1957 Chevy 4x4 NAPCO conversion...

[the1ted]

This truck came to me in 1985 from a newspaper ad from a local bank that took it as collateral on a failed loan. It was listed as an original 4x4. The story I got with it was a local guy had hunted in Idaho every year and saw this at an Idaho Forrestry Service garage rusting away. After pleading to buy it they finally produced a title and he towed it back to Branson MO.
They did a great interior, paint and chrome but the drivetrain remained untouched. I tore it down to bare frame last year and soon discovered the first sign that it wasn't a factory as I had always believed. When I pulled up the carpet the slot in the tunnel was a rough hack job (literally) to allow for the cast transfer case shifter. More became apparent as I got to the frame mount for the shifter and found the holes literally blown out with a torch for the mount-same thing with the transfer case.
I am new at this posting stuff so I am attaching one image of the frame after straightening and sand blasting I had it powder coated with gloss black. The orange tape is day-glo duct tape I got at the hardware store. If you are like me you know the pain of catching a leg or arm on the mounts that extend out from the rails. The second image is the cast frame shifter mount.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by the1ted

This truck came to me in 1985 from a newspaper ad from a local bank that took it as collateral on a failed loan. It was listed as an original 4x4. The story I got with it was a local guy had hunted in Idaho every year and saw this at an Idaho Forrestry Service garage rusting away. After pleading to buy it they finally produced a title and he towed it back to Branson MO.
They did a great interior, paint and chrome but the drivetrain remained untouched. I tore it down to bare frame last year and soon discovered the first sign that it wasn't a factory as I had always believed. When I pulled up the carpet the slot in the tunnel was a rough hack job (literally) to allow for the cast transfer case shifter. More became apparent as I got to the frame mount for the shifter and found the holes literally blown out with a torch for the mount-same thing with the transfer case.
I am new at this posting stuff so I am attaching one image of the frame after straightening and sand blasting I had it powder coated with gloss black. The orange tape is day-glo duct tape I got at the hardware store. If you are like me you know the pain of catching a leg or arm on the mounts that extend out from the rails. The second image is the cast frame shifter mount.

the1Ted: Nice build. Keep the photos coming. Dug

[the1ted]

Dug-thanks for the help with finding and posting on this forum. You da man!

[LEEVON]

Nice! and welcome from Nixa!

[dug224]

t1t: Here to serve. Anything to get one more guy addicted to the build. Like I believe I read in LEEVON's thread, this things holds you accountable which helps me keep my build moving. Dug

[the1ted]

In the photos it shows the untouched frame without the body and motor. The bell housing had stripped threads on the passenger side mount and someone had replaced the bolt with an undersized longer bolt and a flat washer and nut run through the crossmember and bell housing. I removed and cleaned the housing and after sandblasting took it to the engine shop to have it magnafluxed. Three cracks appeared-likely due to the previous fix I mentioned. I got a later model housing to replace it and chromed the shift lever and ball it pivots on to build them up from wear and provide a mooth surface for future use.
The next photo shows the crossmember where the transfer case mounts. You can see the torched holes for mounting. After I rebuilt the transfer (Spicer 23) and replaced the mounts with neoprene bushings I had made from the old bushing as a pattern, I used a transmission jack to hold the case against the frame and tack welded thick grade 8 flat washers which were later welded to the crossmember. I took a number of phtos of the frame to have some record of where things go for the rebuild; i.e. clutch linkage, brakes (including emergency cables and brackets), and steering box.

[the1ted]

Here are 2 more pics from just minutes ago-hot off the presses! My decision on the bell housing (you can see the chromed arm below) and inner fenders + core support was satin black vs gloss. I think it shows the shiny engine parts better.
The transfer case is painted with Rust-oleum Regal Red which I will use on the 4-speed transmission too. One hint to building I got from an old engineer: Whenever you bolt thru a frame, always use a star washer under the head of a bolt. There is actually a small radius from the bolt head to the shaft and this eliminates the bolt 'walking out' of the mount-particularly when splicing frame rails.

[OrrieG]

Going to follow this. It was probably either a dealer conversion or someone swapped it out of another truck. They were marketed as being able to be installed on the ranch and transfered to your new Chevy or GMC truck as you traded up. That is the reason I have never owned a cutting torch, I have had to fix to many screwups from folks grabbing the torch to save time and labor.

[the1ted]

Here is some more 'Smoke Wrench' art where the bracket for the t-case shifter (pictured earlier) was mounted. My sense is that they ordered this kit and did a home made install as you guessed. Reason for that is that the first attempt didn't line up, so they held the cast piece up against the frame and burned the holes thru it as a guide. I had to take the piece (before blast and powder coat) to a machine shop to have it 'filled and drilled' as they put it. We flipped the frame and did the same repair as the transfer case cross member and then filled in weld from above when we turned it back upright.

[the1ted]

Here is the motor for the truck and the exhaust system. Thank God for rafters, rope and pulleys! The exhaust is a bolt-up fit since I used it on the earlier version. The exhaust is 3 inch pipe attached to Corvette cast exhaust manifolds recommended by the engine builder to move the heat away from the motor. Superchargers make a lot of heat! The manifolds are HPC coated inside and out for maximum flow.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Going to follow this. It was probably either a dealer conversion or someone swapped it out of another truck. They were marketed as being able to be installed on the ranch and transfered to your new Chevy or GMC truck as you traded up. That is the reason I have never owned a cutting torch, I have had to fix to many screwups from folks grabbing the torch to save time and labor.

OrrieG: I will be watching this one too. Can't wait for the1ted to put up photos of some of his old, let's say, taller trucks. You will then see the disire for him to have a blower. Dug

[gearhead72]

Welcome aboard to the board Ted. I see you have made some progress since the last time I was out there.

[the1ted]

You were the first guy to reccomend this site. It is a great community and I look forward to a long future with it!

[gearhead72]

This is a very good sight with lots of knowledgeable fellow gearheads like us who are dedicated to there craft.

[the1ted]

Made a big decision on the '57 truck-decided to go with 3/4 ton NAPCO axles. Since this truck is not a factory 4x4 and missing the GVW (see photos) plate on the inside of the driver's door frame, it is an easy swap. The picture shows that there was never one attached at this location, the rivet holes show no distortion and there is no faint outline in the metal or paint. This is likely due to the truck being ordered by the USFS. The other item that would not fit would the the L & R Chevrolet 3100 front fender badges. I had already spent a lot to re-chrome and get these painted, but I can save them for a future project. I found a set of 3600's on eBay and as you can see they need work. The next hurdle is the drive shafts, having to rebuild them with larger yokes at the axles. And finally the hardware to mount the axles with larger U-bolts. More on that later, a problem solved by dug224!

[dug224]

Details details...keep it up. Need more pictures. Dug

[the1ted]

I'm reusing the eBay photo of the 3600 fender emblem to show something I learned from the plating guy. To distinguish original pieces from reproduction always look for the joint between the numbers and the Chevrolet. Later stuff is smooth. Some people prefer to have him buff it smooth, but my choice is to keep the period look!

[the1ted]

I wanted to post one more photo I took today. These are the 3 outer pieces that will show on the front axle hubs. The hubs are period and match the 1/2 ton lockouts I have. These have gone for polish and I will picture them when they return from that.

[wayne4252004]

Great looking ride keep the pics coming.

[the1ted]

Here is a photo of 2 neoprene parts I had made locally. The bump stops are styled different than original simply because the molds are gravity fed and made of aluminum, the difference allows a simpler milling of the mold. The transfer case mount bushings are identical to the hard rubber factory style.
The next photo is 3 stages of the 1/2 ton top plates that mount the front axles to the springs. On the far right is the passenger side, blasted and painted. The center is a casting I had to have made (from the good piece) at a nearby foundry as I could not find a used part to replace the driver's side plate, which you can see on the left with the shock U-bolt mount broken off.

[RockTonka]

Great build, thanks for sharing!!

[OrrieG]

Good job, nice to know there is still at least one foundary left in the US...

[mud.man.rj]

Nice build, will be watching with interest, love those trucks, especially fond of 4x4's.

[the1ted]

One critical process in doing this rebuild has been sandblasting. I have pictured a rear riser block showing the bottom where the pin that mounts to the axle has shifted-likely from loose U-bolts. You can also see wear and elongation of the U-bolt hole on bottom left. Next is the bottom plate from the same side that has a stress fracture developing that might have eventually failed and made the part unusable. The block will get a new pin and the bottom plate will be pressed flat again and welded to repair the crack. Both will get blasted and powder coated.
Last photo is of Oliver and Susan that own the sandblasting and powder coating business. They are holding a Jeep tailgate I just picked up. They have been wonderful to work with as it goes with taping surfaces you don't want blasted or painted.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by the1ted

Next is the bottom plate from the same side that has a stress fracture developing that might have eventually failed and made the part unusable. The block will get a new pin and the bottom plate will be pressed flat again and welded to repair the crack.

I sent you a PM on this.