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05-26-2017, 09:30 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Williamsburg, Ohio
Posts: 1,787
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Turned it over today -- have questions
I acquired a good running 216 today from a friend with a 49 Fleetline - s/n GAAxxxxxxx. He installed a 261. This is a good running engine with good oil pressure that may have been overhauled sometime in its life. My friend said it needed crankshaft seals. It appears that the front pan gasket must have been leaking bad as someone gobbed silicon on the pan front lip. Regardless I will replace the front and rear seal plus pan gaskets --all gaskets, the rear freeze plug has a slight leak, and may as well change the pilot bearing. I will pull the damper and use a repair sleeve on front crank if needed. The stand is a 1.5 ton stand and will hold it. I used the lift arm to steady it while rotating it. I will add a front brace tomorrow just because...
My questions... 1) Will I need to unbolt every rod and remove the crank or can I just loosen/remove all the main caps and lift up the crank slightly to remove/replace/seat the upper rear rope seal? 2) The rear freeze plug --top center appears to be a shallow plug. Can I procure this one plug from say NAPA or somewhere? thanks
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1942 Chevy 1/2 ton Rod, 1959 GMC 1/2 ton Fleet Stepside, 1967 Chevy SWB K10, 1985 Corvette Coupe 4+3, 2015 Chevy Duramax reg cab 4WD W/T |
05-30-2017, 03:29 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Doodah Kansas
Posts: 7,774
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Re: Turned it over today -- have questions
it doesnt surprise me that the new seal leaks, installing rope seals is an art. my uncle had a piece of thick glass in his toolbox he would roll them on first to make easier to install and pack in. I never saw him remove the crank to install one though.
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the mass of men live lives of quiet desperation if there is a problem, I can have it. new project WAYNE http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=844393 |
06-02-2017, 11:50 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Williamsburg, Ohio
Posts: 1,787
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Re: Turned it over today -- have questions
I followed felpros instructions and looked at methods on the web.. I did loosen all the main caps --removed the rear main and lifted the crank about 3/8". I had removed the front cover and marked the timing gears prior - timing gears had no wear.. You still have to kinda snake the top rope seal in from the middle up into the ends then make best effort to seat and push into the groove. I did not cut the top cord until after I dropped the crank back down. Cutting the cord with a razer knife is some what ugly. I did put a dab of indian head on the ends prior to installing the cap.
Torqued the caps to 102. I have not dealt with main bolts with lock washers before. Different.. Cleaning up pan timing cover and pan and will change out the rest of the gaskets before cleaning up and painting gray. Being a 49 block it was orig blue then someone painted it orange, then gold. I will paint it the gray since going into the 46. I may put oil seals in while it is out using the compressed air method. The new rope seals really tightens the crank until wear-in from what I find on the web. Starter will get a workout initially. I would not like to replace that top seal laying under the vehicle.
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1942 Chevy 1/2 ton Rod, 1959 GMC 1/2 ton Fleet Stepside, 1967 Chevy SWB K10, 1985 Corvette Coupe 4+3, 2015 Chevy Duramax reg cab 4WD W/T |
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