panhard / track bar options ? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

sactoC10 · 09-09-2003, 02:00 PM

Another question...

Right now I am at a 3" drop int the rear via Eibach springs. I want to go another 1-1.5" at some point. Since the truck is not a daily driver, how bad would it be once I get it lower, to not have ANY track bar installed for a few months? And then, when it is time to get one, do I want the short adjustable panhard bar, or the longer track bar from Vintage Classic?

I won't ask any more (today anyway).

fastbagged68 · 09-09-2003, 02:33 PM

Dont even think about driving without a panhard bar! That would be very stupid! For another 120 bucks or so you can get the adjustable track bar. If you want another inch of drop go buy a block or make one and buy a track bar. If you can't afford it then wait till you can!
DO NOT RUN WITHOUT A PANHARD BAR

sactoC10 · 09-09-2003, 02:43 PM

Good answer, which creates more questions. What is the better item to have for the rear end, the longer adjustable track bar, or the shorter adjustable panhard bar?

Not all of the companies who offer lowering accesories note anything about the bar, so I was simply wondering.

Also, regarding the blocks...what are the exact dimensions for those blocks. I already have the bolts, no need spending money on something I can fabricate myself.

Thanks.

jamis · 09-09-2003, 03:03 PM

I thought a panhard bar or a track bar are the same things.
At least it does the same job, no matter where you put it or call it as long as it keeps the axle aligned.

fastbagged68 · 09-09-2003, 03:09 PM

Longer is better- less movement. If you have a short one it will move the rearend from side to side more then a long one would. The blocks depends on what size you run. I have seen guys run 1x1 square tubing for blocks so your u bolts would have to be about 1 inch longer. Make sense?

71chevylongbed · 09-09-2003, 10:36 PM

Use a panhard bar with drops of 4 inches or less, use a track bar with drops of 5 inches or more.

SCOTI · 09-09-2003, 11:02 PM

Panhard bars & track bars are the same thing like sway bars & anti roll bars. The good thing about an adjustable one is it will work @ the current height & can be adjusted shorter when you go lower. The longer the bar, the less side to side movement from the rear end when the suspension goes through its travel. A short bar works fine as long as suspension travel isn't extreme.

nate68 · 09-11-2003, 01:20 AM

with a 4" drop in the back i went from the stock one to the track bar kit. huge difference. it is also a must when you put a 9 inch in because they don't have the mount for the stock type

CoryM · 09-11-2003, 01:33 AM

Longer is better as the longer the panhard, the less it arcs for the same amount of travel. IN other words if you run a long bar and have 4" of travel the bar will allow the rear end to move sideways maybe 1/8" as the bar arcs. With a short bar the rear end will move sideways more. Other options are watts link, jacobs ladder etc but unless you are really playing you will never notice the difference. As for the lowering blocks I would assume for a 1" drop youd want 1" block

.
CoryM

68 Suburban · 09-11-2003, 03:25 AM

How do you know where to adjust the bar to?

SCOTI · 09-11-2003, 07:03 AM

Center the rear housing @ ride height, then adj the panhard bar to that length. As the truck travels up & down through compression & rebound, it should move only a slight amount side to side.

On my 68, I measured from the back sidewall of the rear tires to the frame on each side & shifted the rear end around to get them equal @ ride height. With the bar hooked to the rear end housing already, I adjusted the threads out until the holes lined up @ the frame & I could get a bolt through. Tighten the bolts on both ends of the bar, add a little lock-tite to the jam nut threads on the bar & tighten it down as well.

PR454SS · 09-13-2003, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by sactoC10
Another question...

Right now I am at a 3" drop int the rear via Eibach springs. I want to go another 1-1.5" at some point. Since the truck is not a daily driver, how bad would it be once I get it lower, to not have ANY track bar installed for a few months? And then, when it is time to get one, do I want the short adjustable panhard bar, or the longer track bar from Vintage Classic?

I won't ask any more (today anyway).

I would definitely agree with Fastbagged68 but you can get an adjustable track bar with bushings for 59 bucks at truckandcarshop.com for that price the safety risk isn't worth it

sactoC10 · 09-14-2003, 10:38 AM

Very well. I wasn't inclined to do it, just asking the question!!! Thanks.

09-09-2003, 02:00 PM	#1
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	panhard / track bar options ? Another question... Right now I am at a 3" drop int the rear via Eibach springs. I want to go another 1-1.5" at some point. Since the truck is not a daily driver, how bad would it be once I get it lower, to not have ANY track bar installed for a few months? And then, when it is time to get one, do I want the short adjustable panhard bar, or the longer track bar from Vintage Classic? I won't ask any more (today anyway).

09-09-2003, 03:03 PM	#4
jamis F.A.S.T. president Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 1,883	I thought a panhard bar or a track bar are the same things. At least it does the same job, no matter where you put it or call it as long as it keeps the axle aligned. Last edited by jamis; 09-09-2003 at 03:06 PM.

09-09-2003, 11:02 PM	#7
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,934	Panhard bars & track bars are the same thing like sway bars & anti roll bars. The good thing about an adjustable one is it will work @ the current height & can be adjusted shorter when you go lower. The longer the bar, the less side to side movement from the rear end when the suspension goes through its travel. A short bar works fine as long as suspension travel isn't extreme. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

09-11-2003, 01:20 AM	#8
nate68 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: ca Posts: 1,110	with a 4" drop in the back i went from the stock one to the track bar kit. huge difference. it is also a must when you put a 9 inch in because they don't have the mount for the stock type __________________ 68 short step, 406/700r4, 9" w/discs.

09-11-2003, 01:33 AM	#9
CoryM Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Surrey, B.C. , Canada Posts: 874	Longer is better as the longer the panhard, the less it arcs for the same amount of travel. IN other words if you run a long bar and have 4" of travel the bar will allow the rear end to move sideways maybe 1/8" as the bar arcs. With a short bar the rear end will move sideways more. Other options are watts link, jacobs ladder etc but unless you are really playing you will never notice the difference. As for the lowering blocks I would assume for a 1" drop youd want 1" block . CoryM __________________ 1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070 "Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw The torch; be yours to hold it high." Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, Canadian Army

09-09-2003, 02:33 PM	#2
fastbagged68 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Tri Valley California Posts: 792	Dont even think about driving without a panhard bar! That would be very stupid! For another 120 bucks or so you can get the adjustable track bar. If you want another inch of drop go buy a block or make one and buy a track bar. If you can't afford it then wait till you can! DO NOT RUN WITHOUT A PANHARD BAR

09-09-2003, 02:43 PM	#3
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	Good answer, which creates more questions. What is the better item to have for the rear end, the longer adjustable track bar, or the shorter adjustable panhard bar? Not all of the companies who offer lowering accesories note anything about the bar, so I was simply wondering. Also, regarding the blocks...what are the exact dimensions for those blocks. I already have the bolts, no need spending money on something I can fabricate myself. Thanks.

09-09-2003, 03:09 PM	#5
fastbagged68 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Tri Valley California Posts: 792	Longer is better- less movement. If you have a short one it will move the rearend from side to side more then a long one would. The blocks depends on what size you run. I have seen guys run 1x1 square tubing for blocks so your u bolts would have to be about 1 inch longer. Make sense?

09-09-2003, 10:36 PM	#6
71chevylongbed Got Horsepower? Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: IDAHO Posts: 406	Use a panhard bar with drops of 4 inches or less, use a track bar with drops of 5 inches or more.

09-11-2003, 03:25 AM	#10
68 Suburban Registered User Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: From Chicago, Live in Phoenix, AZ Posts: 6,802	How do you know where to adjust the bar to? __________________ Just sitting here contemplating contemplation.

09-11-2003, 07:03 AM	#11
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,934	Center the rear housing @ ride height, then adj the panhard bar to that length. As the truck travels up & down through compression & rebound, it should move only a slight amount side to side. On my 68, I measured from the back sidewall of the rear tires to the frame on each side & shifted the rear end around to get them equal @ ride height. With the bar hooked to the rear end housing already, I adjusted the threads out until the holes lined up @ the frame & I could get a bolt through. Tighten the bolts on both ends of the bar, add a little lock-tite to the jam nut threads on the bar & tighten it down as well. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

09-14-2003, 10:38 AM	#13
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	Very well. I wasn't inclined to do it, just asking the question!!! Thanks.



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