2 inch rear drop on 71 c10

[Southern Shaker]

Can i see a 67-72 c10 with a 2 inch rear drop from stock height Please ?

[lolife99]

anyone?

[Southern Shaker]

oh well guess no one goes that shallow they all go father haha

[69gmcc10]

I swapped to a stock trailing arm setup from leafs on my 69 GMC. The only thing done to make it lower is a 2" block. It sits just a little nose high but I am cutting 1/2 a coil off the front soon to fix that.

I hope this helps.

[Southern Shaker]

Thank you ! i think im going to go a lot lower maybe 4-5 inches in the rear

[69gmcc10]

I defiantly understand, 2" alone is a very subtle drop, but that is what I am going for on this truck.

how are you thinking of lowering it? Blocks and spring or just springs?

[Southern Shaker]

Not sure yet , Dont know much about lowering trucks what would you recommend ?

[69gmcc10]

That is a big question with allot of different answers. You need to figure out what you want your truck to do. Do you want to just cruse down the road, ride on air, handle or a combination of some or all? Your answer will determine "how" you go lower and what you will need/want.

[Southern Shaker]

well i live out in the boonies i want the truck to perform well handle well lots of curves out here but i want it to have a street rod tilt to it

[69gmcc10]

what size rim r u gonna run?

[Southern Shaker]

im thinking 19x10 fronts with 22x12 rears

[69gmcc10]

So, you want your truck 5 inches lower in the rear, to handle and you are going to run big wheels and tires. First let me begin with saying there are allot of different opinions on how to do this and this is just mine, maybe someone else will chime in with another point of view.

I would start with 2" lowering blocks, they lower all the handling variables with minimal changes to changes to the trucks geometry. Blocks also make it easy fine tune your ride height for the rake you are looking for by simply removing the 2" block with a.5", 1" or 1.5" block. Next I would go with a 3" lowering spring, shocks and shock re-locators (modify what you have or buy the kit) to help keep the effective angle of your shocks correct to match the lowering springs. The final thing I would recommend would be an adjustable long panhard bar to center the rear axle under the truck and help keep it there through the suspension cycle. Optional, I would flip the trailing arm mounting bracket on the cross member to adjust the anti-squat of the truck for better traction and help correct most of the pinion angle change caused by the spring swap. Up front go with a drop spindle, a lowering spring (or cut the spring you already have) and a 1 ton sway bar.

[Southern Shaker]

I want it somewere along the lines of this but i dont want to bag it. I want it to preform a little. I have a 3/4 ton sway bar will that work ?

[Tshort1]

To get that low you will need 6 inch springs and a 2 inch block or more and a serious C notch in the rear. the front you will need 2.5 spindles and 3 inch springs. And I still dont think it would be as slamed as the picture.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Southern Shaker

I want it somewere along the lines of this but i dont want to bag it. I want it to preform a little. I have a 3/4 ton sway bar will that work ?

You went from wanting a 2" drop to slammed on the ground all in one thread. Thats a pretty big leap. FYI-The truck you pictured is bagged, and your not going to get close to being that low with out air springs.

Yes, the C20 sway bar will make a great improvement in your ability to corner flat. Decide what you "really" want and what you can actually afford. Then ask realistic questions and we will gladly offer advice.

[69gmcc10]

I don't think bags are a "must" to get that look, but you just took on a huge project. You will need to kick the rear frame rails up 4" (raise the truck bed 4"), get 4" lowering springs and 2" blocks (about 10" in all). Up front you are looking at 3" drop member, 3" drop spindles, and 2" drop springs. It would be one cool static drop, but allot of work and some expensive parts. If you go this route a build thread will be a must so we can all watch.

[69gmcc10]

yes, 3/4 ton bar is fine, but it wont be what you are looking for if you go this rout.

[GEARBOXGARAGE]

That's The Roadster Shop's test mule for their new set-up on a completely new, aftermarket frame. Check out the pics here on flickr

Roadster Shop C-10 pickup | Flickr - Photo...

Cool stuff, but big $$

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 69gmcc10

I don't think bags are a "must" to get that look, but you just took on a huge project.....

How you going turn turn with it static dropped that low? Unless you run an extremely narrow track width its not going to happen.

Originally Posted by 69gmcc10

yes, 3/4 ton bar is fine, but it wont be what you are looking for if you go this rout.

Please explain this reply? The C20/C30 front bar is a great addition to a stock or lowered C/10.

[lolife99]

The Roadster Shop C10 rides on a custom chassis with coilover shocks.
No bags.
http://roadstershop.com/galleries/1970-c-10-pick-up/

Still not what the OP is talking about,...

[69gmcc10]

I am not trying to step an any toes here N2TRUX, I have nothin but respect for you, but there is more than one way to skin a cat. You said-

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

FYI-The truck you pictured is bagged, and your not going to get close to being that low with out air springs.

-and they clearly don't have bags on that truck. I was just tryin tell the OP he did have options even though bags would be cheaper and easier.

The sway bar comment was more directed that if he wanted such an extremely modified suspension he would be better served with a aftermarket bar. I run and love my factory 1 ton bar.

[lolife99]

Many extreme static dropped trucks, (or bagged trucks) successfully run a stock C10/C20/C30 sway bar by removing the front frame stands,... and mount the bar directly to the frame rails.

But I agree there might be better articulation of the sway bar, by using an aftermarket sway bar with end links.

[N2TRUX]

I had a feeling I was going to get to eat my words after I posted them. I failed to dig down on that truck and assumed it was one of the RS's older builds with bags.

69gmcc10 you are right in that the truck is not bagged, but it is running a completely custom designed and fabricated suspension to accomplish that stance. I stand corrected sir.

As Keith has mentioned and the point I was making regarding the C/20 bar is there are 3 different ways to run an OEM bar. You can use the stock bushing clamp stands for stock or mildly dropped trucks. You can use the shorter clamp stands sold by E.C.E. for a moderately lowered truck. You can also bolt the bushing clamps directly to the frame for a severely lowered truck.

Those options cover a pretty broad range of drops while sill using the economical choice a an OEM bar.

[Southern Shaker]

did i mention the 3/4 ton bar is off a 87 burb?

[Southern Shaker]

hey 69gmc do you have pics of your lowering blocks i could see ??