The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-30-2005, 04:08 PM   #1
skokie
Registered User
 
skokie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,278
How do you change the fuel pump?

How do you change the fuel pump on a sbc 350?

Thanks
__________________
68 build thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234
skokie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 04:19 PM   #2
Brainchild
Still drivin' a Rat Rod
 
Brainchild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Monett Missouri
Posts: 4,924
OBviously you pull the old one off.On the front of the engine behind the lower rad hose is a bolt on the lower side beside the timing cover,that appears to have no function,pull it out,and screw in a longer bolt while holding up on the fuel pump pushrod.The bolt will tighten against the rod,and hold it in place.Don't overtighten,and bend the rod,just enough pressure to hold it in place.
Then replace the pump,and lines,and remove the bolt,replace with original bolt,and that's it.
__________________
Rusty Member #13872
Instead of saying.....you are a discomfort in the back of my front.....one should be able to say...... you are a pain in the *a$#*

71 GMC LWB
49 Chevy
85 Chevy G20

Check out my website
Brainchild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 04:34 PM   #3
skokie
Registered User
 
skokie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,278
Thanks Brainchild. It seems pretty simple. I am going to go pick one up later today and I will be taking my metal fuel line with me to make sure
__________________
68 build thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234
skokie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 04:38 PM   #4
Fred T
Cantankerous Geezer
 
Fred T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bel Aire, KS
Posts: 6,265
I didn't know about the bolt trick. I have always removed the mounting plate and greased the rod, which will hold it in place while you install the pump and plate assembled.
__________________
Fred

There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.
Fred T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 04:53 PM   #5
toms68cst
Registered User
 
toms68cst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 3,966
You might want to uncouple the gas line behind the seat. On mine anyways there is a coupling right above the tank. This will prevent the gas line from siphoning when you undo it from the gas pump. Also undo your gas cap. If there's any pressure in the tank it will be relieved. I know this is a problem from experience!
__________________
Unrestored 68 C-10 CST. Original 327. 4-Speed CH465. 50k or so miles.

TREASURER, Drum Brake Club.
toms68cst is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 05:27 PM   #6
WRMZ71
Cause the Chicks DIG IT!!
 
WRMZ71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Beaufort SC
Posts: 509
I've never heard of that before toms and i guess i've never had that problem before. But hey i guess you learn something new everyday. I didn't know about that bolt in the front of the block for awhile and it always pissed me off i'd want to change the fuel pump and buy just the 1 gasket, but that rod would fall and i couldn't get it back up without taking off the plate and then i'd be short a gasket.
WRMZ71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 06:48 PM   #7
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
Longhorn Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,700
Yup, on the small blocks, you can remove said bolt and install a longer one. I think on the big blocks, you don't have that option.
Sometimes when the engine is in certian cars, you can't quite access the bolt. You then have two options.
1. Grease. Use a big 'ole blob od chassis grease, and cover the end of the rod...shofe that rod up in the cavity. The grease will give a you little time to get everything together. Right before you stick the pump in there, poke your finger in and make sure the rod is in the up position.
2. Use a hack saw blade to hild the rod up as you slide the pump in. Bending the blade a bit helps quite a bit.
Attached Images
     
Longhorn Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 06:50 PM   #8
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
Longhorn Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,700
I also like putting a dab of lubriplate grease (white lithium) on the ends of the rod too. If you have to do the blob of grease trick, then you can skip this on the upper end, but it is still a good idea to coat the lower section. The fuel pump arm is one of the last places to recieve oil, so it runs dry a bit longer than everything else.
I always keep a small pill bottle full of the white grease in my tol cart. I like to lube everything like this when they go together.
Attached Images
 
Longhorn Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 07:30 PM   #9
RainFade
Registered User
 
RainFade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 215
Man that is timing was going to replace my pump this week !
What pumps are working well for you guys, I don't trust the autozone $12.00 special and wonder if say one from NAPA would be good ?
__________________
71 K20 350/350/205, dealer air, 4" lift, Flowtech,Edel 1406 on 2101, procomp HEI,4.10's, 33x12.50x16.5 BFG MT's on slots. 4 wheel disc brakes.

My lame K20 page

My lame Eaton disc brake page

RainFade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 07:55 PM   #10
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
Longhorn Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,700
I used an $8 OEM replacement from Advance Auto...or what ever they were called when they were still part of Sears back in 97. I used it right up untill I blew my engine last October. ChevyE has it on the 305 that was in there when i sold it and I'm willing to bet it has another 5 to 10 years in it.
Longhorn Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 08:01 PM   #11
70c10
67-72 Addict!
 
70c10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The TAX State!
Posts: 7,857
I knew about the grease blob trick but didn't know about Brainchild's bolt trick. Thanks for posting those pics Andy!
__________________
Jim

1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames
Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked)
355/350 Turbo w/shift kit
10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall
Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1
Performer RPM Air-Gap
12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi
Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads
70c10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 08:04 PM   #12
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
Longhorn Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,700
Sure thing...that's why i took them.
Longhorn Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 08:21 PM   #13
skokie
Registered User
 
skokie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,278
I have the new fuel pump. Its for a 69 350 and it's ports are both 3/8. The problem I am running into is that my fuel lines are all 5/16. I found out that the 307 (the engine my truck came with) uses 5/16 lines. Unless there is a way that I dont know of (very likely) I am going to have to redo the fuel line from the pump to the tank. Any suggestions
__________________
68 build thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234
skokie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 09:30 PM   #14
Fred T
Cantankerous Geezer
 
Fred T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bel Aire, KS
Posts: 6,265
You should be able to use your 5/16 fittings on the new pump, I believe. I think they both use 1/4" pipe fittings. Depends on how much work you want to do. If the truck is apart, I would bend a new line, or buy a prebent.

On the bolt at the fuel pump, the holes on my block do not go through into the crankcase, so the bolt doesn't work on all small blocks.
__________________
Fred

There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.
Fred T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 09:34 PM   #15
Brainchild
Still drivin' a Rat Rod
 
Brainchild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Monett Missouri
Posts: 4,924
Maybe this one should be in the FAQ section if it isn't already.
__________________
Rusty Member #13872
Instead of saying.....you are a discomfort in the back of my front.....one should be able to say...... you are a pain in the *a$#*

71 GMC LWB
49 Chevy
85 Chevy G20

Check out my website
Brainchild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 09:45 PM   #16
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
Longhorn Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,700
it is.
Longhorn Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 10:34 PM   #17
86SILVERADO
Registered User
 
86SILVERADO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Hills of Western Mass
Posts: 626
My guess is you have a 67 or 68 with a single line from the tank you bought a fuel pump for a 69 350 because that was the first year for a 350 and that is what you are putting in the truck. You probably now have a pump with a return line which you do not need. You should buy a pump with no return line even though it is going on a 350 because you do not have a return line going to the original fuel tank. Then you will have the one port that should attach to the tank line with a 8" or so piece of rubber fuel line and the threaded fitting that you will thread the 5/16 steel line into that goes to the carb.
__________________
86 Silverado C10 back to 305 power!

67 C30 Dually Dump, with 350 transplant, Rockhauler

05 Duramax 3500

"If at first you don't succeed, try a bigger hammer"

Member of the 1-Ton club!
86SILVERADO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 10:49 PM   #18
mrein3
Registered User
 
mrein3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Center City, MN, USA
Posts: 3,178
Quote:
Originally Posted by toms68cst
You might want to uncouple the gas line behind the seat. On mine anyways there is a coupling right above the tank. This will prevent the gas line from siphoning when you undo it from the gas pump. Also undo your gas cap. If there's any pressure in the tank it will be relieved. I know this is a problem from experience!
Or just take your long nose vise grips and pinch the rubber fuel hose between the metal line from the tank the the fuel pump inlet connection before you loosen the hose clamp on the inlet.
__________________
'70 cab, '71 chassis, 383, TH350, NP205.
'71 Malibu convertible
'72 Malibu hard top
Center City, MN
mrein3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 10:52 PM   #19
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
Longhorn Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,700
A 69 won't have a return line.
If I'm not mistaken, all inline trucks and 2bbl small blocks came with 5/16ths fuel line, while the 4bbl trucks had 3/8 fuel line.
I suspect the v-6 trucks were all 3/8 also, only becouse my old 69 GMC originally with a 305 had 3/8 line all the way to the tank, and the PO was way too lazy to replace that much fuel line.
Longhorn Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 10:53 PM   #20
72402
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cameron, Oklahoma
Posts: 199
Fuel pump install

Brainchild; You left out one small detail about the bolt trick. You need to roll the engine over until the rod is all the way to the top, then lock it with t
he bolt. That'll keep the pressure off the lever while you bolt it up. Frank


Skokie; Sorry I didn't get back to you in the earlier thread. I had to leave for a while.

Last edited by 72402; 01-30-2005 at 11:03 PM. Reason: add info
72402 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 11:48 PM   #21
86SILVERADO
Registered User
 
86SILVERADO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Hills of Western Mass
Posts: 626
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longhorn Man
A 69 won't have a return line.
If I'm not mistaken, all inline trucks and 2bbl small blocks came with 5/16ths fuel line, while the 4bbl trucks had 3/8 fuel line.
I suspect the v-6 trucks were all 3/8 also, only becouse my old 69 GMC originally with a 305 had 3/8 line all the way to the tank, and the PO was way too lazy to replace that much fuel line.

Thanks for the info Andy. I didn't think it would either but I wasn't sure. It just sounded like he had gotten a pump with a return line for some reason.
__________________
86 Silverado C10 back to 305 power!

67 C30 Dually Dump, with 350 transplant, Rockhauler

05 Duramax 3500

"If at first you don't succeed, try a bigger hammer"

Member of the 1-Ton club!
86SILVERADO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2005, 11:57 PM   #22
skokie
Registered User
 
skokie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,278
Heres a pic of the pump. From what I can see it has a tank line and carb line. And yes I used 69 350 68 327 and 68 307. The 327 and 350 were the same pn# but the 307 was different. The pump I have installed now has a 5/16 tank line on it. The new pump is 3/8. What size is the metal line going back to the tank?
Attached Images
 
__________________
68 build thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234

Last edited by skokie; 01-31-2005 at 12:00 AM.
skokie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2005, 07:50 AM   #23
Tx Firefighter
Watch out for your cornhole !
 
Tx Firefighter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 14,059
On your 307 truck, you'll probably have a 5/16 line to the tank.

Just take a piece of 5/16 hose and connect it to the metal line under the truck and push like hell till it slides up on the 3/8 fitting on the new pump. Secure with a clamp and forget about it.
__________________
Kevin - Sorry for going MIA. Photobucket wasted most of my contributions to forum boards. You can find me working on different projects on Instagram, link below...
My Instagram
Tx Firefighter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2005, 09:05 AM   #24
GMC AMI
Registered User
 
GMC AMI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: The Other Maine!
Posts: 2,236
Another fan of the grease trick. Great PICS Andy! Good luck Brad, it's an easy swap.
__________________
1968 Chevy 4x4 307 4 speed
GMC AMI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2005, 12:38 PM   #25
skokie
Registered User
 
skokie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,278
Thanks Giuys. Appreciate the help.
__________________
68 build thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234
skokie is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2013 67-72chevytrucks.com