Remove Parking Brake Cables??

[tdave00]

I am sure this is really simple, but I had a terrible time with this the other night, and need some info. I got a new 5 lug rearend and I was trying to remove the parking brake cables from the 6 lug rearend that's on the truck now. I can't seem to get enough slack to pull them through that hole on the clip (you know where they come together on the trailing arms). Can someone please tell me what to do. I know it's simple.

[Critter]

I recently removed my rear axle from my blazer. I left the cables hooked to the brake drum internals, but I easily disconnected them from the main cable that runs behind my transmission. I think if you disconnected this end first, you would have enough slack to remove them from the brake shoe hardware...just a thought.

[tdave00]

Thanks. I'll give that a go.

[cparman]

look carefully where the cable goes thru the backing plate. There is a cone ( ? ) shaped clip that is about 1/2 inch tall and has 6 ( i think ) legs on it. 3 of them will be spread out larger than the hole. What I did yesterday on a 69 Olds ( same ) is to pull on the cable from the back side of the backing plate, and take a flat blade srcewdriver and find each of the 3 legs and pry on them. when I got one to release, I would tilt the cable to keep it from springing back in place and move on to the next. I PROMISE this will try your patience. I have done this a bunch of times, and still have a bad thought or two before I am done

[PanelDeland]

So what you need is a small piece of tubing.It needs to be about the size of the hole in the backing plate.Or just a tad smaller.Push it up over the cable and the little plastic clips.Then the clips will be depressed.You can then just pull the cable thru.

[68K30]

Try pushing a 1/2" box end wrench over the retainer clip on the backing plate to compress the three tabs, it works!

Good Luck
Bill

[my67chevytruck]

Originally Posted by tdave00

I can't seem to get enough slack to pull them through that hole on the clip (you know where they come together on the trailing arms). Can someone please tell me what to do. I know it's simple.

I think Dave is referring to the C-clip style connectors that connect the front and rear cable together.

As critter stated, by the transmission there is an adjustment linkage, you cant loosen this or completely remove allowing the cable to have enough slack to be able to get the rear end cable throught the C-clip connector to be able to remove.

We did this a couple months back when switching from 6-lug to 5-lug..

good luck....

[tdave00]

Originally Posted by my67chevytruck

I think Dave is referring to the C-clip style connectors that connect the front and rear cable together.

As critter stated, by the transmission there is an adjustment linkage, you cant loosen this or completely remove allowing the cable to have enough slack to be able to get the rear end cable throught the C-clip connector to be able to remove.

We did this a couple months back when switching from 6-lug to 5-lug..

good luck....

Thanks. Sounds like the info I needed!

[my67chevytruck]

Dave, let me know if you have ?'s or need pictures. we are still in the frame stage no body on at this time.....

[my67chevytruck]

ok, things slowed down at work. so i snapped a couple of pictures. The 1st pic is the parking brake adjuster, this can be loosened or removed to allow enough slack to remove the C-clip that connect the two cables.

[gcburdic]

This diagram may help too???...It's for 67/68 ebrake setup...

[tdave00]

Thanks for the visual guys. I'll have a chance to get back to the garage today/tomorrow. I should have it off in no time. Thanks for the pics and info.

[my67chevytruck]

My pleasure.....

[Swedchevy67]

I switch from manuel gear to 350 automatic on my 67 truck. I also removed the old parking cables underneath. My question is: Can I use the same system as it was, or do I need to get another parking brake system underneath?
Get a little confused when I watch LMC instructions for new cables..http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/865w/0152.jpg
There are several notes on the bottom on the page.

[OregonNed]

There really is a lot there to decipher. Thats a good diagram, though. I need to look at mine closer and see how to go about repairing mine. It is good all the way to the back, and it looks like I would just need section "5" on mine and whatever hardware is needed. When we did the brakes a couple of years ago, we discovered that the cable was shredded at the brake shoes and no longer connected. I suppose the previous owner never bothered to fix it.

[Swedchevy67]

Originally Posted by OregonNed

There really is a lot there to decipher. Thats a good diagram, though. I need to look at mine closer and see how to go about repairing mine. It is good all the way to the back, and it looks like I would just need section "5" on mine and whatever hardware is needed. When we did the brakes a couple of years ago, we discovered that the cable was shredded at the brake shoes and no longer connected. I suppose the previous owner never bothered to fix it.

So you don't think I need to bother the comment on the bottom of the page?

[midniteblues]

Old thread but I'll chuck a tidbit out for everyone.

Those pesky fingered retainers that hold the cables into the backing plates on the axle or up in the frame just in front of the cable adjuster.

I use a small worm gear hose clamp and snug it just enough so it flattens the fingers to the cable just enough to pull it through the plate or frame.
The holes are usually big enough that it only takes a little pressure from the hose clamp to get the fingers started through and a slight tug from the other side of the plate or frame that usually slides the hose clamp rite off the fingers as your tugging.

Works like a charm everytime.

[jocko]

I've wrestled with exactly what you're talking about - that is a great idea, thanks.

[midniteblues]

Originally Posted by jocko

I've wrestled with exactly what you're talking about - that is a great idea, thanks.

I'm sure a bunch of us have gotten a few gray hairs from these fingers.

Just had thought, I wonder how one of those newer fuel line disconnect tools would work on them.