LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**kev2809** · 10-29-2009, 06:52 AM

well that's good to know..I live in texas so no harsh elements but it does stay outside. I will probably find a spot to shoot something in there once I do my inside tubs, I have to cut the floor out anyways. I was under the impression por 15 was a must for this stuff. thanks for the info

Rokcrln · 10-29-2009, 10:12 AM

Por 15 is a good product but not a must for anything. It does work great if you have an area that is rusted and you don't want to fix or clean it before covering say like a light rust on the floor boards or under the dash were you will not see it or UV's will not get to it. For areas that are clean metal I like to just use a good metal prep or epoxy paint to cover these areas. You would not put por 15 on say the top of your roof or hood, Why? Because it is good clean metal and you will be using quality paints and sealers to keep rust from starting. If it is already started then that is another story, you need to have the area blasted so their is no longer rust or use a converter hopping it will slow or stop the rust problem.

Now were I used the converter it was not to slow or stop rust because it was already good clean metal but the converters still give a god protection over bare metal and still allow welding to be done in most cases. Before you just start painting with hopes of welding over it at a later date do samples. I took about 20 1"x6" strips of 19ga metal and 5 different products and coated 1 with just the strait product, then one with a combo of products and made sure I labeled each one. Then once everything dried for the recommended time I spot welded then together with 2 spot welds per piece and after they cooled I would cut them between the 2 welds and break then apart to see what the results were. The first thing I looked for was penetration next was the burn area around the weld and last was the durability of the paint left around the burn area.

I have also used this eastwoods kit before on builds were the owner did not want to start cutting areas open and do it right. It is also a good way to go if your truck is all original and not really in need of repair or already built and painted but you want a bit more piece of mind. With this kit you can get above the windshield, down the A-pillars, into the rockers and so on.

Yes this is a bit over kill but it is info I will be using later down the road so it was worth the time I spent doing it and if it helps others keep their vehicles on the road a bit longer than great.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

67ChevyRedneck · 10-29-2009, 10:33 AM

If I ever win the lottery, I'm going to ship my truck to you (don't hold your breath though

)

Looking forward to following along on this as well

Rokcrln · 10-29-2009, 04:23 PM

Fill the filler hole! The best way I found over time to do this is to cut out the gas filler hole lip and make the hole larger. This way you can hammer and dolly to a nice finish. The problem is this area of the cab is a compound curve so it gets a bit tricky. What I do is start off with a gauge that follows the curve in two direction @ 90* to each other. Then I do a quick rough in with the planishing hammer before going to the wheel and the shrinker to finish it off. Once my profile gauges match the curve but in reverse (gauges were made on the passenger side but the patch is for the drivers side) I then try the fit. Once the entire panel fits as well as this one did then it is time to cut my patch and fit it to the cab. After it is fit with as minimal gas as possible I start to tig it in place. For my tig wire on sheet metal like this I use the solid core wire from my mig welder because it comes in .023 and tig wire only comes as small as .030 and when you are hammer welding it their is a big difference in the two sizes.

After it is al welded in place I start to hammer finish to the shape I want before hitting it with a DA to check the surface for slight imperfections. Then on to the next patch.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

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mcbassin · 10-29-2009, 06:11 PM

Super job on the gas tank filler hole! It looks like you could almost fill it smooth with epoxy primer! I like to use that mig wire too for fine welding with the tig. Keep it up!

VA72C10 · 10-29-2009, 08:39 PM

Looks great...but have you seen the infanti $10 patch from ebay? He has the stake pocket, marker light, door latch and lock, and firewall patches as well....fits absolutely perfect as well and I know you had to spend more than $10 worth of your time working on that

Rokcrln · 10-29-2009, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Looks great...but have you seen the infanti $10 patch from ebay? He has the stake pocket, marker light, door latch and lock, and firewall patches as well....fits absolutely perfect as well and I know you had to spend more than $10 worth of your time working on that

Yes I have seen his patches but their are a few things I don't like about doing it that way. First is the patch fits the opening great but the contour is off a bit and that would mean filler. Also since it fits into the fuel filler opening with the lip intact you can not hammer finish it or work out any distortion that will occur from the welding process. I cut the opening larger and flush fit everything so it could be hammer finished once welded. Now for 95% of my customers the Ebay patch would be fine with a swipe of filler to finish it out. But for the other 5% that are highly allergic to any kind of filler this is the only way to go

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Rokcrln · 10-30-2009, 04:36 PM

Before lunch pic's! I started on the fire wall this morning and wanted to share the progress so far. I have filled most of the holes with the same method I mentioned before by making small plugs and welding them in for a finished look on the front and back of the firewall. We are leaving the brakes, steering and harness mounts as well as the E-brake cable but I made a bracket to mount the E-brake pedal from the inside so as not to see the bolts and nuts. I had to shorten the bracket about 1/4" for everything to stay lined up correctly. Once all the holes are filled, welded and hammer finished then I will put in the patch for the A/C location but until then it is great access for working.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

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SouthCountyChevy · 10-30-2009, 07:14 PM

oh man, i cant wait to see how this turns out..great looking work!

stueber68 · 10-30-2009, 09:16 PM

What do you plan on doing for an accelerator? Really nice work sir!

Rokcrln · 10-30-2009, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stueber68

What do you plan on doing for an accelerator? Really nice work sir!

It will be the 71-72 cable style.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

gcburdic · 11-01-2009, 10:06 PM

Always cool to watch you work Kevin....subscribed!

PHAT TONY · 11-02-2009, 01:18 AM

This looks good, as well as the background decorations in the pics.

Rokcrln · 11-03-2009, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PHAT TONY

This looks good, as well as the background decorations in the pics.

Too what are you referring?

Well my spot weld tongs showed up last night so back at it today!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

72BlckButy · 11-03-2009, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PHAT TONY

This looks good, as well as the background decorations in the pics.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Too what are you referring?

Possibly the mustard bottle in post #29?

Nice work Kevin, I really like the tutorial on the fuel filler filler... did that make sense?

Rokcrln · 11-03-2009, 04:39 PM

Well the new tongs for my spot welder worked great!! I pre coated the areas to be welded with a weld through (can on left) primmer, let it dry for about 1 hour (can said 30 min) then started the fun. I would hate to be the guy who try's to remove these 50 years from now. I will have 3 plug welds on the front section of the rocker were it wraps around the lower A pillar and that is it.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[IMG]

[/IMG]

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**71blksuper4x4** · 11-03-2009, 07:15 PM

Hey Kevin, are the spot welders hard to use??? I take it you drill a hole in the rocker and put the tongs to the back side of the rock and the top side correct?? What brand is your spot welder? Do you think a Harbor Freight one would be even worth the money for a novice user? Thanks and once again it looks better than factory. Thanks Trevor

Rokcrln · 11-03-2009, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71blksuper4x4

Hey Kevin, are the spot welders hard to use??? I take it you drill a hole in the rocker and put the tongs to the back side of the rock and the top side correct?? What brand is your spot welder? Do you think a Harbor Freight one would be even worth the money for a novice user? Thanks and once again it looks better than factory. Thanks Trevor

If you look in the first pic above you will see the spot welder and with the new tongs (ones in the pic) they can reach under and around the bottom of the rocker and up and over the top to get the spot welds. Their is no drilling at all that was needed. I would not recommend wasting your money on a spot welder unless you already have a Mig and Tig welder and want to get rid of extra cash. I bought mine for a business venture I am doing were it needs to be spot welded instead of plug welded like I usually do for this work. I wanted to play with it a bit so I used it here just to show what can be done. But to tell you the truth I spent more on the spot welder and then on a $120 set of extra tongs then I will make replacing these rockers and A-pillars

Also I was running out of tools to buy

If memory serves they are Miller or at-least the tongs are made for a miller, I forget.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Rokcrln · 11-03-2009, 08:44 PM

Here are a few pics of the drivers side as well as rocker gap pics.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[IMG]

[/IMG]

[IMG]

[/IMG]

my67chevytruck · 11-03-2009, 09:17 PM

looking good!

mcbassin · 11-03-2009, 10:59 PM

The spotwelds look good! I think your on to something.

*Puropedo* · 11-04-2009, 12:37 AM

Nice work! Thanks for all the pics. I have a question..Does your spot welder run on 110 or 220 Volts? It seems to work purty nice!

Rokcrln · 11-04-2009, 12:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Puropedo

Nice work! Thanks for all the pics. I have a question..Does your spot welder run on 110 or 220 Volts? It seems to work purty nice!

twotwentyvee

Kevin
LFD Inc.

*Puropedo* · 11-04-2009, 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

twotwentyvee

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Yep, had to be a 220, them energy bills must be nice too huh

Rokcrln · 11-04-2009, 01:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Puropedo

Yep, had to be a 220, them energy bills must be nice too huh

You know for the most part 220 is cheaper to run than 110 for most equipment. When the second story goes on my shop I plan on a nice photovoltaic system going in.

Kevin
LFD inc.

10-29-2009, 06:52 AM	#26
kev2809 low n' slo Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: rosenberg, texas Posts: 5,134	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" well that's good to know..I live in texas so no harsh elements but it does stay outside. I will probably find a spot to shoot something in there once I do my inside tubs, I have to cut the floor out anyways. I was under the impression por 15 was a must for this stuff. thanks for the info __________________ 67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____\|__\|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,\|_O _______ O_]

10-29-2009, 10:12 AM	#27
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" Por 15 is a good product but not a must for anything. It does work great if you have an area that is rusted and you don't want to fix or clean it before covering say like a light rust on the floor boards or under the dash were you will not see it or UV's will not get to it. For areas that are clean metal I like to just use a good metal prep or epoxy paint to cover these areas. You would not put por 15 on say the top of your roof or hood, Why? Because it is good clean metal and you will be using quality paints and sealers to keep rust from starting. If it is already started then that is another story, you need to have the area blasted so their is no longer rust or use a converter hopping it will slow or stop the rust problem. Now were I used the converter it was not to slow or stop rust because it was already good clean metal but the converters still give a god protection over bare metal and still allow welding to be done in most cases. Before you just start painting with hopes of welding over it at a later date do samples. I took about 20 1"x6" strips of 19ga metal and 5 different products and coated 1 with just the strait product, then one with a combo of products and made sure I labeled each one. Then once everything dried for the recommended time I spot welded then together with 2 spot welds per piece and after they cooled I would cut them between the 2 welds and break then apart to see what the results were. The first thing I looked for was penetration next was the burn area around the weld and last was the durability of the paint left around the burn area. I have also used this eastwoods kit before on builds were the owner did not want to start cutting areas open and do it right. It is also a good way to go if your truck is all original and not really in need of repair or already built and painted but you want a bit more piece of mind. With this kit you can get above the windshield, down the A-pillars, into the rockers and so on. Yes this is a bit over kill but it is info I will be using later down the road so it was worth the time I spent doing it and if it helps others keep their vehicles on the road a bit longer than great. Kevin LFD Inc. Last edited by Rokcrln; 10-29-2009 at 10:22 AM.

10-29-2009, 10:33 AM	#28
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" If I ever win the lottery, I'm going to ship my truck to you (don't hold your breath though ) Looking forward to following along on this as well __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications!

10-29-2009, 06:11 PM	#30
mcbassin Still Learning Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Central Oklahoma Posts: 10,108	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" Super job on the gas tank filler hole! It looks like you could almost fill it smooth with epoxy primer! I like to use that mig wire too for fine welding with the tig. Keep it up! __________________ Mike "69 Short Wide" My Project 86 Silverado Landen's Project Instagram: @mcbassin My Website C/10 Club Oklahoma Facebook Group

10-29-2009, 08:39 PM	#31
VA72C10 VA72C10 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Midlothian, VA Posts: 25,269	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" Looks great...but have you seen the infanti $10 patch from ebay? He has the stake pocket, marker light, door latch and lock, and firewall patches as well....fits absolutely perfect as well and I know you had to spend more than $10 worth of your time working on that __________________ Looking for a 67-72 swb or blazer project in or around VA.

10-29-2009, 04:23 PM	#29
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" Fill the filler hole! The best way I found over time to do this is to cut out the gas filler hole lip and make the hole larger. This way you can hammer and dolly to a nice finish. The problem is this area of the cab is a compound curve so it gets a bit tricky. What I do is start off with a gauge that follows the curve in two direction @ 90* to each other. Then I do a quick rough in with the planishing hammer before going to the wheel and the shrinker to finish it off. Once my profile gauges match the curve but in reverse (gauges were made on the passenger side but the patch is for the drivers side) I then try the fit. Once the entire panel fits as well as this one did then it is time to cut my patch and fit it to the cab. After it is fit with as minimal gas as possible I start to tig it in place. For my tig wire on sheet metal like this I use the solid core wire from my mig welder because it comes in .023 and tig wire only comes as small as .030 and when you are hammer welding it their is a big difference in the two sizes. After it is al welded in place I start to hammer finish to the shape I want before hitting it with a DA to check the surface for slight imperfections. Then on to the next patch. Kevin LFD Inc. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

10-30-2009, 04:36 PM	#33
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" Before lunch pic's! I started on the fire wall this morning and wanted to share the progress so far. I have filled most of the holes with the same method I mentioned before by making small plugs and welding them in for a finished look on the front and back of the firewall. We are leaving the brakes, steering and harness mounts as well as the E-brake cable but I made a bracket to mount the E-brake pedal from the inside so as not to see the bolts and nuts. I had to shorten the bracket about 1/4" for everything to stay lined up correctly. Once all the holes are filled, welded and hammer finished then I will put in the patch for the A/C location but until then it is great access for working. Kevin LFD Inc. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

10-30-2009, 07:14 PM	#34
SouthCountyChevy Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Davidsonville, Md Posts: 4	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" oh man, i cant wait to see how this turns out..great looking work!

10-30-2009, 09:16 PM	#35
stueber68 1968 C20 Vortec Beast Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: STILLWATER,OKLAHOMA Posts: 483	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" What do you plan on doing for an accelerator? Really nice work sir! __________________ Ugly or not it still kicks a**!

11-01-2009, 10:06 PM	#37
gcburdic Restoration Virgin! Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Huntersville, NC Posts: 8,298	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" Always cool to watch you work Kevin....subscribed! __________________ Geoff with a G 1968 Chevy C10 SWB The Mistress 1972 Custom Deluxe C20 Suburban A Suburban Named Isabella 1966 Ford Mustang Mama's High School Graduation Present

11-02-2009, 01:18 AM	#38
PHAT TONY Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Red Deer ab canada Posts: 1,250	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" This looks good, as well as the background decorations in the pics.

11-03-2009, 04:39 PM	#41
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" Well the new tongs for my spot welder worked great!! I pre coated the areas to be welded with a weld through (can on left) primmer, let it dry for about 1 hour (can said 30 min) then started the fun. I would hate to be the guy who try's to remove these 50 years from now. I will have 3 plug welds on the front section of the rocker were it wraps around the lower A pillar and that is it. Kevin LFD Inc. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] Last edited by Rokcrln; 11-03-2009 at 04:40 PM.

11-03-2009, 07:15 PM	#42
71blksuper4x4 SWB 4x4 Collector Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Osage City, KS Posts: 5,149	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" Hey Kevin, are the spot welders hard to use??? I take it you drill a hole in the rocker and put the tongs to the back side of the rock and the top side correct?? What brand is your spot welder? Do you think a Harbor Freight one would be even worth the money for a novice user? Thanks and once again it looks better than factory. Thanks Trevor __________________ TREVOR 1970 CST swb 4x4 (speedwarning,cruise,tilt,tach,8track, original red shoulder belts,tow hooks) 1972 Jimmy (soon to be Hickey cloned) 1971 Cheyenne Super 4x4 swb (tilt,tach,buckets, original blue shoulder belts,am/fm,cruise,tow hooks, dealer 8 track) 1972 Cheyenne Super K20 4x4 Custom Camper (tilt, tach, am/fm, tow hooks, bed toolbox, aux gas tank 1972 Cheyenne Super Crew Cab K30 4x4 Duramax, Allison, np205, buckets, tow hooks (CURRENT PROJECT) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624819 1989 V3500 Crew Cab (454tbi, NV4500, np205) 1970 Chevelle SS (LS5 454,th400,8track,buckets,tach) :2004 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon (daily driver) WTB: 1968-70 Cruise Control Lever

11-03-2009, 08:44 PM	#44
Rokcrln Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Winters Ca. 95694 Posts: 4,843	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" Here are a few pics of the drivers side as well as rocker gap pics. Kevin LFD Inc. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

11-03-2009, 09:17 PM	#45
my67chevytruck Under Construction Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Midlothian,TX (DFW) Posts: 4,555	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" looking good! __________________ Heath subscribe to the board here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=157669 FAQ how to's 1956 Chevy Apache 1967 C10 SWB FleetSide (under construction) 1969 K10 SWB FleetSide (Future Build) 1972 C10 SWB Stepside (Future Build) 56 chevy truck : http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2955823/1 67 truck build: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=281357/1 69 k10: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=389470



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11-03-2009, 10:59 PM	#46
mcbassin Still Learning Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Central Oklahoma Posts: 10,108	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" The spotwelds look good! I think your on to something. __________________ Mike "69 Short Wide" My Project 86 Silverado Landen's Project Instagram: @mcbassin My Website C/10 Club Oklahoma Facebook Group

11-04-2009, 12:37 AM	#47
Puropedo Account Suspended Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Prunedale California Posts: 782	Re: LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock" Nice work! Thanks for all the pics. I have a question..Does your spot welder run on 110 or 220 Volts? It seems to work purty nice!

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