6 Lug Rotors... Can't find them locally

[mmmBoost]

I have a friend that doesn't like to buy online and he wants to get new rotors to replace his current disk brake conversion from the previous owner of which the parts origin are unknown. Does anyone know a part number for 6 lug front rotors from like napa or some other parts store? Or are they only available from CPP and our other Amazing online parts providers? Any help is much appreciated.

[Longhorn Man]

they were not stock on anything, aftermarket (and expensive) only.
This is why I usually vote for a 5 lug swap. When the company that makes the 6 lut rotors goes under, then you'll have to do it then anyways.

[cheyenne shortstep]

Once again I agree with Longhorn Man, I always use OEM vs aftermarket. Everyone says the kits are easier because they come with everything and you don't have to mix balljoints, steering parts, or brake lines. I have done countless OEM 5 lug/8lug conversions and a few kits, I have always had problems at some point with kits whereas the OE swaps are a breeze. And replacement parts will always be available at any parts store/wrecking yard.

[mmmBoost]

I'm guessing that the parts on his truck are oem. Just because everything is still stock height and he's had the truck for probably 10yrs

[lolife99]

You can either install 73-80 HD 5-lug rotors (1-1/4" wide version),... or buy another set from ECE, CPP, or POL.
All online companies.

Can you just have the ones on the truck "turned" at your local parts store?
What's actually wrong with them?

[Longhorn Man]

ride height has nothing to do with kit verses stock parts. You could buy a kit with all pieces (stock or dropped) or you can get 71/72 or 73 - 87 factory parts, and then spend an arm and a leg for 6 lug rotors. Either way, you have expensive rotors that you have to order and wait on.

[mmmBoost]

Yeah I'll pass the info along to my friend. I'm glad I just swapped my front end over from my old 76 thats 5 lug, so much easier.

[The Big Green]

I went to 6lug because wheels are easily had and there's more bs options. 5lug is a dead bolt pattern and wheels are being made for the 6x5.5 everyday. People will disagree but if I didn't swap to 6 then I wouldn't have the wheels I do, and I love my 24's!


They are aftermarket, if you think they will go under then stock up on them lol, simple as that. Mines a trailer queen.
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[Tx Firefighter]

I don't sweat much the future availability of the rotors from aftermarket. There's many trucks out there with the same rotors on them for the last 35 years. How often do you tear up rotors and need to replace them ? Not very often for me.

Cheyenne Shortstep, you spoke of having had difficulty with kits in the past. I've done a good number of the conversions using the ECE kit and never, ever had any issues at all. Their kit includes every single thing you need but wheel bearing grease and a bottle of brake fluid. No mods, no muss, no fuss. Literally, remove drum brakes, install ECE disc brakes in a couple of hours.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by mmmBoost

Yeah I'll pass the info along to my friend. I'm glad I just swapped my front end over from my old 76 thats 5 lug, so much easier.

I don't understand how this is "so much easier"?
The rotor itself is the only part that is different.
Most aftermarket 6-lug rotors are $85-$90 each.
Good 5-lug Wagner rotors here locally are $55-$60 each.
So for $30 each you get a 6-lug rotor that GM never made,... that allows you to run the wheel that you want.
I've seen people pay that much or more for wheel spacers,... just so they can have a certain wheel.

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I don't sweat much the future availability of the rotors from aftermarket. There's many trucks out there with the same rotors on them for the last 35 years. How often do you tear up rotors and need to replace them ? Not very often for me.

Cheyenne Shortstep, you spoke of having had difficulty with kits in the past. I've done a good number of the conversions using the ECE kit and never, ever had any issues at all. Their kit includes every single thing you need but wheel bearing grease and a bottle of brake fluid. No mods, no muss, no fuss. Literally, remove drum brakes, install ECE disc brakes in a couple of hours.

x2
I agree 100%.

[Hottrucks]

check the disc from a 92... 2500 with a GVW under 7300 let me know the part # so I can write it down or put it in my build.....kinda like using the monroe 5758 shock for lowered trucks I just can't rememer all these goof parts #s but heres the link to Kool trailing arm deals

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRAIL...-/120676793916

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

check the disc from a 92... 2500 with a GVW under 7300 let me know the part # so I can write it down or put it in my build.....kinda like using the monroe 5758 shock for lowered trucks I just can't rememer all these goof parts #s

1990-1994 C2500 light duty 6-lug rotors.

AutoZone - Duralast part #5596 ~$75
CSK O's - BrakeBest part #56915RGS ~$67
NAPA - Premium part #NB 4886915 ~$80

Best thing is no shipping cost on about 60 pounds of steel to go this route since you can get them locally. If you are lucky you can get a good used set cheap. I picked up the spindles assembled with rotors, calipers, pads & hoses for less than $60 complete in great shape.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

1990-1994 C2500 light duty 6-lug rotors.

AutoZone - Duralast part #5596 ~$75
CSK O's - BrakeBest part #56915RGS ~$67
NAPA - Premium part #NB 4886915 ~$80

Best thing is no shipping cost on about 60 pounds of steel to go this route since you can get them locally. If you are lucky you can get a good used set cheap. I picked up the spindles assembled with rotors, calipers, pads & hoses for less than $60 complete in great shape.

You still have to swap the lower a-arm for a C20 a-arm, so you will have the correct lower balljoint hole diameter.
Still have to replace the upper and lower balljoints with 88-98 ball joints.
Still have to change the outer tie rod end to a 88-98 version, and use some type of tie rod sleeve to connect to your original inner tie rod.

I just don't see this as a cheaper alternative.
(just my opinion)

Aftermarket rotors like ECE sells require nothing but a rotor change.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by lolife99

You still have to swap the lower a-arm for a C20 a-arm, so you will have the correct lower balljoint hole diameter.
Still have to replace the upper and lower balljoints with 88-98 ball joints.
Still have to change the outer tie rod end to a 88-98 version, and use some type of tie rod sleeve to connect to your original inner tie rod.

I just don't see this as a cheaper alternative.
(just my opinion)

Aftermarket rotors like ECE sells require nothing but a rotor change.

If you have disc brake spindles already and all good front end parts it does make sense to use the aftermarket rotors.

Picking up some 67-70 vintage 3/4-ton lower A-arms is still on my list. I need lower ball joints so the $25 for a set of decent used lower A-arms doesn't add much there.

I already need ball joints & tie rods so no big deal there. Prices for either vintage parts are pretty close.

The Moog #ES2020RLT inner tie rod will adapt the old center link to the newer C2500 LD outer tie rods with some minor trimming to eliminate a little excess thread length.

Not counting the front end parts I already needed I will have less than $100 into my 6-lug C2500 disc brake swap. If I count the front end parts I will have right at $300 into it including having my used rotors turned too.

You can get drop spindles in 2" and 3" for the C2500 LD too so that doesn't limit your options either.

I just think that for someone with very limited funds or someone who needs all the front end parts anyway the C2500 LD parts are a less expensive option.

[lolife99]

We'll just agree,... to disagree.

I haven't looked,... but I'll be you an ice cold beverage of your choice,... that the 88-98 C2500 drop spindles are at least $100 higher than a 67-87 2wd drop spindle.
(Summit had CPP 1/2-ton drop spindles for $209 a while back).

Plus I think the geometry of the 88-98 spindle has to be different, and an issue when using them with 67-87 a-arms.

I'm one to always rebuild the front suspension components when I install drop spindles on the 40+ year old trucks.
So a lowering job up front is never cheap for me.
Like SCOTI said,... the '87 trucks are now 24 years old.
So all "cheap swaps" really need to have the components swapped out for new.
(and how many 88-98 trucks have less than 150k miles on them?)

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by lolife99

We'll just agree,... to disagree.

I haven't looked,... but I'll be you an ice cold beverage of your choice,... that the 88-98 C2500 drop spindles are at least $100 higher than a 67-87 2wd drop spindle.
(Summit had CPP 1/2-ton drop spindles for $209 a while back).

Plus I think the geometry of the 88-98 spindle has to be different, and an issue when using them with 67-87 a-arms.

I just checked on the drop spindles for the C2500 before I posted. 2" are $190 / pair. I think you owe me a drink

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DJM-DS2056-2/

I was concerned about the geometry too. I will take some measurements on both spindles and see how they compare.

My other option is going to be slip on rotors over the drum brake hubs like C3 Vette's and newer vehicles use if the geometry is too far off for my liking.

There are a few GM slip on 6-lug rotors to choose from. Just need to set things up and take some measurements.

[Hottrucks]

Hmmmmm I'm working on a 5 lug western drop spindle change to 6 lug....I will post part #'s soon...( Napa) basicly it will a remove the old disc and lide the new one one

[Bus Ted Knuckle]

Those light duty 3/4 ton 6 lug rotors must be used with a sealed bearing hub and cannot be used on our trucks. I know...I tried.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

I just checked on the drop spindles for the C2500 before I posted. 2" are $190 / pair. I think you owe me a drink

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DJM-DS2056-2/

I was concerned about the geometry too. I will take some measurements on both spindles and see how they compare.

My other option is going to be slip on rotors over the drum brake hubs like C3 Vette's and newer vehicles use if the geometry is too far off for my liking.

There are a few GM slip on 6-lug rotors to choose from. Just need to set things up and take some measurements.

PM me your name and mailing address and I will send your drink of choice in the mail.
I pay up all bets.
The spindle numbers don't concern me as much as the control arm lengths and tie rod location between the two body styles.
Let me know what beverage I owe you!

You "schooled me" on the light duty C2500 6-lug rotors and spindles.
(The spindles are actually just C1500 1/2 ton spindles)
I owe you a drink.
Just let me know.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by lolife99

The spindle numbers don't concern me as much as the control arm lengths and tie rod location between the two body styles.

Don't worry about the drink. It was all in good fun.

Swapping to taller B-body spindles on 64-72 Chevelle's fixes some of their problems so if the C1500/C2500 spindles are taller it might be an improvement for the 67-72 trucks as well since the suspension geometry was designed in the same time frame as the early A-body spindles were.

Once I get the drivetrain & nose back in my C-10 I can pull the C2500 spindles off and take some comparison measurements of the two designs to see where we are at.

[lolife99]

I'll be interested to see what you find out.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I'll be interested to see what you find out.

I couldn't wait so I went out and took some quick measurements of the stock 67 C-10 spindles and the 93 C2500 LD 6-lug spindles I have.

Looks like the C2500 spindles will be like a 1" drop spindle and a 1-5/8" upper ball joint extension all in one.

The steering arm is in the same position relative to the lower ball joint location but it is 5/16" shorter than the C-10 part. No big deal if you have power steering or skinny front tires. It is right at 5% shorter than stock so the steering effort will be a little greater. It will also have the effect of making your steering ratio tighter as less steering input will move the tires further. The big problem is that the tie rod comes in from the bottom on the C2500 part vs. from the top on the C-10 part. This will put some extra angle into the tie rods. Not sure how it will effect the steering. It's not enough of an angle to cause any binding that I can see.

The outer tie rod mounting point on the steering arm is about 1" further outboard toward the wheel vs. the C-10 spindle. This is bound to have a positive impact upon the front end geometry as the tie rod arc is longer which will reduce bump steer while cornering.

In all I think this could be a viable conversion with more than just the off the shelf disc brake upgrade going for it.

I wish I had access to some suspension geometry software to scientifically analyze the changes. Maybe somebody else has the software and can run the numbers.

67 C-10 spindle:
7-7/8" tall
6-9/16" steering arm length in plane with ball joints
tie rod mount point on steering arm is 2" above lower ball joint
spindle CL is 2" above lower ball joint

93 C2500 LD 6-lug spindle
9-1/2" tall
6-1/4" steering arm length 1" outboard of ball joint plane
tie rod mount point on steering arm is 2" above lower ball joint
spindle CL is 3" above lower ball joint

I could always machine the tie rod mounting point to attach from the opposite direction if the geometry change turns out to be a problem but that is a lot of work. It would require a tapered reamer and a custom built hardened tapered sleeve or welding up the incorrect taper and starting fresh. I would be more inclined to work out a slip on rotor package for the stock spindles & bearing hubs instead.

Another option would be to find a different pitman arm that puts the arm lower than stock and relocate the idler arm lower to match.

[lolife99]

Great info.
Have you looked at NoLimit Engineerings rack steering option.
With their rack set-up,... the tie rod needs to be installed from the bottom side.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=441047
They use a heim joint to make it work (see picture in post# 216).

I wonder if the 88-98 spindle would allow you to use a stock tie rod end?

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Great info.
Have you looked at NoLimit Engineerings rack steering option.
With their rack set-up,... the tie rod needs to be installed from the bottom side.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=441047
They use a heim joint to make it work (see picture in post# 216).

I wonder if the 88-98 spindle would allow you to use a stock tie rod end?

It probably would work. Worst thing you might have to do is use a conversion type tie rod sleeve if the threads are mismatched or track down a different outer tie rod with the correct threads and matching taper angle.

The rod end option is viable for the regular steering system too not just the rack conversion. A nice male rod end, some grease seals to keep it clean and it would live quite happily. It would be a little short so something would have to be worked out there. A hex bar stock adjuster of the right length would be a simple solution and could be made to the correct threads for what ever tie rod & rod end you wanted to use.

I have run rod end trailing arms, panhard bars, A-arms and Cal-Trac bars on the street for years with no issues other than a little noise as long as you can keep them clean. The add-on grease seals you can retrofit over the outside of a rod end work pretty well for this.

[68 TT]

I have the 5/8" fine thread taps in RH & LH threads and have made my own tie rod adjusters before that held up well to heavy use on the street and the track. I even have the 5/8" rod ends on hand. I just don't have access to a lathe any longer so getting them drilled & tapped true would be a chore.

I have a couple blank unfinished adjusters left over that were the right size for my Camaro. I will see if they are the right length to work. If off the shelf aftermarket adjusters would work that would be great.