My 87 SWB

[dropd80s]

I thought I would start a build thread for my current project before it changes again!
Sorry some of the pics are terrible quality, had a bad camera on my phone through some of the process!

I started a build thread on my 76 K5 but I ended up buying a few other trucks and the focus for the K5 shifted from just getting it on the road to have something to drive to a proper build with a new chassis for 24x15s etc. This left me with a set of 22” bonspeeds and a narrowed rear end for them that would need a new home.

Here's the thread on my K5 and a pic.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=559900


Enter the 87.

I found this truck on CL for a decent price. Nice, decently straight, rust free, original paint 87. TBI 350 and 700r4 still intact, the truck ran great, AC worked. The truck looks great in pics and is honestly a 20 footer. There’s not one panel that isn’t dented or scratched, but it’s all one color so it made its way home with me.
The guy I bought it from had it a few months, purchased from the original owner, cleaned up a few items, removed the fender emblems and tailgate band and lowered the truck a little and put a fresh set of tires on her.

[dropd80s]

Heated springs and shackles just weren’t my style, so I first threw on a set of Chassis Tech 2.5” spindles and cut full coil off a stock set of springs I had lying around. The spring perches and shock mounts were long gone off the narrowed 12 bolt I had, so I cut off all the 4link brackets and welded on new perches on the underside of the axle for a flip kit and added a set of Thor Bros shock tabs. I removed one leaf on each side (both had one broken each) replaced the drop shackles for stock and bolted up the billets.
They are 22x8.5 and 22x10 with 245/35 and 295/30, I think. Not sure on the front BS, the rears are maxed out at 4” with 6” lip. Rear end has been shortened 2” per side, 3.73s and a Detroit Locker.


Despite the drop being estimated at 3.5/5 I didn’t like the idea of the cheap spindles and the OE cut coils rode like crap. Plus, the truck still sat a little high in the front. I swapped out the spindles for a pair of much higher quality McGauphy’s 2.5” spindles and a set of CPP 1” springs, new bearings and pads etc. I found part numbers for generic shocks available at O’reilly’s from this site, which have worked out ok. This corrected the stance and improved the ride quality tremendously, even though the drop SHOULD have been the same at 3.5”. Got it aligned and started driving it!

I added a new sport bumper and a tailgate band that was in the same shape the rest of the truck was in so it didn’t look too out of place.

[dropd80s]

Now I had a LM7 5.3, 4L60E, cam, convertor and vette servo that I had purchased for the K5 also that was tempting me big time! The truck ran great, AC worked! I made a promise to myself not to touch the TBI motor until it gave me problems. I added a magnaflow muffler and hoped that would hold me over….















NOPE!




I pulled the OE motor and trans, cleaned up a little and started prepping the 5.3 to install. I followed glock35ipsc’s thread on Fred religiously.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ighlight=glock
Anything and everything you need to know is available in this thread. I built my own adapter plates and used the LM7 manifolds. I built my own harness and modded my DBW pedal to use the lower portion of the stock pedal just like Fred.

Motor/trans in.


CTS-V pan clearance.

[dropd80s]

I used a fuse block I found at O’Reilly’s and installed it in a project box from Radio Shack to clean it up some and add a little corrosion protection from the elements.



Bought a cheap parts store cold air intake. Also I used a stand alone IAT sensor that I mounted in the intake tube and deleted the stock MAF/IAT since my tune would be SD and it cleans up the front of the motor a little more.

[dropd80s]

Short idle clip

I hope this works

[dropd80s]

Next I remembered that I had all the parts on the shelf for captainfab’s rear disc conversion that I had bought for the K5 also. So on it went.


I did a lot of research on the rear discs. I ended up going with a late 70s vette MC that has bleeders on the unit itself. I also attempted to gut the stock combination valve with no success. No matter what I tried I could not get the rear safety switch not to trip when bleeding the system. So I reinstalled the “guts” and attempted to re-bleed the system. I still do not have a very good pedal, and associate that to not getting a good bench bleed on the MC, but that’s yet to be sorted out. If I don’t pump the brakes a few times it will trip the light on and will have to give them a good stomp to reset. I’m sure it’s not a major issue I just haven’t had the initiative to get covered in brake fluid again, lol.

[dropd80s]

Thats pretty much where I'm at now. i have a recovered dash pad to install and a set of buckets and console from a burb I'd like to put in. New carpet etc.

I also bought this


Project GMC with a full Porterbuilt frame that will eventually find its way under the 87. Money and time permitting! Let me know what you think!

[dropd80s]

I have decided to build a power bleeder to try and sort out my soft brake pedal. Once I get all the air out of the system I will try and detirmine what mods to do to the combination valve to maximize the performance of the brake system. From all I have read I think bypassing all the features in the valve except the distribution aspect may be the way to go. I may wait until I get the Porterbuilt frame sorted out and run all new lines that "T" the front together and send the rear line straight to the back, then add a proportioning valve in the rear line if I get some premature rear brake lock up.