The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-05-2002, 04:23 AM   #1
JVictor75
Maintenance Man
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Phoenix, AZ US
Posts: 213
Question Exhaust problems.....

Hey guys.....

It's been a looooooong while since I visited the board. Not cuz I don't like you guys, but because I've been having money problems and it's just too depressing to read about you all doing what you love with your trucks....

Enough whinin' on my part though, I've got a couple of questions...

I went out and found a good condition right exhaust manifold to replace my cracked one with (we're talking the passenger side of a small block here). I went ahead and installed it then drove to Austin Texas for the holidays.

Thats about a 110 to 120 mile trip for me.

When I got to Austin, my new exhaust manifold was cracked just like my old one was.... do you all have any idea what the deal is? It's cracking right above where the studs screw into the manifold, you know the "neck" of the manifold where all of the tubes meet. The collector if you will.... Yeah it's cracking right at the bottom of that area.

Is this normal and I'll just have to patch it until I can afford to put a set of headers on the truck or what? And if I do have to wait, what should I be looking at for cost to install the headers. The truck already has an aftermarket dual exhaust with flowmaster 40's and 2 1/2" tubing.

(I'd do it myself but my apartment complex has Nazis for caretaking staff and I cant do much more then change my air filter.)
JVictor75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2002, 04:45 AM   #2
HotRod929
Registered User
 
HotRod929's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Bondurant, IA but in Worcester, MA for school
Posts: 767
I dont know but could you possibly be torqueing the bolts down too tight? Or the exhaust ports on the heads are not all even so there is space so when u crank down the bolts to seal it it just cracks shortly under the pressure of the bolts.


HotRod
__________________
1970 Chevy C-20
350 V-8
Turbo 350 w/ shift kit
Dana 60 w/ 4.10 gears AND Powr-Loc POSI
New Additions:
Summit Headers
135amp alternator
Proform HEI
Edelbrock 1406 600cfm carb
Sunpro Tach
Powr-Loc POSI
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake
MSD 6A Ignition Box

AIM: HotRod929

Visit My Site: http://1970chevy.netfirms.com/
HotRod929 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2002, 05:10 AM   #3
Project1970
14.1 @ 96MPH
 
Project1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 2,811
From his description, I think he means down away from the mounts, closer to the exhaust pipe itself...my passenger side manifold is cracked there too (but not through yet...) and from what I can tell it's a very common problem.

It's probably got something to do with the fact that they're 30 to 35 years old and I bet a lot of heat gathers right in that area quickly, seeing as it's the first spot where the exhaust gas from all cylinders on the side comes together...

Headers aren't looking cheap...I want to get some myself...coated headers look to run $180 minimum...add to that good gaskets, good mounting hardware, an A/C adapter bracket, and a new exhaust system (in my case...you could get away with the minimum of mods to hook the headers to the exhaust, from the sound of it) and I'm looking in the $600 to $700 range.
__________________
Project1970 - LS1 Swap Complete!
Project1970 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2002, 07:54 AM   #4
jerry moss
Born Psycho
 
jerry moss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: brentwood,cal,usa
Posts: 4,897
Lightbulb

sounds to me as if your exhaust system is either in a bind some way, not enough hangers installed or is being hit by the rear differential when you hit bumps.
__________________
jerry moss
72 cheyenne super K20- tilt,tach,vacuum,speedwarning,buckets,shoulder belts,am/fm,tow hooks,bumper guards,toolbox,aux. fuel tank,posi front and rear,plus other goodies!!! SOLD
69 suburban K20-tilt,tach,vacuum,speedwarning,buckets,shoulder belts,am/fm,4 inch all spring lift,4 speed, 14 bolt full floater, dana 44 HD,warn winch,posi front and rear,tow hooks,plus other goodies.
73/80 chevy/gmc K20 SB400,turbo 400,205,tilt,a-c,gas hog.
77 K/5 cheyenne blazer-daily driver/beater. SON HAS IT NOW
BRENTWOOD,CALIFORNIA
jerry moss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2002, 08:41 AM   #5
JimKshortstep4x4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Muskegon,MI,USA
Posts: 6,026
Smile

This may be a long shot, but what you are describing sounds like a heat problem. I would suggest checking the initial timing setting and the mechanical advance. If the timing is retarded it will cause more heat to go into the manifold causing it to grow especially at the spot where the cracks are occurring.

Jim
JimKshortstep4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2002, 10:23 AM   #6
Crank
Registered User
 
Crank's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Crittenden, KY
Posts: 1,965
Possibly you could have too much weight on the manifold from your exhaust system at the neck of the manifold. Possibly when you fix the problem go back and wire up something to hold up the exhaust from falling and putting excess weight on the manifold. Also maybe try the heat issue, it could be due to excess heat at the collector.
Brandon
Crank is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com