Attempting my first build 72 K5

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

The new tank looks great. What was the finish on it before you painted it?

Thanks TJ. I liked the way color came out on it. It was raw steel. I ordered through Brothers Trucks.

[tjsblazer]

Hey Mike, when you ran your new brake and fuel lines did you have all the frame x-members in or did you put the lines in first and then all the x-members ?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I had all the X-Members in prior to installing the lines. I'm not sure if it matters, but one thing I might be worried about if I installed the lines first is if I accidentally bashed or smashed a line trying to get the X-members in... The Fuel and Brake line run a long the top/bottom of the Transmission X-member if that makes sense.

Check out my pictures before I tore it all down. This is a link to my drop box account with about 41 photos. I made annotation marks what line was what to help make it easier for any to use as reference.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wtwaauas8...Uy2NjZQQa?dl=0

Here are after pics
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hayh08lia...U1vrvpX2a?dl=0

[1972 Jimmy]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I had all the X-Members in prior to installing the lines. I'm not sure if it matters, but one thing I might be worried about if I installed the lines first is if I accidentally bashed or smashed a line trying to get the X-members in... The Fuel and Brake line run a long the top/bottom of the Transmission X-member if that makes sense.

Check out my pictures before I tore it all down. This is a link to my drop box account with about 41 photos. I made annotation marks what line was what to help make it easier for any to use as reference.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/wtwaauas8...Uy2NjZQQa?dl=0

Here are after pics
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hayh08lia...U1vrvpX2a?dl=0

Your build is looking Great! Awesome detail in the pics. This will help me out alot when putting mine back together.
Eric

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thanks Eric.
I'm not sure if this is 100% correct as it came from the factory. I used my old pics to reference putting it all back together. I think 72's might also have a slight difference with the rear brake line compared to the 69-71 models. Plus Jimmy's might be different, too so you might want to look into that. Before you make your final orders/purchases make sure you do just that little extra home work before finalizing your orders so you don't piss any money away.. Ask me how I know lol

[tjsblazer]

Mike, one more question on your fuel tank neck swap. I took my new and old tank to the repair shop to swap necks as you did. The tank is probably from the same manufacturer as yours. It was a galvanized metal. Around the neck area where they had fastened it they had sprayed some grey paint on it.
I guess the new tank has the neck Brazed on where as the originals are just Soldered. The tank shop says they will have to heat the new tank around the braze fairly hot to remove it and are worried about warping. Is this how your tank removed the new neck, just by heating it up to remove the braze? Was there any issues with yours?
Thanks for any insight.

BTW, I followed your steps for fastening the front ball joints and knuckles. All good first time around. Thanks very much.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

Mike, one more question on your fuel tank neck swap. I took my new and old tank to the repair shop to swap necks as you did. The tank is probably from the same manufacturer as yours. It was a galvanized metal. Around the neck area where they had fastened it they had sprayed some grey paint on it.
I guess the new tank has the neck Brazed on where as the originals are just Soldered. The tank shop says they will have to heat the new tank around the braze fairly hot to remove it and are worried about warping. Is this how your tank removed the new neck, just by heating it up to remove the braze? Was there any issues with yours?
Thanks for any insight.

BTW, I followed your steps for fastening the front ball joints and knuckles. All good first time around. Thanks very much.

The guy said he cut the old neck out with a small cutting wheel and same with the new one and then soldered it on the new tank. He didn't have to heat anything up. Then he sealed and lined the tank. Mine didn't have any gray pant on it. The entire tank was raw steel galvanized metal.

Where did you get your tank from?

Glad to hear the ball joint sequenced worked the first time you did it. I wish I could say the same

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Where did you get your tank from?

I got mine from Wes at Classic Heartbeat. Sounds like you had the neck cut off and swapped at the base as opposed to unbolting and removing the entire base. Might be the way to go.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

I got mine from Wes at Classic Heartbeat. Sounds like you had the neck cut off and swapped at the base as opposed to unbolting and removing the entire base. Might be the way to go.

I'll ask him tomorrow if he cut it off at the base to confirm and I'm sure he did because the bolts wouldn't have looked new.

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I'll ask him tomorrow if he cut it off at the base to confirm and I'm sure he did because the bolts wouldn't have looked new.

Thanks, I'd appreciate knowing.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Made some more progress last weekend.
Installed the gas tank.. jeez that thing was PIA just figuring out what parts I needed and costly, too

[Dirt's72]

Looking good! I'll send mine out to you when you're done. Can you weld?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by Dirt's72

Looking good! I'll send mine out to you when you're done. Can you weld?

Thanks! I'm a one man shop.. so It might take a while. I just started welding and here's my first go at it ( don't laugh to hard)

The Passenger side inner fender was rotted pretty bad at the front.. It's literally impossible to find a used replacement in good shape. I bought a driver side and cut the front lip out to replace the front lip on my original one. The caveat is you just cant simply do a straight line cut and swap it because the outer edges and holes are not the same. You have to cut those off, too. Then weld them on the opposite side of replacement piece. You also have to plu he center hole and then drill a new hole about 1/2" to the right in order for it to line up. I don't know if any of this make sense to you, but I can tell you it's very time consuming.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Thanks! I'm a one man shop.. so It might take a while. I just started welding and here's my first go at it ( don't laugh to hard)

The Passenger side inner fender was rotted pretty bad at the front.. It's literally impossible to find a used replacement in good shape. I bought a driver side and cut the front lip out to replace the front lip on my original one. The caveat is you just cant simply do a straight line cut and swap it because the outer edges and holes are not the same. You have to cut those off, too. Then weld them on the opposite side of replacement piece. You also have to plu he center hole and then drill a new hole about 1/2" to the right in order for it to line up. I don't know if any of this make sense to you, but I can tell you it's very time consuming.

Once you grind it down, no one will know. Great work on your build, glad you got past the fuel tank fiasco

Nice KTM

[sockalaminski]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Once you grind it down, no one will know.

Jaros44sr is right. It'll be fine once it's ground clean. Use a hard disc to knock off the high points and a sanding disc to smooth it out.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Am I missing something here?? The bottom of Transmission Tail shaft has two threaded holes.

[sockalaminski]

Nope, you're all good. That's where the mount would be if it was in a 2wd.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Installed the engine yesterday. My dad's friend who is a mechanic came over to oversee and make sure I didn't screw anything up..We got the engine installed in less than 2 hours.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

more pics

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

AND THEN


Wait For it


Wait for it




The pass side header is just barely touching the shackle.. I'll have to see if my original shackles are not as thick as the ORD ones. Would anyone know if a muffler shop could bend the header just enough to clear the shackle?

[DeadheadNM]

#1 - Motor looks bad a$$

#2 - Bummer about the header

[IronCanine]

Mike...that looks awesome. I hope you're gonna install 6-point harnesses, because that thing looks like it's screaming just sitting there cold. Great job!!

[sockalaminski]

Tough break on the header touching. That's why I hate headers so much. The drive train looks fantastic though. I think your quality blows mine away.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thanks guys.. I'm happy with the look of the motor and all, but the headers are killing me and putting me behind schedule.. I need to have everything back together before we're ready to put the body back on the frame which is in about 6 weeks.

I can almost guarantee these headers are for 2wd only, even though it says 2wd and 4wd right here - http://www.dougthorley.com/prod-9.htm

When I ordered them I thought these were for 4WD specific. If I had read that it said 2wd or 4wd I think I would have held off and not pulled the trigger so quick.

I'm going to call them on Monday to find a resolution to this because A. I didn't modify my engine or transmission or height of the truck. It's all stock.

If they would just angle the end of the tube a 1/4" to the left it would be fine, but I guess that's to much for them to understand.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Other option I was thinking is cutting about 1-2" off the end of the collector and welding a new collector piece on there to make it clear