how to tell original vs aftermarket inner fenders

[bigrigpardo]

i just bought a big load of parts from a guy and it came with a very decent set of inner fenders only 2 small spots of rust between the 2. but I am not 100% sure if they are originals or not. are there any tell tale signs to know a repop? I would like to keep them for my resto down the road but only if I can be more certain that they are correct and will fit. I seen a repop one on a truck I sold and it fit like crap.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

My guess is the best indicator would be the mounting plates underneath the top portion of the fender. You might post pictures what yours look like. That said, GM may have sported some variances as well.

There might be a weight difference, but I know some replacements claim to use the same gauge steel. If I remember right, the original fenders are 9-10 lbs.

I haven't heard good things about replacements. Big bummer.

[saxart]

I would look for large rust holes throughout the front where they bolt to the bottom edge of the core support. If there are many large rust holes, they are factory original, if no holes, then they are repops.

[CaptRMW]

Mike 'em and post the thickness and we can likely sort it out. I have OEM that I will mike and post the thickness. I seriously doubt that the rice farmers are using the same gauge metal.

[FirstOwner69]

I used Tri Plus reproduction inner fenders on my truck. They actually weighed slightly more than the originals and fit very well. I think I only had to enlarge a couple holes slightly. I did not see any glaring differences between the repops and originals.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

I used Tri Plus reproduction inner fenders on my truck. They actually weighed slightly more than the originals and fit very well. I think I only had to enlarge a couple holes slightly. I did not see any glaring differences between the repops and originals.

Good to know Jim. Think I've read before some repops were thicker. How long ago did you buy em? These are sure sparkly: http://www.autometaldirect.com/tripl...ban-p-479.html

41 lbs. for one fender? What they do, build them of led?

Originally Posted by saxart

I would look for large rust holes throughout the front where they bolt to the bottom edge of the core support. If there are many large rust holes, they are factory original, if no holes, then they are repops.

Ha ha ha ha

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Good to know Jim. Think I've read before some repops were thicker. How long ago did you buy em? These are sure sparkly: http://www.autometaldirect.com/tripl...ban-p-479.html

I bought them in 2010 or 2011.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

I bought them in 2010 or 2011.

Interesting. I'll keep them in mind, because my RH fender may be beyond repair for super..... Someone hit a rock. By the time they're finished, just as well to buy replacements if they work.

[GASoline71]

When I first redid the front end of my truck back around 2008 I replaced the passenger side inner fender with one from the aftermarket. Fits like crap and took a lot of tweaking to get it to fit right. I always expect a little tweaking to get aftermarket tins to fit right, but c'mon! It took hourts to get this thing to line up right to bolt in. Even had to hog out a few of the holes.

I have recently replaced the drivers side inner fender about 3 months ago. New inner fender fit damn near like an OEM part! Had it bolted on in less than half an hour! I got it from Wes at Classic Heartbeat. So I have to say the quality and fit of the inner fenders has improved over the last 9 years.

Gary

[FirstOwner69]

IF I recall correctly, my original driver's side inner fender had 4 (3?) nuts welded to the underside for the bolts (circled in red) that attach the reinforcement shown in the picture below. The Tri Plus repops had the holes but no attached nuts. The hole for the alternator wire harness attachment circled in yellow may have also been missing. That may help the OP to I.D. his inner fenders (at least the left side) as original or repop.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

IF I recall correctly, my original driver's side inner fender had 4 (3?) nuts welded to the underside for the bolts (circled in red) that attach the reinforcement shown in the picture below. The Tri Plus repops had the holes but no attached nuts. The hole for the alternator wire harness attachment circled in yellow may have also been missing. That may help the OP to I.D. his inner fenders (at least the left side) as original or repop.

Good call. Four fixed nuts, or should be. Could be year variances, I suppose.

[CaptRMW]

Originally Posted by CaptRMW

Mike 'em and post the thickness and we can likely sort it out. I have OEM that I will mike and post the thickness. I seriously doubt that the rice farmers are using the same gauge metal.

OEM (Original Equipment) measures .043" thick. Post yours and state aftermarket or OEM.

[harpo231]

OEM not so good , they came with shims most of the time , so me thinks always expect fitment issues,

[GASoline71]

The aftermarket drivers side inner fender I Bought from Classic Heartbeat 2 months ago has the 4 nuts attacched to the fender to bolt the brace in place. However, they do not line up with the holes in my stock brace. I had to hog the holes out in the brace for it to fit.

Gary