Project find -- Thoughts before I pull the trigger? Chevy 3600

[gigamanx]

Hey all,
Found an old farm truck that I'd like to take a look at. Originally looking for a 3100 but my research tells me a 3600 is the same thing with beefier undercarriage. Clean title and seems to be in running condition. From the CL pictures, looks like I'd need a new bed and running boards from LMC so ad maybe $1500 and I've got myself a good starter for a future rod? I'm new to this so hoping the forum can pick up on any major issues up front

http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/cto/5750477580.html

$2500 seems pretty decent compared to other prices I've seen for crappier trucks.

TIA

[mongocanfly]

Cab on the 3100 3600 and 3800 are idintical...hate to disappoint you but your not going to get a complete new bed and running boards and all the hardware for $1500...add it up..left and right bedsides, bed front, tailgate, left and right fenders, left and right running boards, bed floor and strips,,tons of shipping charges..thats just the big stuff, and you'll still need all the brackets and hardware.. $2500 may not be a bad price but if the truck is in Pa. I would take a long hard look at the rust potential...

[gigamanx]

Hoping the rust stayed out of this one if its a hay truck or similar from a barn. Eventually, it'll get an S10 swap, but I gotta start somewhere. I'll check for rust otherwise I'll never get to the fun stuff. Maybe I can grab some used fenders, bed parts over the winter and put it all together. I think someone was selling a left and right fender for $250. The two or three full body trucks I've found in my local (PA) area are all close to $5000. They all need pretty major body work.

e.g.
http://lancaster.craigslist.org/cto/5763216255.html

[Advanced Design]

If the cab and fenders are solid it might be worth the price. If they are pretty rusty it would probably be good to keep looking. It is easier to drive a distance to get a good one than it is to properly repair rust. Those Arizona guys are fortunate.

Like you said, it could be a good starting point. Then find fenders later. Maybe buy a new bed from Mar-k. Or you could get lucky and find a nice bed locally.

Which ever way you go, have fun.

[mr48chev]

If the floors are solid and it has a clear title I'd say it's worth the money even if you just want to haul mulch for your wife's garden projects in it.

The plan might just be to work on the bad spots on the cab and that looks like cab corners and the spot on the bottom of the door post. and drive it and use it as you clean it up if it runs and drives reasonably well. That way you can get your chassis and have it all ready, get the bed and rear fenders and do a lot of prep work without having the truck tore down and spread all over the garage for a couple of years. Having tags on and having it running even if it never goes past the end of the block means that you can fire it up and move it every so often to keep the local bunch that sticks their nose in your business when you have an old rig sitting in the yard too.

Unless It just flat has a bunch of hidden rust and a lot of rusted out panels I'd say it's an honest deal.

[73kay]

Just a thought, but those beds are pretty much identical from at least 47-87. Mounts, side tops, fenders etc vary a bit but you can always use some of those even from s square body (73-87) for pennies on the dollar. Tail gate and front panel for sure. Again just thinking outside the box for you

[joedoh]

I feel like I said this before but, a 3/4 has the eaton 8 lug rear end with 4.56 or more likely 5.16 gears. it has a 4 spd but the added gear is a granny first, with those rear gears that thing will crawl up a wall at idle. a 3/4 will also have 3/4 ton worth of springs in it and will ride like a buckboard (a wagon with steel ringed wooden wheels and no springs) unless you have some weight in it.

so, until you change the axle or trans or both, top speed: 45mph. until you change the springs or resign yourself to hauling a half rick of firewood everywhere, bouncy ride. If that doesnt scare you off and the floors are decent, that would look cool in the driveway.

one more thing, the 3/4 ton were usually longbed (that one is, based on the wheelbase), so make sure you find the right bed length or move the axle up ( or move it to the trash and get a 3.07 axle from a later truck!)

[iowaboynca]

Originally Posted by joedoh

ride like a buckboard (a wagon with steel ringed wooden wheels and no springs)...

C'mon now, we're all old enought to have watched Lil' House on the Prairie

but wait now that i think about it, that had springs...my bad

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by joedoh

I feel like I said this before but, a 3/4 has the eaton 8 lug rear end with 4.56 or more likely 5.16 gears. it has a 4 spd but the added gear is a granny first. ..

so, until you change the axle or trans or both, top speed: 45mph.

I didn't think of gear ratios. Yeah that could be a stopper if I spend just as much time trying to get it on the road as I would repairing a truck with a full body and the correct axle ratio. This forum is gold!!

[gigamanx]

May go a different route entirely...This guy wants way too much, but aside from the cab floor I don't see anywhere else that needs repairs on the body.

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/5787346832.html

[OrrieG]

pic looks like rust in the lower fender, lower cowl and fender and cab corner, showing thru older repaint. So add in another $500 or so for patch panels and three digit hours for repair. Check the floors, door bottoms and rest of lower firewall and cowl for more rust. also the upper A pillars and lower back window area.

I drove my truck with a granny 4 speed and 4.56 rear for about 4 years, 45 was top speed. Since you are planning on a chassis swap why spend the money on incomplete rusty sheet metal with a drive train and chassis you are going to toss and no one else while probably want?

Shipping for a good rust free truck from SW, CA or even high desert in CO, ID or Eastern Oregon WA will be less then the cost of the patch panels and bed you will need.

[gigamanx]

I agree with your input and have kind of moved away from it already. Between the body parts needed and the mechanical that the owner said it still needs, I'm better off continuing the search. I have found a contender in Baltimore in the above link. Just got new tires and I am told it rolls and the engine turns, but it hasn't run in a while. No interior and the cab needs a good bit of TLC. I like the patina though! Worried about the chassis. I didn't think to check Colorado. I have friends out there who could take a look at a truck for me.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

pic looks like rust in the lower fender, lower cowl and fender and cab corner, showing thru older repaint. So add in another $500 or so for patch panels and three digit hours for repair. Check the floors, door bottoms and rest of lower firewall and cowl for more rust. also the upper A pillars and lower back window area.

I drove my truck with a granny 4 speed and 4.56 rear for about 4 years, 45 was top speed. Since you are planning on a chassis swap why spend the money on incomplete rusty sheet metal with a drive train and chassis you are going to toss and no one else while probably want?

Shipping for a good rust free truck from SW, CA or even high desert in CO, ID or Eastern Oregon WA will be less then the cost of the patch panels and bed you will need.

I agree with this, a truck with less rust just needs a motor to run. a rusty truck you will have hundreds of hours in fixing, and its not the fun work like installing a rear axle or motor, its dirty, loud, and you have to blow everything apart to fix it. and disassembly almost always makes you sad because after the "while I am in there" and "well might as well because this is nver coming apart again", you will have even more time in it.

[gigamanx]

Next contender with pics...





Can't seem to find much under $5000 that doesn't at least have a little body work needed.

[mongocanfly]

Gigimax if your familiar with searchtempest (craigslist search) and you have friends in colo.. just put their zipcode in the search and whatever radius you want and see what pops up..

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Gigimax if your familiar with searchtempest (craigslist search) and you have friends in colo.. just put their zipcode in the search and whatever radius you want and see what pops up..

Using all the tools i can find. Nothing like seeing your investment in person though. I'm still hoping a PA truck shows up. Will be seeing the second prospect Saturday.

[67GMCkid]

York and Harrisburg are only 20 miles apart but it always amazes me how something posted in HBG CL may not show up in York CL be sure to check all the surrounding areas. CV & Reading come up with some interesting stuff as well..

[73kay]

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/5798840326.html here is one outta Texas for $4500

I know it's a drive for you, but the trucks out west are just in better shape. I got my truck for 1100 quick off craigslist in Austin. granted it needed a title which was $300 but sheet metal was great. I wish you would of posted sooner I just sold a roller for $2000

Anyways if you find something out here, let me know I can check it out for you. You got members all over the country I'm sure that can check out a truck for you.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by 73kay

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/5798840326.html here is one outta Texas for $4500

I know it's a drive for you, but the trucks out west are just in better shape. I got my truck for 1100 quick off craigslist in Austin. granted it needed a title which was $300 but sheet metal was great. I wish you would of posted sooner I just sold a roller for $2000

Anyways if you find something out here, let me know I can check it out for you. You got members all over the country I'm sure that can check out a truck for you.

Wow that's real nice! I pmed the seller to see what's up. I did a few Texas searches and this was by far the most reasonably priced truck for condition. The rest were plenty questionable. I don't mind buying without seeing it after looking at about 30 trucks online already in varying states of neglect i have a feel for what to look for. The biggest thing against me at the moment is simply patience. I'm ready to get started!

[73kay]

Ya here is the order I browse: (I work night shift so I see some good ones)

Waco - always a few good ones
Austin - pretty good
Killeen - There is where I live and there are some surprises
Dallas - Feel like they tend to be overpriced and not as good a shape

OKC - smaller city, a lot of people don't think of

I also search "Chevy truck", chevy 3100, or just plain browse for sale.

Idk if you have a trailer, but definitely "the hunt " and the roadtrip are definitely memorable, especially if you take the risk and buy a runner to drive home, lol anyways best of luck and if you find a gem, let us know and someone is probably close to take a look at it for you and give you some honest opinions.

[gigamanx]

Ok chatted with the seller and went over the pictures with a fine tooth comb. I see some cracked glass, rust under the cab and around the cab floor. I would need to factor in about $800 for shipping from Durant, OK to Hershey, PA I'm guessing (I have no idea). I also have the other truck in Baltimore that I'm going to drive and see this weekend.

My easy math in my head is that one truck is pretty solid but will be close if not right on $5000 after shipping. Truck #2 is closer and is $200 for shipping. I think I could get it for under $3000 but it needs a lot more work in patch panels and rust removal. Needs a whole floor!

Decisions decisions...

Anyone live near Durant, OK? I have a friend 2hrs away but she knows nothing about cars.

[mongocanfly]

Unless you like fixing rust its pretty much a no-brainer...you'll spend a lot of time and money (maybe more) just to get the cheaper truck up to the same level the more expensive one is..with the 5000 truck you'd already be that much futher along..

[joedoh]

It makes me think that telling someone about rust repair might be like a hot pot on a stove. telling someone its hot doesnt mean anything till they touch it.

if you dont mind replacing the floor, get the closer one, you might feel the extra 2k saved is worth it by the time you are done. be sure to cut back all the rust though, clean metal doesnt weld to brown metal very well. thats where I got in deep, cutting back and the small patch turned into most of the floor, toe board, and kicks. then I pulled the windshield and most of the drivers upper frame came with it. ugh. I need a drink.

[gigamanx]

In final negotiations on the Texas truck. Have a friend going up to finalize Saturday morning. So, I was listening Less rust will make a happier tinkerer.

[Jemezcrusher]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Cab on the 3100 3600 and 3800 are idintical...hate to disappoint you but your not going to get a complete new bed and running boards and all the hardware for $1500...add it up..left and right bedsides, bed front, tailgate, left and right fenders, left and right running boards, bed floor and strips,,tons of shipping charges..thats just the big stuff, and you'll still need all the brackets and hardware.. $2500 may not be a bad price but if the truck is in Pa. I would take a long hard look at the rust potential...

Mar-K Bed. 1500. Wood kit 400-600. Fenders 350.00 each running boards 200 each

For new stuff, 3K plus, unless. You can find a good used one. I couldn't