinished as it is..... not to mention a great place for trash to settle... give me your thoughts..

[FeNiX]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Next is the spindle modification. Using a 5/8 drill bit, drill out the tie-rod mounting hole. Start from the top side. Try to drill it straight down through the original hole.

Is this safe? What hapens to the the cone shape hole?
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[68GMCCustom]

you're changing the tie rod end type too....so its fine.

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by FeNiX

Is this safe? What hapens to the the cone shape hole?
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Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

you're changing the tie rod end type too....so its fine.

I think Rob's a little light with his pictures on the install in this thread; I think after he drills out the steering arm with a 5/8" drill - he then reams it to the proper size / taper for his kit.

i.e. - when you use a MII or Ford R&P and associated tierod ends - they have a different taper than our trucks do. Not saying this is a MII rack - I'm just expounding on what my research on racks learned me.

[lolife99]

great work.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Scot_Douglas

I think Rob's a little light with his pictures on the install in this thread; I think after he drills out the steering arm with a 5/8" drill - he then reams it to the proper size / taper for his kit.

i.e. - when you use a MII or Ford R&P and associated tierod ends - they have a different taper than our trucks do. Not saying this is a MII rack - I'm just expounding on what my research on racks learned me.

You can see the tie-rod hanging loosely on the spindle in this pic. It looks like a through-bolt with misalignment spacers not unlike the modification required for the Dropmember...

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by rob32472

Rob, any ideas for a bushing or something on the top side of the frame? Could the bearing be turned over with a spacer so that it is flush with the frame on the top? Maybe it is just me but it looks a little unfinished as it is..... not to mention a great place for trash to settle... give me your thoughts..

Turning the bearing over is a no-go. It would raise the second U-joint and cause a bind in the steering angles. I'm sure you could use a cut section of a shock boot to cover the opening. We all thought it looked nice and clean, having the shaft go through the frame with the bearing under it.

[robnolimit]

Easy now, were not done yet. spindle mods and tie rod ends, and alignment are the last bit to go. We will be using a High-Misalignment rod end, so there is no re-tapering of the spindle.

[Scot_Douglas]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

You can see the tie-rod hanging loosely on the spindle in this pic. It looks like a through-bolt with misalignment spacers not unlike the modification required for the Dropmember...

Whoa. Good eye!

[robnolimit]

Here's the last steps. We finally recieved the adjuster sleeves today! The hex shock is threaded with 5/8" x 18 on one side, and 14mm x 1.5 on the other. We then had them heat treated. Tie rod ends are high-mis-alignment 5/8" chromoly.

[robnolimit]

Start by removing the spring clamps on the rack boots

[robnolimit]

Thread the rod end into the adjuster sleeve. Leave approx 1/4" of thread showing, tighten the jam nut - TIGHT!

[robnolimit]

** Thread the adjuster sleeve onto the inner tie-rod end. Leave approx 1" of thread showing. Leave the JAM NUT Loose

[robnolimit]

Bolt the new tie-rod assembly to the bottom of the steering arm. The large U.S.S. washer installs on the bottom, as a saftey stop for the rod end.

[robnolimit]

The Complete Install. Toe adjustment is made between the inner tie-rod end and the adjuster sleeve. Don't forget to put the spring clamp back on for the rack boot. For smooth cruisers, set toe at - 1/8" . For more spirited driving, try 1/8" toe out.

[ebfabman]

Any way to lube those heims? There are heims with zerks. Any reason why you're not using them? Not being negative. Just asking

[robnolimit]

At this time we have'nt found a supplier with that item. - High mis-alignment, chromolly, with a grease zerk. if you know of any, let me know.

[ebfabman]

Give me the size and I'll check it out right away.
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[dougminton]

post #212 said 5/8

[ebfabman]

I pretty much figured 5/8ths. That's what all the racks used on all the race cars we built that used r&p. I got a call in to a supplier right now. It may be the high misalignment won't allow enough material for a zerk. It would be good to be able to keep lube on that joint with all the movement there.
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[PBFAB.COM]

Just my two cents on the greasable rod ends.... I wouldn't recommend using them due to the fact that they are MUCH weaker. The area where the rod end is drilled and tapped for the grease fitting creates a major weak spot. I have seen several rod ends fail due to this. They split and peeled right apart... wouldn't be a fun ride.

A quality rod end like the ones that Rob uses are kevlar injected and will not need to be lubricated.

[rob32472]

Ship them out!!!!!

[tubbedII]

I don't know how much has changed from this production version to the one in the old Joe, but will the production version still work with a pancaked crossmember?