Build: I've never done bodywork...but I can change if I have to! (bagged '67 SWB BBC)

[Bennett68C10]

Just caught up on your build. I admire the fact that you have decided to take on the paint and bodywork yourself. Everything looks awesome, great job.
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[jae]

Looking good so far. I'm definitely going to be following the rest of your build.

[BossHogg69]

What part number was that parking brake cable kit?
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[BLUIDVL]

Originally Posted by smoknbarrels

Thanks!

Never heard of evercoat s s, what is it?
My biggest problem is welding my body panels, even using .023 wire on the lowest heat setting, doing a few spots at a time far apart, still warps like crazy!? Its frustrating me like unreal. I tell ya, if a real bodyman seen what i did to perfectly new bedsides, he'd have a few sighs..
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Instead of me writing out all this, here is a link to the tech sheets

I use this product after i have my bodywork dialed in.

http://evercoat.com/imgs/pis/SLICKSANDPIS.pdf

I would also recommend using a epoxy primer on all your metalwork or bare metal spots before you apply any fillers.

As for fillers i like to use a skim coat of evercoat everglass over all my metalwork areas. Lets say you have a pinhole you missed welding up the everglass will resist moisture where bondo or filler will absorb the moisture.

After you layed down a skim coat of everglass and sanded it, you can use your choice of fillers. I perfer rage gold or extreme body filler(nice stuff to sand).

In no way am i telling you how to do your build but offering some advise that i have used for many times and had great results.

[canadian sledneck]

Originally Posted by BLUIDVL

Instead of me writing out all this, here is a link to the tech sheets

I use this product after i have my bodywork dialed in.

http://evercoat.com/imgs/pis/SLICKSANDPIS.pdf

I would also recommend using a epoxy primer on all your metalwork or bare metal spots before you apply any fillers.

As for fillers i like to use a skim coat of evercoat everglass over all my metalwork areas. Lets say you have a pinhole you missed welding up the everglass will resist moisture where bondo or filler will absorb the moisture.

After you layed down a skim coat of everglass and sanded it, you can use your choice of fillers. I perfer rage gold or extreme body filler(nice stuff to sand).

In no way am i telling you how to do your build but offering some advise that i have used for many times and had great results.

WOW that stuff seems to good to be true, I must try it out. Thanks for the info

[BLUIDVL]

One major thing i have forgotten to say is if you end up using Slick Sand make sure the shop or paint store you buy it from puts it on the paint shaker for a min. of 10min.

If they tell you they shake it up before it goes on the shelf, INSIST they shake it again.

Another thing is to spray it through a gun with a 2.0 tip or larger.

[smoknbarrels]

Originally Posted by Bennett--G4L

Just caught up on your build. I admire the fact that you have decided to take on the paint and bodywork yourself. Everything looks awesome, great job.
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Thanks, it is quite the learning process!

Originally Posted by jae

Looking good so far. I'm definitely going to be following the rest of your build.

cool, thanks.

Originally Posted by BossHogg69

What part number was that playing brake cable kit?
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the Wilwood prake brake cable or the or the inline tube pedal to intermediate cable?
I assume wilwood, they only have one park brake cable kit, its a universal fit, that only works with their disc/drum combo units.

Originally Posted by BLUIDVL

...I would also recommend using a epoxy primer on all your metalwork or bare metal spots before you apply any fillers.

As for fillers i like to use a skim coat of evercoat everglass over all my metalwork areas. Lets say you have a pinhole you missed welding up the everglass will resist moisture where bondo or filler will absorb the moisture.

After you layed down a skim coat of everglass and sanded it, you can use your choice of fillers. I perfer rage gold or extreme body filler(nice stuff to sand).

In no way am i telling you how to do your build but offering some advise that i have used for many times and had great results.

yea, I do use an etching primer on parts I sand right to bare metal. then start using primers after I do filler jobs, once I learned how to block things out properly i got better results. I welcome experience and advice! Thanks.

[smoknbarrels]

well things are progressing... finally finished destroying my nice new bedsides, used a stud puller to bring it back a bit then filler'd her up! just need to do a few touch ups and fill a few bubble pockets, then scuff it up and start the paint process on them.


got sensors mounted up for the e-level up front, had to mount them a bit lower so it would clear the shocks which i relocated, so i just welded on a plate to the bracket I had already made for the shocks.


and here is the cab right in the middle of being wet sanded, what a long process, i really don't care for the orange peel look though, so I hit the clear with 800 then again with 2000. hopefully I can find materials I need to buffer it tomorrow, then I can put the cab on the frame for good!!!

[67cheby]

Looking good !
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[Bomp]

Good steady progress.

[smoknbarrels]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

Looking good !

Thanks!!

Originally Posted by Bomp

Good steady progress.

thanks! hows the recovery going?


here are some shots after the wetsand of the clear coat. I am new to this so i didn't want to go too aggressive, resulting in a little wave here and there.. but wayy better then before! I was doing some reading on the internet (which was a bad thing this time) read some info and started the wetsand with 800, well that turned out to be much to aggressive for what I wanted, and now I have little micro scratches and I'm a bit too affraid to keep hitting it with 2000 to remove them and end up sanding off the clear is some areas.
I buffed it and polished, came out good, minus the micro scratches and the odd spot where the stupid 8" knuckle buster caught the drip rail for a split second and burnt the paint off right to the primer!

I dunno how I will buff the interior? I tried by hand, seems completely ineffective...

[YBNORML]

Looks great!! You'll be driving long before I will
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[68GMCCustom]

that looks great! Did you mention the color and I missed? Just went thru but couldn't find where you mention it?

[BLUIDVL]

Looking good smoknbarrels.

Some advice on wet & polish....

Start with 800 grit to cut your down your orangepeel like you did.

Then hit it with 1000 grit

Then 1500 grit

Then 2000 grit & if you havent gone insane by then

Hit it with 2500 grit. You really dont have to go to this extreme using 2500 grit but makes it nicer to polish out.

One thing i noticed on your cab you wet sanded is the you sanded right to the edge.

That is not recomended, reason being it is so easy to burn through on a edge polishing.

This will open a whole new can of worms for you & not in a good way....

I like to stay a min of a 1/2" from all edges on a wet/polish. I also tape around all my edges to be safe.

Another little tip is to add a drop of dish soap in you bucket & spray bottle when your wet sanding. Makes sanding a little easier.

Also do not wet sand with out a block, never just use your hand. You will end up seeing grooves created by your hand.

Hope this helps.

How many coats of clear did you lay down?
What brand are you using of clear?
What size tip & air pressure are you using?

[Hardesty454]

Looks great! Trial by error is the best way to learn. I'll follow along for this build.
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[PHAT TONY]

Originally Posted by YBNORML

Looks great!! You'll be driving long before I will
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Probably,.......he may never let you drive it at all!

[PHAT TONY]

I don't know how many coats of clear you put on, if it's less than 4 or 5 go easy....

[YBNORML]

Originally Posted by PHAT TONY

Probably,.......he may never let you drive it at all!

Nice!
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[smoknbarrels]

Originally Posted by YBNORML

Looks great!! You'll be driving long before I will

Its funny, i have most of the winter to work on it, but like last year i dont get much done during the winter, but push hard the last few weeks of spring, starting to not look like its gonna be rolling this summer..

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

that looks great! Did you mention the color and I missed? Just went thru but couldn't find where you mention it?

The colour is Galaxy Blue from Alsa, not an easy paint for a beginner.

Originally Posted by BLUIDVL

Looking good smoknbarrels.

Some advice on wet & polish....

Start with 800 grit to cut your down your orangepeel like you did.

Then hit it with 1000 grit

Then 1500 grit

Then 2000 grit & if you havent gone insane by then

Hit it with 2500 grit. You really dont have to go to this extreme using 2500 grit but makes it nicer to polish out.

One thing i noticed on your cab you wet sanded is the you sanded right to the edge.

That is not recomended, reason being it is so easy to burn through on a edge polishing.

This will open a whole new can of worms for you & not in a good way....

I like to stay a min of a 1/2" from all edges on a wet/polish. I also tape around all my edges to be safe.

Another little tip is to add a drop of dish soap in you bucket & spray bottle when your wet sanding. Makes sanding a little easier.

Also do not wet sand with out a block, never just use your hand. You will end up seeing grooves created by your hand.

Hope this helps.

How many coats of clear did you lay down?
What brand are you using of clear?
What size tip & air pressure are you using?

You have some really good points! What I did was sand with 800, then 1200, then 2000, but i guess i didnt sand enough with the 2000 (must have been getting tired) and i got some micro scratches left behind from the other papers. I sprayed 3 coats of clear, so i am a little nervous of sanding too much. I didn't know you can spray up to 5 coats! Sounds like a lot of product!
I used a 1.5 tip for my base ( think i'm going to 1.3 next time) and used 1.3 for my clear. Clear is a proform product or plus1 or something like that. Running my pressure a little over 20psi at the gun.
Wish i would have though of taping off drip rail and a few other spots, as i did do a bit of damage, i guess i will just have to use some nail polish and do a few touch ups.

Originally Posted by Hardesty454

Looks great! Trial by error is the best way to learn. I'll follow along for this build.

I definitely am learning! Thanks.

Originally Posted by PHAT TONY

I don't know how many coats of clear you put on, if it's less than 4 or 5 go easy....

Yea, 3 coats exterior, and 2 interior. I am thinking i should not have wetsanded the interior at all, its impossible to buff that area on the dash, i need to buy some sort of small head for a drill or something.
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[smoknbarrels]

Another forum member was nice enough to give us an idea of what the build should end up like.

[sduckworth13]

That is a super nice color, your doing great job. It'll all be worth the effort when your done.
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[Bomp]

Your buildin a show winner there.






foot recovery is going good thanks for asking.

[smoknbarrels]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

That is a super nice color, your doing great job. It'll all be worth the effort when your done.

yea, I actually really like it the more i look at it, thanks.

Originally Posted by Bomp

Your buildin a show winner there...

I don't think it gonna be a show winner, but I am trying to the best of my skills.... and patience! thanks!



gonna stay up late tonight, or into the early hours and get my paint and clear done on the doors, and perhaps hang them the next day or two! I am just waiting for my primer to dry so I can hit it with some 320.

[smoknbarrels]

well I didn't spray the colour last night, takes a while sanding the primer down.


but here it is!! finally have the doors done today, so I will be looking forward to hanging them in the next day or two, wanna make sure I don't get finger prints in the clear coat when handling them.


thought it would be fun to spray my brake reservoir, so I disassembled it and shot the casting.

[VA72C10]

looking good!