Originally Posted by geezer#99 (Post 8926955)

If filter in carb was replaced was it installed right?
Sorry, delete that question. Filter must be good from your description.
Does your choke work?
Any fuel from the accelerator pump when you pump it first time when cold?
Could be leaking fuel bowl wells also.
That’s not normally a problem with your carb though.

How new is the fuel pump?

Originally Posted by geezer#99 (Post 8926990)

Yup!
Look in the carb. Hold the choke blade wide open. Stroke the throttle quickly. Look for fuel beside the boosters. Up near the top front. Should see two shots. One on each booster.
Ok 👍🏻
To check choke open throttle 1/4 way and choke flap should move and close off top of primaries.

Originally Posted by geezer#99 (Post 8927000)

Off.
Sometimes easier to use a small flashlight to see inside the carb.

Originally Posted by geezer#99 (Post 8927000)

Off.
Sometimes easier to use a small flashlight to see inside the carb.

Originally Posted by geezer#99 (Post 8927393)

It only squirts when you stroke the throttle
It should squirt every time you stroke it.
If not (like in your second test), then the pump well is low, float level is low. And possibly the check ball is stuck.
Will the choke blade close when you stroke the throttle?

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr (Post 8927398)

IIRC, there is a spring in with the fuel filter. Make sure you have it on the correct side of the filter. Also double check that the filter is going the right way.

I did this once when I was young and had to pay a mechanic to put it in right.

If you have a paper filter make sure the end with the hole is going towards the fuel line, opposite the spring.

Originally Posted by Captain J (Post 8927401)

The choke blade was wide open before I do the test, and stayed open while I moving the throttle.

Originally Posted by kwmech (Post 8927402)

Well plugs in the bottom of the bowl could be draining overnight. Quite common area to fix when rebuilding the carb. Mix up some JB weld--apply and wait a few hours

Originally Posted by geezer#99 (Post 8927408)

Should have closed.
We’ll help fix that but first a question.
When you do get it running and when driving down the road and you step on the pedal, do you feel a slight stumble?

Originally Posted by geezer#99 (Post 8927427)

The black cap on the side of the carb should have 3 screws on it. Loosen them and rotate the cap counter clockwise. Hold the throttle open and the choke blade should close. Turn it until it just closes then tighten the screws.
That should help starting.
I’d do that first.
If it helps the no start situation then you know the well are good.

Originally Posted by geezer#99 (Post 8927427)

The black cap on the side of the carb should have 3 screws on it. Loosen them and rotate the cap counter clockwise. Hold the throttle open and the choke blade should close. Turn it until it just closes then tighten the screws.
That should help starting.
I’d do that first.
If it helps the no start situation then you know the well are good.

Originally Posted by geezer#99 (Post 8927879)

Awesome!
Where in the world do you live?

Originally Posted by geezer#99 (Post 8927917)

If you’re curious about my location!
I live in a little village by the sea!
On the east coast of Vancouver Island. Province of British Columbia.
About 80 km due west of Vancouver across the water.
Very quiet here except for the sometimes fun of a big bird like this. Injured. Couldn’t fly. Eagle rescue caught her. They’ll fix her up and release her.

Wow, nice place & weather.
Beautiful Eagle, good for you, hope she’ll fly

The clunk you’re getting.
Is your truck 4 wheel drive?

Originally Posted by geezer#99 (Post 8927905)

A balmy 16C here this morning. Might get to 25C by end of day.

If you have a two piece driveshaft the clunk could be the centre bearing, or a bad u-joint.

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot (Post 8928295)

If it only clunks in 4 wheel drive, suspect the X-fer case or forward drive train.
If it clunks in both 2 & 4 wheel drive, suspect the rear drive train.

Possible that since your idle is fixed, the clunk will largely go away. Even a new drive train has enough slop that switching from D to R or back at high speed can make a noise.

Originally Posted by geezer#99 (Post 8928711)

Is the carb working better?
Does it start right up like you want?
Carb is fine, it needs fine tuning, engine is shaking little bit
It need depressing the pedal twice to start

I’ve installed a torque strap a couple times to limit the motor from moving. Whenever put in gear the motor wants to torque to the passenger side.
I used a short chain with a turnbuckle. Attached to the frame and a convenient bolt down beside the power steering pump.
If the clunk goes away then you know something is hitting somewhere.
If you try that don’t leave the strap in place. Your steering can be effected.

Originally Posted by geezer#99 (Post 8928776)

Why are you looking for a nos one or reman carb?
Does your truck start normally now?
You know. Pump it a couple times to set the choke, fire it up, it runs on a high idle, tap the throttle after a couple minutes, it idles down to normal, put it in gear and off you go.