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Old 02-22-2016, 05:41 PM   #1
Brad54
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Athens, Georgia
Posts: 1,456
Re: Where to start on this blasted cab?

In 20 years of writing magazine tech articles, I've learned from some of the best in the business.

First thing I would do is hang the doors back on it, with rebuilt hinges.
Everything on that truck right now, is a factory fit... rusted, but a factory fit. All the gaps and alignment is as it was from the factory (with fresh hinges).
Align the doors with fresh hinges, to the factory location of the rockers.
Then replace the rockers and get them fitted and gapped to the factory location of the door.

Without seeing the back side and underside of the rockers, I'm not sure I'd fully replace them. There's a couple small holes in the face of it, below the door. I'd poke that with a screwdriver and see how much of that metal is good... if most of it is, I think I'd just patch the face of it. For the top where it's rusted, I'd cut that out and use a repro rocker as a donor. Butt-weld it, and the seam will be under the rocker sill plate.

A mistake a lot of people make is thinking they need to "get their money's worth" by using an entire replacement panel. I like to see as much of the original metal retained as possible.

I might think about repairing that rear cab corner before I did anything with the rocker. The stock rocker in the stock location will make the alignment of the cab corner more exact.

I'd replace the floor sections and fit them to the stock bottom edge of the firewall toeboards, at the same time replacing the bottom edge of the firewall where it's needed.
I had to fabricate the bottom edge of the firewall on my '61, and recreate the factory flange in some areas, before finishing the floor pan installation.

-Brad
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'61 Suburban daily driver: off the road due to 180-pound 8-pt buck!
'62 K-10 long-step project
'61 C30 Camper, aka "Valdez"

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