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Old 11-25-2011, 11:34 PM   #1
Bradydz
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Tie rods

Is changing the inner tie rod ends similar to changing out the outers? I have never done it, and want to know what I'm about to get into..
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Old 11-25-2011, 11:39 PM   #2
markeb01
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Re: Tie rods

I don't remember anything special about it. The most important point I can think of is to measure the length of each tie rod from zerk to zerk fitting, along with the overall length of the entire assembly. This will allow you to thread the new parts to the same length, keeping the toe setting reasonably close to its current position.

And I prefer using a tie rod puller instead of a pickle fork for separating the parts.
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Old 11-25-2011, 11:44 PM   #3
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Re: Tie rods

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Originally Posted by markeb01 View Post
I don't remember anything special about it. The most important point I can think of is to measure the length of each tie rod from zerk to zerk fitting, along with the overall length of the entire assembly. This will allow you to thread the new parts to the same length, keeping the toe setting reasonably close to its current position.

And I prefer using a tie rod puller instead of a pickle fork for separating the parts.
I do plan on taking it down to be aligned after, but I will try my best to keep it what I have it at now.
Do you need a pickle fork/tie-rod puller? because I just taped the old outer end out with a mini-sledge on the passenger side a few days ago, and didn't have a problem with it.. Or is it more difficult to do that with the inners?
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Old 11-25-2011, 11:47 PM   #4
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Re: Tie rods

The inners are no more difficult than the outers. Some just stick worse than others. If you don’t have a puller or a pickle fork, holding a sledge hammer against one side of the receptacle and whacking the other side with a big hammer usually pops them right apart.
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Old 11-25-2011, 11:52 PM   #5
Bradydz
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Re: Tie rods

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Originally Posted by markeb01 View Post
The inners are no more difficult than the outers. Some just stick worse than others. If you don’t have a puller or a pickle fork, holding a sledge hammer against one side of the receptacle and whacking the other side with a big hammer usually pops them right apart.
Since the truck is my daily driver, and I don't have any other vehicle, I was just a little nervous that I'd get into something that would stop me from being able to go to work. But now I feel a lot better about it, thanks! I believe I'll get it done, and let you know how it goes!
Also, will it hurt if I don't grease the zerks until I drive 11 miles to my work? We have grease there, but I don't think my step-dad has any at his house..
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Old 11-26-2011, 12:17 AM   #6
markeb01
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Re: Tie rods

Most joints have some amount of assembly lube inside from the factory, but this may not be sufficient to prevent damage if driven even a short distance. While sitting in the box the grease is primarily to prevent corrosion. Placing the joint in service will apply pressure and stress, and without suitable lubricant may toast the parts in short order (like starting a new engine coated with assembly lube but no oil). I'd be inclined to buy a hand operated grease gun if no other is available, or see if there is a way you can do the installation at work.

Harbor Freight offers some inexpensive models:

http://www.harborfreight.com/grease-...ase-95575.html

Another thought is to take the new joints to work and pump them full of grease before installation. They will be messier to work with, but would certainly retain enough lubricant to make the 11 mile trip to work after they're installed.
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Old 11-26-2011, 12:24 AM   #7
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Re: Tie rods

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Originally Posted by markeb01 View Post
Most joints have some amount of assembly lube inside from the factory, but this may not be sufficient to prevent damage if driven even a short distance. While sitting in the box the grease is primarily to prevent corrosion. Placing the joint in service will apply pressure and stress, and without suitable lubricant may toast the parts in short order (like starting a new engine coated with assembly lube but no oil). I'd be inclined to buy a hand operated grease gun if no other is available, or see if there is a way you can do the installation at work.

Harbor Freight offers some inexpensive models:

http://www.harborfreight.com/grease-...ase-95575.html

Another thought is to take the new joints to work and pump them full of grease before installation. They will be messier to work with, but would certainly retain enough lubricant to make the 11 mile trip to work after they're installed.
I'm quite glad I asked, seeing as the inner ends aren't cheap. Thank you again, I'll pick a gun up before I install them!
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