Frame modification questions

[Choclabnut]

I'm getting ready to have my frame sandblasted and painted very soon, but I thought I would ask a couple questions first...

Here are a couple things that I know I'm going to be doing later in the build,

1) relocate the fuel tank to the back. I've already removed the crossmember that will be in the way. Is there anything that I should consider for modifications in this area or anywhere else along the frame rails that may have a negative effect on the paint?

2) Lower the stance. I'm using the original crossmember that supports the drive shaft, and where the trailing arms attach and was wondering if it would be wise to add clearance for exhaust in this area? I don't want to see any of the exhaust when I'm finished so I'll want to keep it as high as possible inside the frame...
Is this possible without running the pipe through this member?

Again I'm trying to reduce the need to cut on the frame after it's cleaned and painted.
I'm not "C" notching the frame because I'm not dropping it so much that it's necessary.
Panhard bar relocation...
Shock relocation...
I understand that all this is directly associated to how far I drop the truck, so at what point will it be necessary to start doing these things...
4" 6" drop?
Is there something else that I might want to consider before we start spraying paint?

Thanks in advance

[HO455]

Just for perspective here is a photo of my Burban's exhaust dumps. (PO installed) If you notice the end of the pipe is ground off from dragging. My Burban is bagged with no C-notch or dropped spindles. In the back ground you can see the pieces of tubing I installed in the cross member so I can run the exhaust on out the rear. This will prevent any further dragging of the exhaust on street transitions or speed bumps. If you have a short bed you may not have this problem. Hope this helps.

[LockDoc]

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A couple of things to think about. Where is the fill neck on the tank you will be using? That may affect the frame. Some builders cut holes in the trailing arm cross member to run the exhaust through to keep it up higher. Here is a picture. I think these are 4" with a 2 1/2 in exhaust They need to have a piece of 3/16 wall x 1/2" slice of tubing welded to the inside of the hole.

LockDoc

[MySons68C20]

Locdoc has a better pic of the crossmember mod but I am doing the same as you. No c notch with a 2.5" drop spindle in the front and a 4" shorter coil in the rear. (all ECE stuff) Remove the stock rear shock mounts and buy an adjustable panhard bar.

[GR8-68]

I do not see any way you could not see the exhaust unless it run through the cross member, if you look in the above pics anything below the trailing arm cross member is going to be visible, unless you are standing right up against the truck. If you have not blasted or painted the frame yet why not do it now ?

[Choclabnut]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

I do not see any way you could not see the exhaust unless it run through the cross member, if you look in the above pics anything below the trailing arm cross member is going to be visible, unless you are standing right up against the truck. If you have not blasted or painted the frame yet why not do it now ?

A good point! That's the reason why we ask all these silly questions

[Choclabnut]

AWESOME pictures!! Did you need to buy the shock mount relocating kit for your build?

[Choclabnut]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

I do not see any way you could not see the exhaust unless it run through the cross member, if you look in the above pics anything below the trailing arm cross member is going to be visible, unless you are standing right up against the truck. If you have not blasted or painted the frame yet why not do it now ?

A good point! That's the reason why we ask all these silly questions

[midniteblues]

There is a few small things too consider.

If your gonna run headers make sure they fit notching a frame for a tube after paint sucks.

If your useing a manual trans linkage be sure too the frame mount positioned correctly.

Running lines and drilling the holes for mounting the lines (fuel,trans cooler,brake)and other things like exhaust hangers
I know this is nit pic but the more coverage the better(rear mounted tank).

It wouldnt hurt too take the time now too figure in your grounds and tape them off.


When I did mine I had ALL the hard parts laid out ahead of time too be done all at the same time, all the Bumper brackets,trans, motor,trail arm c members, spare tire carrier , shock mounts top & bottom,clutch linkage(or auto),
Sway bar & frame mount,control arms,spindles,bed sills,brake backing plates, steering center link& intermediate shaft, bed support rods,e brake cable connectors, jack,Jack mount&tools,I taped up my uninstalled finished rear axle.

There is other items that can benifit from the same paint color,
License plate box, rad support,head lite buckets,hood hinges, grill support brackets, and latch,booster-master supports,inner wheel wells (don't forget the support thingy on the dr side inner well).
Battery tray,washer bottle bracket.

Just too name a few things.
I realize everyone does things differently and a bunch of those items you may want a differnt sheen, paint or powder on.
But it helps too have a list of a few peices that can be sprayed at the same time too save time and $ by not doing the same color over and over but a few of these parts would really benifit from a good frame paint.

[Choclabnut]

Originally Posted by midniteblues

There is a few small things too consider.

If your gonna run headers make sure they fit notching a frame for a tube after paint sucks.

If your useing a manual trans linkage be sure too the frame mount positioned correctly.

Running lines and drilling the holes for mounting the lines (fuel,trans cooler,brake)and other things like exhaust hangers
I know this is nit pic but the more coverage the better(rear mounted tank).

It wouldnt hurt too take the time now too figure in your grounds and tape them off.


When I did mine I had ALL the hard parts laid out ahead of time too be done all at the same time, all the Bumper brackets,trans, motor,trail arm c members, spare tire carrier , shock mounts top & bottom,clutch linkage(or auto),
Sway bar & frame mount,control arms,spindles,bed sills,brake backing plates, steering center link& intermediate shaft, bed support rods,e brake cable connectors, jack,Jack mount&tools,I taped up my uninstalled finished rear axle.

There is other items that can benifit from the same paint color,
License plate box, rad support,head lite buckets,hood hinges, grill support brackets, and latch,booster-master supports,inner wheel wells (don't forget the support thingy on the dr side inner well).
Battery tray,washer bottle bracket.

Just too name a few things.
I realize everyone does things differently and a bunch of those items you may want a differnt sheen, paint or powder on.
But it helps too have a list of a few peices that can be sprayed at the same time too save time and $ by not doing the same color over and over but a few of these parts would really benifit from a good frame paint.

Wow! Very good list to consider!!!

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by Choclabnut

AWESOME pictures!! Did you need to buy the shock mount relocating kit for your build?

Yes, I bought those from Early Classic Enterprises too.
Drilling the old rivets out is easy just make sure you use a sharp 1/8"
bit for a pilot hole and finish with the larger one then wack the rivet
head with a chisel bam!

Referring to Midnite blues post above I used a Hedman "Hedder" mid length and didn't need to notch the frame.
The only thing is I have to run the shorty Accel plugs to clear the header.