Paint vs stain

[kingsolver72]

I’ve been busy trying to build a shed when I’m not working my regular job.
I’m at the point I need to pick a color and whether I should paint or stain. I’m leaning towards staining. I thought about using Ready Seal. Anyone have experience with this product? I’m open to advice on paint or stain.
Temperatures been getting in the mid 50s and suppose to get up to 60 in a couple of days. Should I wait for warmer weather? I can always toss a tarp on the build till spring. I used T1-11 siding. I thought I’d wait to cut out the doors and window.
Thanks for any advice.

[weasel29gm]

Good oil based enamel last for years.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I am with the guy above.

Although you can stain, and spray with tung oil every other year..

Paint pigments have better UV protection vs staining.

[MJN]

If you decide to use stain I have had success with Wolman F&P stain. It comes in several colors- the darker would have better UV protection. It says to reapply every three years. I use it on my deck and porches and holds up well.
https://www.rustoleum.com/en/product...ervative-stain
PPG (Sikkens) ProLuxe log and siding stain is also a good one. Just my $.02

[special-K]

I would paint the T1-11 because it needs a good seal. I wouldn't use oil. Latex has come a really long way and won't dry out and peel the way oil can. I would go ahead and get it coated well with Kilz2. That primer is like a coat of paint, even casts a bit of sheen. It's real important to get those grove edges coated well to seal. That is where T1-11 fails. Also really really important to get that bottom edge sealed well. That is the number 1 place the sheathing will fail.

I've cut out the bottom foot or so of a lot of sheds with T1-11 due to rotted bottoms. Water splashes up and that's where the water that gets into the groove edges ends up. Just splashing up on the face of it does it no good. I'd spread some gravel around so you don't get dirt splashing up that helps hold moisture.

I like Sherwin-Williams Superpaint. I know they sell what they call even better (more expensive) paint, but I've been using the Superpaint for years with great results. It ain't cheap either. Tell them you're a contractor and you need a better price. Even if you have flooring in your business name, let them know your business has diversified since the recession, or just over the years. Those guys are salesman and if they know that will make the sale... You could always mention your regular painter said use Behr, Benjamin Moore, whatever. To remind them they aren't the only game in town.

I re-sided a man's barn that had T1-11 with new T1-11 back in '15. I used Kilz2 and Superpaint, while also properly flashing everywhere, and it came out great. I have been keeping tabs on it and it still looks great.

[Snarl95]

Benjamin Moore Arborcoat. It's what I used on the shed.

[FleetsidePaul]

I would paint it with a good quality paint. I use Dunn Edwards. I'm not sure if it's available where you are and it is pricy.

I don't know if stain will provide the protection that you need. Maybe there is some new stuff that I don't know about that is super weather resistant.

Tim's right. That T1-11 needs to be given a good coat of paint or it will go downhill fast. Ask me how I know. That stuff is like a sponge.

T1-11 is like an ugly naked chick running in the snow. It needs some coverage.

[kingsolver72]

I appreciate everyoneÂ’s replies.
The ugly naked chick thing is brutal.
IÂ’ve decided to paint it. I talked to a local guy that does construction and he said
Sherwin Williams also. I did miss a small window of opportunity getting it painted. We have some bad weather headed our way. IÂ’ll break out the tarp.
I cut the rafters and hung them today. I ran out of daylight. IÂ’ll post some pictures tomorrow.

[special-K]

You'll get it. If you can spread the stone or, better yet, let the tarp/plastic sheeting lay out onto the ground to prevent splashing it would be a good idea. Definitely make sure it is well dried out before coating. Warm enough to paint days are tricky this time of year. It's like riding a motorcycle to work because the announced high is a great riding temp. You'll freeze on your way to and from the office and be at your desk when the temp is right. If you want to ride, take the day off!

Ok, back to paint. It's a small window on those warm days. Once it's warm enough, you better hurry it up. If anything, start while it's a bit cool for paint. You know the temp will climb, so no worries about freezing. It just won't spread as well, take a bit more paint. But the killer is as late afternoon comes. The sun hits a lower angle which starts the cooling off as well as the solar drying affect. Then comes the dampness, known as conversion, which causes dew and this time of year frost. You want to leave time to dry, so the cut-off time is before it starts cooling off. Right now that's about 3:30-4:00.

I just primed a bunch of beaded paneling I pre-cut for a ceiling, 18 pieces, on Thursday. I rolled it on with a nappy 1/2-size roller and brushed it for the desired look as well as working it into the beads. Took about 3 hrs. It had to be dry so I could stack it under cover before the dampness. I lose the sun pretty early here and I barely made it.

I've had paint feel dry to the touch on porch rail sections I left out sitting on saw horses over night. The next morning it was shiny wet. It didn't pay to put that extra effort into squeezing the last bit of sunlight out of the day. I grabbed the hose and sprayed it all off. It all came right off. If you've ever painted picket porch rail you know that was a lot of work wasted, not to mention the paint.

[kingsolver72]

Never seems to be enough daylight when your working outside.
I just can’t figure out how to control the weather pattern..
I cut and put up rafters yesterday. The day started out at 14*.
Worst part was my fingers hurt most of the day.

[special-K]

The best part is you never worked up a sweat! It's the fingers that get me. Otherwise, I love working outside on a cold day. It's looking good, taking shape.

One place the T1-11 fails is over openings and z-flashing. Whether you are using T1-11 in the gables or switch to horizontal siding, I suggest you pad out the framing the thickness of the T1-11 and let the gable siding lap over the top of the wall siding. If you do just tack on top of the other siding, using z-flashing, I suggest leaving a good 3/4" up off the flashing and getting that bottom edge seriously coated. I'd go ahead and pre-prime and paint that and catch the backside up a good 3-4" at least. That's even a good idea if you lap it over. Those edges are like a wick for moisture

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kingsolver72

Never seems to be enough daylight when your working outside.
I just can’t figure out how to control the weather pattern..
I cut and put up rafters yesterday. The day started out at 14*.
Worst part was my fingers hurt most of the day.

Looks good Scott. There is plenty of daylight if you are retired...

My fingers get cold quick also. I figured it was the old age. If you young whippersnappers have trouble too I don't feel so bad....

I like a lot of overhang on my building roofs so I go a little overboard on it once in a while. My big building doesn't have hardly any overhang and it really bothers me. One thing about it, it doesn't catch the wind as bad that way. Keep up the good work.

LockDoc

[kingsolver72]

Originally Posted by special-K

The best part is you never worked up a sweat! It's the fingers that get me. Otherwise, I love working outside on a cold day. It's looking good, taking shape.

One place the T1-11 fails is over openings and z-flashing. Whether you are using T1-11 in the gables or switch to horizontal siding, I suggest you pad out the framing the thickness of the T1-11 and let the gable siding lap over the top of the wall siding. If you do just tack on top of the other siding, using z-flashing, I suggest leaving a good 3/4" up off the flashing and getting that bottom edge seriously coated. I'd go ahead and pre-prime and paint that and catch the backside up a good 3-4" at least. That's even a good idea if you lap it over. Those edges are like a wick for moisture

Thanks for the tips!
I’m no carpenter, I swing a hammer most days at my regular job but, climbing up and down my ladders the last few days is kicking my butt.
When the weather turns nice I may take the scooter out on solo vacation.
I’ve got a buddy that is a dealership tech that is going to throw an eyeball on it this spring. Last fall he replace the forks seals. I think I want to get some riding in this year.
I got most of the shed kilzed and built some steps. (I still don’t understand that Pythagorean theorem.

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Looks good Scott. There is plenty of daylight if you are retired...

My fingers get cold quick also. I figured it was the old age. If you young whippersnappers have trouble too I don't feel so bad....

I like a lot of overhang on my building roofs so I go a little overboard on it once in a while. My big building doesn't have hardly any overhang and it really bothers me. One thing about it, it doesn't catch the wind as bad that way. Keep up the good work.

LockDoc

I have been ponder the overhang situation. I may build them about a foot deep.
It’s been windy here lately and I don’t want my shed to take off flying and land on a witch out in the cornfield.

On another not I’ve been wondering if I should slap some collar ties on the rafters. I don’t know if it’s good insurance or even necessary.
I put the tarps on we have wind, rain and snow in the forecast.
I forgot to take a picture after I got the tarp on.
I’m really wanting to cut the openings for the widow and doors.
I figure by waiting it’ll help keep things dry.

[kwmech]

Oil based primer--wait until it flashes off (about a week--weather permitting) then a quality latex. The T1-11 will soak it up like a sponge.


Bought a house about 20 years ago that was covered with the T1-11 siding that had been stained and was really showing the wear. The only way was with the oil primer followed up by the latex. Came out remarkable

[Snarl95]

Yes to the collar ties.

[lupo]

6 years ago I inherited a tri-level Wolmanized deck I've stained it three times and and it peals off within in a year .With the deck I inherited 6000 lb of BASF red colorant powder. I've been doing reading about barn paints were they take boiled linseed oil mix the red oxide color in it put three coats on a barn and IT goes for 50 years. Since the Home Depot stains didn't work I'm going to give it a shot this spring. Any farmers with with experience with this concoction ?

[special-K]

I don't have specific experience with that farmer's barn paint, but can attest to how well it does it's job through observation of numerous barns and outbuildings over long periods of time. The key here is the oil gets 'into' the wood not 'onto'. I have extensive experience in using boiled linseed oil mixed with various solvents used to preserve wood, just not this barn paint, which isn't actually paint (I don't suppose). I'm at opposite end of the spectrum from a chemist on the topic. But my seat of the pants knowledge tells me that maybe it's oils such as linseed, combined with solvents such as turpentine, as well as pigments that created the first incarnations of paint. I mix boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits to preserve and beautify natural wood. It soaks in and stays for quite a while. No prep required, not even cleaning if it's just a utility coating. It is not a coating that will ever peel or otherwise fail due to contaminants. The only contaminant that could affect it's penetration would be another oil. On log cabins boiled linseed mixed with turpentine is an age old preservative that also acts to repel insects... termites. I use leftovers of these mixtures to brush over old metal objects, from raw iron to old rusting metal signs, as a preservative coating. It never peels or flakes off those surfaces either. It's great stuff!

[72c20customcamper]

Like Tim said BLO cut with mineral spirits is a great preservative. What I like about it it really doesn't change the wood color all that much . I put 4 coats of it on the vanity base .

[lupo]

Painted wood last year with the boiled linseed and dye and I am very impressed. Well it's going to get the test on the entire deck . so far everything else has failed. I understand boiled linseed oil Rags will ignite by themselves so they should be stored in a metal container or outside. I ll let know next year if I'm still up upright how we made out. Thanks for the input

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by lupo

Painted wood last year with the boiled linseed and dye and I am very impressed. Well it's going to get the test on the entire deck . so far everything else has failed. I understand boiled linseed oil Rags will ignite by themselves so they should be stored in a metal container or outside. I ll let know next year if I'm still up upright how we made out. Thanks for the input

Yea they will spontaneously combust. I lay them out flat in the shade to dry but if I'm using it inside in winter into a coffee can with water they go

[kingsolver72]

Nice day to paint a shed.
I removed the tarps and did some painting. I ain’t much of a painter but it coming along good so far. I’m wanting to get the sheathing on sometime this week. Then cut the door and window openings. I made a door out of some 2x6 tongue and groove I’ve had for a while now. I really wanted to sheath the roof with that but, I don’t have enough.

[kingsolver72]

Here’s some more pictures. Thinking about using the hinges from my barn.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kingsolver72

Here’s some more pictures. Thinking about using the hinges from my barn.

Lookin' good! You keep it up you're going to work yourself out of a job....

LockDoc

[kingsolver72]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Lookin' good! You keep it up you're going to work yourself out of a job....

LockDoc

I’ve been working on this project from sun up to sun down on the weekends and the days I get home early from my paying job.
It’s a lot of work but it doesn’t feel like work. I’m having the time of my life. I look forward to getting up. I don’t want to think about working myself out of a job.
About 3 years ago I did some work at the courthouse. I installed carpet in a judges office. They had me pull the mop boards, er.. wall base.
It’s funny how I save it all this time. On days that it’s been rainy I’ve been stripping the many coats of paint.

[special-K]

Looks like something a carpenter built. I guess you are a carpenter.

I like overhangs on gables. Or should I say I don't like gables without an overhang? If winds are a concern, I like to do a minimal overhang that still looks way better than not. And they are cheaper and simpler to do. You could just stack 2bys. If you are doing a finished soffit you could just do blocks using scrap. I like a reveal, so I use one size under what the fascia is. Such as 2x4 blocks for 1x or 2x fascia. I do up to three blocks, then fascia.

The door looks like it will work out well. T-hinges will be nice and strong. I used that size on my little barn with 4' wide doors make of 1 x 8 t&g... plus all the metal signs hung on them. I did 3 per door. Are you doing a z-brace to prevent sagging?