Need tips about removing gas cap

[dmjlambert]

Well, if I had known this sort of thing could happen, I would not have put this gas cap on there. Last year I got a new gas tank, sender, and gas cap from Classic Industries. I ordered the gas tank from their catalog and the gas cap their tech support guy recommended. It is a locking Stant cap. I've been happy with it until today.

I went to put gas in the truck, and there is no way that cap is coming off. It is stuck on there so surely, you would be impressed. It certainly has made an impression on me.

It looks to me like it is not fitting evenly on the neck, I don't know how to describe it well, but here are pictures. I'm not sure if it was hit, but it doesn't look damaged. I am always careful to just gently press it in place, but I suppose something could have happened with neighborhood kids or somebody in a parking lot since a couple weeks ago when I got gas. The key turns with no problem, and I can't see any damage or problem with the cap, it just won't come off.

I just don't know what to do. I've done a substantial amount of cussing, but that got me nowhere. If I could destroy it somehow to remove it, without generating a spark or sending bits of metal down into the tank and without destroying the tank I guess that would be OK. Otherwise I guess I will need advice on how to cut the neck off of the gas tank safely, so I can replace tank and cap. OMG. Ideas?

[hamjet]

Did you try pushing in hard before turning the key??

[HO455]

Had a similar problem on our 52 and solved it with the largest channel lock pliers known to man! I had to do a little repair on the fill tube when I was done but the cap was off.
Good luck.

[Already Gone]

When I bought my first 1972 in 2003 I put one of those caps on right away and never had an issue with it ever an sold my truck in 2014. I know caps are different for the various 67-72's . Maybe you were given the wrong cap and that why it has locked up . Sorry no solution for you.

[LockDoc]

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I've never had one but aren't they spring loaded? I mean don't you have to put a little pressure on the key to overcome the springs and retract the locking tabs?

If you don't feel that pressure maybe something is broken inside. If you rap on the outside of it or around the top with a rubber or plastic mallet while you put a little pressure on the key maybe it will jar the tabs loose.... Dunno. Just some ideas.

I see some moisture around it. If you guys have been having some cold weather (which it looks like) maybe it is frozen. If you think it could be, try warming it up with a hair dryer.

LockDoc

[dmjlambert]

Yes. The cap moves slightly inward when I do, I think it is the rubber gasket compressing. So I don't know why it won't come off. It is cold here, so at first I thought it may be frozen on. But I pointed a hair dryer at it for about 15 minutes, and it is nice and summer-warm now. It will not come off. I tried pressing on it and then turning the key, pressing down on it while turning the key, and turning the key and then pressing down on it. I tried pressing up to return it to being centered on the neck, and it will not move in that direction. I am thinking of hitting it with a wood block.

[rcazwillis]

Will the key turn? I would be tempted to drill the lock out or take tin snips to the chrome sheet metal and cut it apart.

[dmjlambert]

Yes, the key turns and does not feel like anything different than normal. It has a spring return mechanism on the key cylinder, and that part still works. The only thing abnormal here is the cap will not come off. At all. I tried hitting it at various angles with a large rubber mallet while trying to persuade it. I am sure it's not frozen now that I've used a hair dryer for a good long time.

Regarding LockDoc

I've never had one but aren't they spring loaded? I mean don't you have to put a little pressure on the key to overcome the springs and retract the locking tabs?

Yes I believe that is how it works, and to the best of my ability I have relieved the pressure on the locking tabs by compressing the gasket.

The best I can figure is it just utterly failed or was somehow damaged without outward visible clues.

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Yes. The cap moves slightly inward when I do, I think it is the rubber gasket compressing. So I don't know why it won't come off. It is cold here, so at first I thought it may be frozen on. But I pointed a hair dryer at it for about 15 minutes, and it is nice and summer-warm now. It will not come off. I tried pressing on it and then turning the key, pressing down on it while turning the key, and turning the key and then pressing down on it. I tried pressing up to return it to being centered on the neck, and it will not move in that direction. I am thinking of hitting it with a wood block.

First I'd try getting ahold of a locksmith, particularly someone that's been around a while. Then if all else fails, I'd put a pipe wrench to it, of course if all else fails. good luck.

['68OrangeSunshine]

I had the same locking cap on my '68 C/10 Stepside. I think I lost the key. Be careful with the XL Channel-locks. I ''musclef*cked'' mine off and tore up the flanges on the filler neck. It was that way until I swapped-in an unmolested tank off a junkyard '67 [after a good flush and hot-tanking]. Still have the '67 tank but the float-level readings were never the same.

[Jason Banks]

I'd try to hacksaw the face off of it, to get a better look. At least down to the lock cylinder.

[samkost]

I also have this same gas cap.
Just a thought.....does the cap spin/rotate freely on the tank neck?
When I replace mine after a fill up I orient the cap so the label info is readable(square?) if that makes sense.
Hope this helps and good luck.

[El Dorado Jim]

Like Jason said, I would use a hacksaw to cut the rim of the cap off and then I think you can see the tabs that hold the cap on, maybe you can then use a screwdriver to push the spring loaded tabs in and remove the cap,or you may be able to hacksaw the whole cap off at the top of the filler neck , you may have to flush your tank after that,but better than destroying your tank with a pipe wrench or channel locks...

[garyd1961]

It looks just like my cap. My cap doesn't rotate it just goes straight on and off so twisting on it with big channel locks would damage the filler neck. I would try drilling and cutting it off with metal snips.

[dmjlambert]

I very much appreciate everybody's replies and advice. I am reading every word from everybody. I am going to proceed with care and try to save the tank. I will try some finesse with hacksaw, pliers, drill.

I will probably just park the truck and leave it until next week when it is supposed to get warmer around here, because it is just too cold to mess with it any more today.

Worst case scenario, I will need to order yet another brand new tank from Classic Industries, and install it.

If somebody could attach a picture of what your locking cap looks like removed, that would be great. I can't remember exactly what it looks like on the inside, and knowing that may help me figure out what to do once I have the cap partially torn apart.

Recommendations for a different brand of locking cap (I doubt there is one) are welcome. Or I will need to go with a regular cap, and recommendations about those are welcome too. I need to order one from somewhere. This is a 1969 truck with carburetor, I don't have a return line and charcoal canister, so I will be needing a regular old-fashioned vented cap.

If any of you have an extra good cap that you would like to sell me, please let me know by PM. This is a want-to-by, and since I did my paid membership I'm allowed. :-)

[BILT4ME]

I had this happen on one 20 years ago and I swore off from locking caps ever since!

In my case, the key would turn, but the two retractable ears would not retract.

the cap has two "guides" that slide into the two cutouts in the neck. Then 90 degrees to that, the two retractable ears lock under the lip inside the neck. Where the ears are, there is a "channel" that they move in and it is slightly accessible from the outside.

I had to use a very fine screwdriver (and I may have bent it into a L or U shape) in order to slip it behind the outer lip where the retractable ears are. I then pushed IN on the piece in the channel of the ear and forced the ear to move toward the center of the cap. That got ONE ear loose. After that, I did the same on the other side and was able to get the cap off.

I was a locksmith in college, so I tried to go through the lock first and it was NOT the lock's problem. The end of the lock probably broke off that ACTUATES the ears.

This is NOT easy or quick. PATIENCE is the key and being creative on making a tool that can slip under the cap and go over the neck and pry inward to get them to release.

Channellocks will not do any good other than allow you to put diagonal pressure on the cap to possibly allow or create clearance. Another possibility is to bend the outer lip of the cap out and up (use the channellocks to support the cap so you're not torquing on your filler neck).

So, maybe two pairs of channellocks and a screwdriver or three.

Good Luck! (Mine was also on a 69.)

[samkost]

Hope this helps,
Photos show the tank neck slots and the caps locking tabs.
Hopefully you will figure it out.
Good luck again

[LongBox]

The cap is made by Stant, right? Why not find out how to get hold of Stant, and ask them to solve the problem? They might very well have a rep in Texas.

[Grumpy old man]

Do you have road service ? Every commercial lock out kit comes with 3 base locking gas cap "break in" keys , the 3rd picture looks like the cap isn't seated right .Turn and hold the key with your left hand and using a rubber mallet in your right hand smack the bottom and it will come off
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[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by hamjet

Did you try pushing in hard before turning the key??

Exactly what I was going to say. Sometimes pushing against an edge is the ticket. As Grumpy eluded to, start by pushing the high end down. Then perhaps center, and jiggle/twist that sucker off. It's easy to get frustrated with locks and such, but they eventually come loose with the right "attitude", so long as the lock itself isn't completely broken. I have the same cap, but couldn't tell you if it's the same part. I'm sure you've lubed the key hole a bit. If not you might want to.

Also, I'm no rocket scientist, but spark and gas aren't likely a good combination. Neither is a fuel system and metal fragments. I would not drill/cut into that. There must be a locksmith available to help, as a last resort.

[CaptRMW]

Look at the bright side no one can steal your gas. But if they do your problem is solved.

[B. W.]

I agree with BILT4ME, if the key operates correctly then the linkage (mechanism, whatever) that attaches to the locking bolts is broken. It may be possible to drill out the lock cylinder without drilling all the way through the cap, this will prevent most, if not all of the debris from entering the tank. This may allow access to the locking bolts or may allow them to move freely. All of the locking caps I've dealt with are non-ferrous (pot metal?) so sparking should't be an issue. Maybe LockDoc can chime in on sparks when drilling out a tumbler?

[Ironhorse]

I have a locking gas cap VERY similar to that one in my parts stash. Will get some pics tomorrow and post them, maybe that will help. Sent you a PM. Good luck.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by B. W.

I agree with BILT4ME, if the key operates correctly then the linkage (mechanism, whatever) that attaches to the locking bolts is broken. It may be possible to drill out the lock cylinder without drilling all the way through the cap, this will prevent most, if not all of the debris from entering the tank. This may allow access to the locking bolts or may allow them to move freely. All of the locking caps I've dealt with are non-ferrous (pot metal?) so sparking should't be an issue. Maybe LockDoc can chime in on sparks when drilling out a tumbler?

It's hard to tell what they put in the newer ones. On the older ones all of the parts of the lock plug (the center part that the key goes into) are, the cap, (stainless), tumblers, retainer, and springs (brass), and the plug itself is pot metal. You won't get a recommendation from me to drill it because of the liability reasons....

LockDoc

[Stocker]

Mine looks just like this pic that was posted above



Also as posted above, mine doesn't rotate it, just goes straight on and off. To remove, I push on the cap (barely), then turn the key and off it comes.

Good luck, I hope you get it removed soon.