My 1954 Chevy PickUp-truck

[nuke1]

I like the pile of parts ther, shiny! looking good.

[snoopy0775]

Hi to all...hope you´ve had a great Christmas-time.
My project is on hold again because of the holiday from the bodywork...i hope it will go on in the middle or end of january.
I make this reply because i have some new question: Do you know the exact profile-measurement of the bed-wood for my 1954 build (1st) Chevy truck? How many panels of wood does the bed include and how measures the cutouts for the bed strips?

By the way: i have made a bank account to collect money for this project...also i´m looking for some sponsors now.
My business is still really bad running because of the economic crisis, and so it comes that there isn´t enough money for the truck......so if you want to help me with a little donate please mail me.
Thanks for your attention

Regards from germany - Robin

Have a great new year´s eve (?don´t know if this is the correct spelling?)

[OrrieG]

GMC Pauls and Mar-K both have good information on the bed wood sizes. I have detailed dimensions for a 58-59 short fleetside (hand notes taken when I disassembled the bed) that I could share.

Regarding the comments about dumping junk off shore, I would hope that does not happen, but anything is possible. If it was from a third party I could see that happening, manf or distributor unloads returns to third party who resells as good stuff. Kind of like scratch and dent sales. There is a store in my town that buys all the returns to big box stores and resells them "as-is" at deep discount price. Warrantys are still good but you have to deal directly with the manufacturer to get the junk fixed.

[solidaxel]

See if this helps!
I had this saved for future use but I DID NOT save the authors info




Subject: Bed Info


BED RESTORATION INFORMATION

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I've restored a few Advance Design beds in the past so I know some of the surprises that await the first time restorer. I'll try to help alleviate some of those surprises by including as much information as possible on what I know about the different bed varieties, board widths, board thickness, components, parts suppliers and restoration methods.


My Show Oak Bed Kit

BED VARIETIES:
1947-54
CHEVROLET & GMC BED'S Chevy/GMC
1/2 Ton Bed Length Chevrolet Long 1/2 Ton Length GMC Long
1/2 Ton Length Chevy/GMC
3/4 ton Bed
Length Side Rail Design # of wood planks Wear Strip
Bolt Hole
Quantity
1947 77" Not Available 85 3/4" 85 3/4" Angled 9 7
1948 77" Not Available 85 3/4" 85 3/4" " 9 7
1949 77" Not Available 85 3/4" 85 3/4" " 9 7
1950 77" Not Available 85 3/4" 85 3/4" " 9 7
1951 77" Not Available 85 3/4" 85 3/4" " Early 51 = 9
Late 51= 8 7
1952 77" Not Available 85 3/4" 85 3/4" " 8 7
1953 77" Not Available 85 3/4" 85 3/4" " 8 7
1954 77 1/4" 89" 89 " 85 3/4" Flat 8 8

Chevrolet and GMC 1/2 ton beds starting in 1947-'53 had the following dimension:

Depth x Width x Length = 15" x 50" x 77"
Chevrolet and GMC 3/4 ton beds starting in 1947-'53 had the following dimension:
Depth x Width x Length = 15" x 50" x 85 3/4"
In 1954 Chevrolet reduced the frame kick-up to allow for an increase in bed depth of 2". The bed dimensions changed to:
Depth x Width x Length = 17" x 50" x 77 1/4" for the 1/2 ton
Depth x Width x Length = 17" x 50" x 89" for the 3/4 ton
GMC'S LONG 1/2 TON
GMC Corporation had all the similar bed configuration as Chevrolet but due to it's stronger engines with full flow oiling, it was able to offer the long 1/2 ton truck as an option to its buyers well before 1954. The long 1/2 ton incorporated an extended frame to support the lengthened box on the 1/2 ton chassis. This lengthened box was only available on the Chevrolet 3/4 ton chassis. The long 1/2 ton can be distinguished from the 3/4 ton by the quantity of lug nut on the rear end. If the rear end has 6 lugs then its a long 1/2 ton but if it has 8 lugs then its a 3/4 ton.


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BOARD WIDTHS:
If you would rather cut your own boards for your bed then ordering up a kit your going to need to know how many boards you'll need and their dimensions. From the chart above you can see that the 1947 to early 1951 trucks had 9 boards making up the bed. The late 1951 to 1954 used 8 boards.
The boards width depended on what position they were placed on the bed end cross sills. You can kind of get an idea of the bed wood width and for that matter a clue to the beds year "if the bed happened to have been changed at one time" by counting the wear strips in the bed or if their missing the holes for the wear strips in the front or rear cross sills. If their are 8 holes in the sill then the bed is from a 1947- Early 1951 series. If their are only 7 holes in the sill then the bed is from the Late 1951-54 series.

The tables below show the width of each board and its relative position.


1947 to Early 1951
9 Boards
4 1/4" 5" 5 1/2" 5 1/2" 6 3/8" 5 1/2" 5 1/2" 5" 4 1/4"


Late 1951 to 1954
8 Boards
4 1/4" 7 1/4" 5" 7 1/4" 7 1/4" 5" 7 1/4" 4 1/4"




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WOOD THICKNESS:
The original boards final thickness is 3/4". This can be confirmed by measuring the step in the back #4 cross sill by the tailgate. This step allows the wood to fit even with the rear cross sill for ease of cleaning out the bed or shoveling out gravel without hitting a ledge when the tailgate is down.



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BED WOOD SPECIAL MILLING FEATURES:
The bed wood has a few special milling steps added to it for extended life and service.
The edges of each board "except the outer most edges of the two outer bed boards" are milled with a special groove which allowed the:

board to expand and contract due to climate changes without bending or cracking.
metal wear strips to ride on the wood and be slightly higher then the wood to reduce the likely hood of material coming in direct contact with the wood and increasing wear.



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BED CROSS SILLS:
Probably one of the most misunderstood and often just plain missing parts on the bed assembly are the cross sills. It's no wonder because by the time you purchase the truck usually the original wood has long since disappeared and often times with one or two of the cross sills.
The number of bed cross sills depends on the year of the truck and it's model.

CHEVROLET & GMC BED'S
CROSS SILL'S Chevy/GMC
1/2 Ton Bed Length GMC Long
1/2 Ton Length Chevy/GMC
3/4 ton Bed
Length
1947-1948 5 5 5
1949-55 1 St. Series 4 5 5
1950 4 5 5
1951 4 5 5
1952 4 5 5
1953 4 5 5
1954 4 5 5


The 1/2 Ton Beds from 1947-48 have five bed cross sills:

one attached to the front bed panel
two just before the frame kick up
one behind the frame kick up
one at the rear which contains the pads to bolt the bed to the frame and hold the rear of the bed together.
The cross sills above the gas tank were manufactured with a recess to allow the gas tank to sit higher up next to the bed for ground clearance.


Photo's Courtesy of Mike Klepp who's restoring a 1948 Chevrolet 3100

The 1/2 Ton Beds from 1949-54 1 St. Series has four bed cross sills:

one attached to the front bed panel
one just before the frame kick up
one behind the frame kick up
one at the rear which contains the pads to bolt the bed to the frame and hold the rear of the bed together.
The long 1/2 tons and the 3/4 tons all had five cross sills:
one attached to the front bed panel
one just before the frame kick up
two behind the frame kick up
one at the rear which contains the pads to bolt the bed to the frame and hold the rear of the bed together.

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BED INSTALLATION AND WOOD SPACER BLOCKS:
The installation of the bed to the truck frame requires the installation of wooden block spaces under certain cross sill braces to level the bed on the Advance Design frame. The spacers are required to raise the bed floor higher to clear the frame kick up at the axle centerline for rear end axle travel. The cross sills must therefore be placed in the correct position in relation to the frame for correct bed support.
FIRST CROSS SILL:

Probably the easiest of all the cross sills to install because it's bolted to the front bed panel. This cross sill is also drilled for the front bed to frame mounting bolts to pass through. This cross sill requires a 2" wood spacer and a 12 inch long 3/8 carriage bolt to pass all the way through the frame and tighten to the lower edge of the frame. The 1947-53 requires the 12" bolt while the 1954-55 1st Series only requires the 6" bolt.

SECOND CROSS SILL:

This cross sill only bolts to the lower side of the wood and not the frame. The cross sill adds support to the wood to avoid cupping. It's bolted just in front of the frame kick up and when installed will be just above the frame by 1/2" or so and only contacts the frame when a heavy load is encountered.

***** The 1947-48 trucks will have the additional cross sill before the frame kick up *****
THIRD CROSS SILL:

This cross sill installs like #1 described above with a 2" wooden block and secured with a carriage bolt which ends just below the top frame edge. This sill is located just behind the frame kick up and it's placement can be easily determined by locating the frame hole behind the kick up which is where the carriage hold down bolt will pass through.

***** The 3/4 ton trucks will have the additional cross sill behind the frame kick up *****
FORTH CROSS SILL:

This cross sill is basically the back section of the bed that holds the sides together. The rear sill has a metal pad welded to the cross sill so no wooden block is required to level the bed, only a rubber vibration pad to eliminate squeaks.


SPECIAL NOTES:

All bolts that secure the bed to the frame will require the special shaped bed washer to keep the bolt from turning when tightening.
The bed washer is countersunk into the wood for a flush fit.
The 1954 cross sills are taller then the 1947-53 cross sills due to the change in frame design and the elimination of the bed wood spacers.



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MATERIAL SUPPLIERS:
Practically all the major parts suppliers will carry bed wood kits to complete your project. Review the parts supplier page to find a vendor in your area.

[snoopy0775]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

See if this helps!
I had this saved for future use but I DID NOT save the authors info

Thanks for this great help!!!! That was i´m looking for..thanks.

HAPPY NEW YEAR, Robin

[snoopy0775]

Hi,
after a long time without news from me i´m come back to my thread with some very bad and sad news:
Last Wednesday i was taking home my rolling and assembled Chassis from the bodyshop..the guys there have done many hours of good bodywork. For example they mounted the hole front (fenders, hood, radiator support etc) to arrange and look after an equal clearance on all sides/body parts.
Now, after all this work was done i was taking home my rolling chassis (reassembled the bodyparts like cab, hood etc) to bring it in the save garage for the day assembly would be start.
When i was home and trying to unload the Chassis from the trailer the disaster starts at the point, where the hook from the cable winch released from the belt with which the Chassis was hold to the winch. :-(
Now the Chassis was rolling down the lifted trailer, the front end running sideways of the trailer and the whole Chassis was falling down to the ground. Just a tick later the falling Chassis was "catched/slowed down" by the front end of the frame. :-((
The result of this accident:
Badly deformed front end (axle and frame ends), partially damaged powder-coating, damaged control arms, damaged oilpan and partially damaged stearing gear.

I can´t tell you how frustrated i am :-((( this accident broke my heart....all the time, all the money (oh a lot of money i can tell), all the excellent work just destroid in a few seconds.
The oncoming week i will going to measure if i can repair it again or if this project is going to it´s badest end....picture will follow.

Regards from germany,
yours Robin

PS: Sorry for my bad bad english....i know it´s not perfect, but i´ll hope you understand whats going on last week.

[watahyahknow]

sorry to hear about it , i hope things will turn out ok in the long run , maibe youre able to get some of the damage repaid from insurance alltough i wouldnt know how to play it (like car insurance or the rental insirance of the trailer or the houseinsurance .. watever ) it might work if youre creative in telling the truth

[NONHOG]

Sorry to hear about the set back, hope things turn around for you soon.
Its going to be very cool when your done!

[OrrieG]

OUCH, that is not good. I don't know how Europe works but is there any chance any insurance could help? In my case my truck in pieces is insured under my homeowners policy as parts until it becomes a running rolling chassis, then I need to activate liability and comp coverage. Maybe your auto policy would cover since it was related to being towed? That would at least take the sting out financially. Step back, take a deep breath, and contact the company that did the work, they might cut you a deal on redoing it to see the project to completion. Regardless, we feel your pain and are here for moral support.

[snoopy0775]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

OUCH, that is not good. I don't know how Europe works but is there any chance any insurance could help? In my case my truck in pieces is insured under my homeowners policy as parts until it becomes a running rolling chassis, then I need to activate liability and comp coverage. Maybe your auto policy would cover since it was related to being towed? That would at least take the sting out financially. Step back, take a deep breath, and contact the company that did the work, they might cut you a deal on redoing it to see the project to completion. Regardless, we feel your pain and are here for moral support.

Thanks for your moral support...i also think on the insurance to help but badly i´ve stopped the Chevy Insurance at the beginning of the restauration three years ago. Also the insurance from the trailer don´t help because it´s the trailer from a local Car-Rental-Station and they have a big deductible.

So it looks like that i have pay for this disaster by my own :-(

[solidaxel]

In english or german ,....................THAT REALLY SUCKS !!!!!!!!!


Look beyond, it will come together again.

[snoopy0775]

Hello,

now i have detailed looked and checked the Chassis...and it seems that i´ve got off lightly...deforming starts fortunately at the c-notch over the steering gear till to the front end of the frame rails...section behind the c-notch is not deformed.
Rright frame rail is about 2.35 inch in height and 0.8 inch to the side out of shape; left frame rail is a little bit twisted...powder-coating on the scratched areas is destroyed.
The other damaged/destoyed things are:
-> Engine transmission is scratched (paint is destroyed in this area).
-> OilPan is scratched (paint is destroyed)
-> Right control arm has also scratched (destroyed powder-coating)
-> Steering gear is scratched and one oil pipe is destroyed

This is the frame looks now from the right :-/

other news:
Cab is almost welded...dash is extended (for Climate and airride-control-panels) -- only last details must be done and a few holes must be closed....Pictures will follow (perhaps next weekend).

Regards from germany,
Robin

[watahyahknow]

you might be able to get the back in shape youreself with some chains eyelets bolted intoo a big slab of concrete pieces of wood scaffoldingpipe and a big bottle jack .
if you go eazy you might even keep the coating as good as it is now

use the eyelets and the chain to hold the chassis down on the concrete slab/floor at the start of the bend put the jack at the end and start jacking it up , let the jack go down once in a while to measure and start over to bring some heat in and stop the metal from cracking , for the twist you need the scafoldpole with a fork welded on the end that slides over the chassis either use two (one at each side of the twist ) and use some grunt to twist the oposite or use or use one as a big lever .
go little steps and watch out that nothing hits you in any parts that hurt

[OrrieG]

Collision/Frame shop should be able to straighten that out without any problems. I think the newer ones use laser to make sure everything is in spec. Remember, these trucks were riveted together so the frames would have some flex when used on rough road, fields, etc. I've had mine torqued like a corkscrew on some knarly back roads.

[snoopy0775]

Hello everybody,

as i promised you here the pictures from my welded cab....sorry for the bad quality - i´ve had only my mobile phone with me.
Next weekend i´ll take my camera to the garage and shot again some better pictures.

Greetings from germany,
Robin

[snoopy0775]

...

[LEEVON]

Robin, so sorry to hear about your mishap. I like what you're doing with the truck, it's going to be the best in Germany without a doubt.

[snoopy0775]

Originally Posted by LEEVON

Robin, so sorry to hear about your mishap. I like what you're doing with the truck, it's going to be the best in Germany without a doubt.

thanks for your kind words ;-) ....have a nice weekend / sunday

[snoopy0775]

...a few new pics... i have the cab quickly primed, project is still on hold because of less money and the missing place, where i can do all the oncoming work. :-((((

Regards from germany, Robin

[snoopy0775]

one more

[Matshark]

Hallo Robin, sieht doch wirklich gut aus !
Würde mir sehr gerne dein Projekt mal ansehen.

[snoopy0775]

Servus,
Danke für das Kompliment...leider hat sich bis heute nichts weiterentwickelt, da es hauptsächlich an dem nötigen Kleingeld fürs (teure) Hobby fehlt.
Chassis ist (seitdem es vom Anhänger fiel) eingemottet, das Cab unter Planen begraben. Hab letztens lediglich mal die Ladefläche zusammengeschraubt.
Ansonsten aber hat sich wie gesagt nichts mehr getan. :-/

MfG

[watahyahknow]

if you need to find someone importing parts for you at a reasonable rate i know someone who lives in belgium ans has a place in arizona and poland , not exactly on youre doorstep but close enough to drive , he hasnt let me down yet

[snoopy0775]

Hi,
i need some help please:
Where can i find original seat tracks/sliders for my 54 build truck? Or do you know any company which reproduce sliders for attaching on the OEM attaching points because i don´t want to cut the welded floor wall you can see in the cab-pictures o added in one of my last quotes above.
Would be kind to get some help...thanks.

Regards from Germany, Robin.

[Daze57]

very sorry for your mishap! the primered cab looks real good -- good luck on gettin it all back together