Help with shims and panel alignment

[C.I.Blazer]

Now that I got my 71 running and the bad door hinge fixed, I started thinking about diving into rust repair for my winter project. Before I did this I wanted to replace the body mounts (from Wes) so I had a good foundation to start with. The tops is on and, while the outer rockers have a lot of rust, the rocker (torsion) boxes are rusty but pretty solid.

Yesterday I got all the old bolts and rubber off and new bolts and top bushings in. I am not sure how to proceed with regards to shimming and how much of the door gaps and panel alignment are due to the shims versus door adjustment, versus front fender adjustment. Nothing on this truck was in good shape when I started so I am really starting from scratch.

When I pulled the old mounts off I had three of the square shims in position 1 (A-Pillar) on the drivers side and one in position 1 on the passenger side. I started with one shim in P1 and P2 on both sides. With this configuration, I could not close the passenger side door as the rear of it was jacked up too high. I moved the passenger P1 shim to the P2 location (now I had two here). The door will now close, but the gaps are off. Drivers side door opens and closes as well as it did before. It is pinching the fender, but it has always done this.

Soooo, my questions are:

1) How much shimming to I do at this stage? At what point to I try adjusting doors, fenders, etc. Or do I just kind of do them all together.

2) In the P2 position, one shim was too low and two made it too high. Should I buy a bunch of these shims from LMC to get more fine tuning in my shimming?

https://www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-che...lignment-shims

3) How tight do i tighten the nuts on all of these body mounts? How much do I want to squish the bushings?

4) Does anyone use washers under the head of the carriage bolts or do they just sit directly on the bed floor?

Sorry for the long-winded post. Did my best to search for answers but could not find anything. Appreciate the help.