Brake pedal hole and hydro boost

[bnokle]

I have another hole 1" down I think it is. Is this a good idea to increase the pedal resistance with the hydro boost? Its off an 02 2500 if that makes any difference. I also cut the end off the pushrod and dilled out the pushrod end from the old setup, stuck the two together and welded it. So now its adjustable.

[MDPotter]

I didn't do anything to change the pedal resistance. I just enlarged the stock hole in the firewall so the hydroboost slid through and made a new backing plate so it attaches to the brake pedal assembly studs. Stops on a dime and the pedal feel is just fine.

[bnokle]

Cool. I'll try it in the stock hole first and see.


Thanks

[Dleslie212]

Originally Posted by bnokle

Cool. I'll try it in the stock hole first and see.


Thanks

I just installed a hydroboost conversion on my 77. Does the brake pedal HAVE to be modified? Or is that only if it's not working properly? How would I be able to tell it needs to be modified?

[Getter-Done]

There are several good threads about this subject.

Link: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ght=hydroboost

Link: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ght=hydroboost

Link: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...ght=hydroboost

Hope this helps.

[Extended Power]

Originally Posted by bnokle

I have another hole 1" down I think it is. Is this a good idea to increase the pedal resistance with the hydro boost? Its off an 02 2500 if that makes any difference. I also cut the end off the pushrod and dilled out the pushrod end from the old setup, stuck the two together and welded it. So now its adjustable.

I bought a hydroboost that was meant for an earlier truck, but modified it to work on my ‘70.
Moving the rod down, is a bad idea, unless it straightens out the rod so it is more “inline” with the hydroboost. (Not angled away from it.)

In the instructions that came with the kit I got, it basically says to make the rod as straight as possible, so there is no binding at all.

I’m still finishing up my install.
I can’t use the rod end that came with the kit, as when I try to bolt it to the brake pedal arm, the bolt hits the steering column...so I have to use the stock end piece that uses a bolt which acts like a bushing.
Same thing, I have to get the length of the rod, and put the new rod, with the old rod, and weld them together.

Did you add an oil cooler, or remote reservoir on your install?

[Dleslie212]

No, no cooler or remote reservoir.

I took it out two weekends ago on its first drive out to BLM land to do some shooting, about an hour each direction. I knew I'd have to get on the freeway, so my brother and I left early to avoid traffic. About 15 minutes in, I started getting a really bad shutter when braking, and I could just smell roasting brakes.

I pulled over and found both front calipers just smoking. I ended up removing the booster rod, adjusting it out about a half inch, and reattaching to the brake pedal. It's been beautiful since then. I was basically riding the brakes without having to use my foot. After the hour drive back home I popped the hood to feel the booster hoses. They felt warm, but not hot or overly warm at all

The kit I bought is specifically designed for the rod to be cut down to whichever length is needed

[LockDoc]

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My Hydroboost install starts with post #284 and pretty much ends with #298 in my build thread. Post #298 shows what I did with my pedal rod.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...829820&page=12

LockDoc
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