1971 4x4 Suburban Project - the 'Family Adventure Wagon'

[ManNamedJed]

However it has NOT fixed my vibration. So still working on that.

[HO455]

Looking good! Good luck in hunting down the vibration.
I had vibration problem on mine too. It ended up being a combination of a worn carrier bearing (which I replaced with a billet carrier bearing and a new drive shaft) and the ring gear carrier was disintegrating. So a good used carrier, new ring and pinion, a new axle, and all new bearings were installed and now things are much quieter.

[ManNamedJed]

Long time between updates. My suburban doesn't fit in the garage, so I don't do much to it in the winter months.

This spring had lots of yard work, and my wife and kid actually got the Coronavirus (serious stuff folks, my wife was wiped out for two full weeks and is still not 100%). So no time for wrenching projects.

But finally get some stuff done. I replaced the oil in the trans and transfer case (it was fine, and new fluid did not cure my vibes).

I rebuilt the Edelbrock carb. My first one and it wasn't that hard. Followed a you tube video. While I was at it I installed the 'off road' spring kit from Edelbrock and put in a block on the rear fuel passage. Cuz its a 4x4 ya know.

I re routed the plug wires with some wire holders. Had to customize a bit since the rams horn come up higher than other manifolds. Not perfect, but will keep the wires off the exhaust.

[ManNamedJed]

Since watching 'Engine Masters' test of carb spacers I decided it wouldn't hurt to add a 1" open spacer.

I retuned everything and it runs really nice now. It certainly picked up power from the carb rebuild (was pretty gunky inside, and I think the secondaries were sticking) and other stuff. I also found a vacuum leak.

I am frustrated with the choke. Even full warm, the quarter round part that keeps your idle higher when cold sometimes barely catches the throttle lever. It makes we wonder if the choke ever fully opens.

[ManNamedJed]

I have a new harmonic balancer to install, since I'm still shotgunning my vibration issue. I've decided if that doesn't cure it, I'm just going to drive it until the vibes get worse and are easier to diagnose or go away. I have some sound deadening mat to install, so maybe I'll throw that in, turn the radio up, and ignore it!

[HO455]

The wires look good. Good work on the carburetor rebuild. I have generally found a spacer under the carburetor to be helpful unless your driving in really cold weather, like 15 degrees or colder.
One of the reasons I ditched the Edelbrock on my Burban was the choke never worked correctly in my opinion. It was too slow to open completely and if I tried to get it to open sooner it wouldn't close completely.
Tough to hear about your family. I hope they are going to make a full recovery. Too many folks just don't realize how serious of an illness it is.

[ManNamedJed]

Good to know its not just me. I've debated converting it a manual choke.

At some point I'll do a LS swap or maybe a 383 crate eng with Holley Sniper, but I wanted to learn more about making a carb work. And I'd like to actually enjoy this thing before tearing into another big project.

[Madkidd007]

Originally Posted by ManNamedJed

Good to know its not just me. I've debated converting it a manual choke.

At some point I'll do a LS swap or maybe a 383 crate eng with Holley Sniper, but I wanted to learn more about making a carb work. And I'd like to actually enjoy this thing before tearing into another big project.

I wish you were closer as I’d help you out on that choke. I’ve had a few edlebrocks that came with and I converted to electric choke. The 3 things that matter and easy enough to do but easy to overlook.

Make sure the spring on the inside of the choke assembly engages correctly, just google the instructions for orientation.

Set it dead ass cold with the key off, all you have to do is rotate it till the GAO is right on the butterfly.

Lastly the choke idle screw adjustment, reason I mention that is I’ve seen people adjust the round plastic piece and never touch the idle speed screw trying to get it to idle right when choked.

When set right you turn the key, push the pedal to the floor one time and fires right up. If you go manual choke you have to make the same adjustments anyways

[ManNamedJed]

Thanks. When I had it apart I could see how it works, and set it so the spring is engaging the lever. It is a bit past the middle hash mark so there is some initial tension on it. When warmed up, it does rotate that lever on the top of the choke side fully, but even in that position it doesn't seem to fully rotate the fast idle cam. I'm temped to just dremel a bit off it.

Yes I have adjusted the choke idle screw and feel its in a good spot for cold starting. I does cold start really well, it just take a LONG time for the choke to disengage, and even fully disengaged it can still just barely catch the throttle, keeping it in fast idle.

[Madkidd007]

Originally Posted by ManNamedJed

Thanks. When I had it apart I could see how it works, and set it so the spring is engaging the lever. It is a bit past the middle hash mark so there is some initial tension on it. When warmed up, it does rotate that lever on the top of the choke side fully, but even in that position it doesn't seem to fully rotate the fast idle cam. I'm temped to just dremel a bit off it.

Yes I have adjusted the choke idle screw and feel its in a good spot for cold starting. I does cold start really well, it just take a LONG time for the choke to disengage, and even fully disengaged it can still just barely catch the throttle, keeping it in fast idle.

So I’m wondering when you say long time to disengage. The choke will not automatically disengage, you have to tap the throttle to release the pressure so it’ll fall off the cam. Text is hard to communicate sometimes so not sure if you meant with or without giving it throttle

[ManNamedJed]

Thanks I think I understand what you are saying. I meant it takes a long time for the choke to warm up and fully disengage. It seems to take a good 15 mins before its moved all the way. Yes I bump the throttle to get the fast idle cam to move.

[ManNamedJed]

Installed some 'dynamat' in the back end of the suburban this weekend. I used the bulk 'ballistic' brand.

I promised my helpers they get to pound things (meaning flatten out the dynamat) and they were excited.

[ManNamedJed]

Pulled off the side panels and found them stuffed with household insulation. Not sure if that did much. I suppose it blocked some heat.

[ManNamedJed]

Was pleased to find the plywood in good shape. Only one spot showed any real rot. It was a bit mushy here.

Another hobby is restoring vintage arcade games. Some of them are particle board and they turn to mush if they get wet. I'd learned that this Wood Hardener was great for things like that. So I soaked some in to that spot (pic of game collection added just to show off.).

[ManNamedJed]

The plywood was pretty dry and didnt have much paint left. There was a big oil stain in the middle, so an oil based paint was in order. I realized I had two cans of oil based clear polyurethane left over from a furniture refinishing project so I used that. Its strange that its shiny, but its was about to get covered up anyway.

It made a nice hard finish that the dynamat stuck to really well.

[ManNamedJed]

Aand, all done. I didn't go crazy and cover every square inch like some do, but it should add some sound and heat insulation. I didn't take a pic of it all back together as it just looks like the starting pic.

I'll do the front half soon, but I want to do inside the doors, and while I'm at it I'd like to do window seals and maybe replace the drivers window regulator, and I need to get those items ordered up.

[HO455]

Nice work! It's really coming along nicely.

I'm not sure why, I but i just noticed you have a square body second row seat set too.

[LockDoc]

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Looks good!

LockDoc

[Ol Blue K20]

Looks good, nice job. I love your game collection

[ManNamedJed]

Originally Posted by HO455

Nice work! It's really coming along nicely.

I'm not sure why, I but i just noticed you have a square body second row seat set too.

Yes the PO put those in. It was interesting to see how they mounted. They added a plate behind the second row for the rear seat latches. I do like having the full seat. I've got the matching 3rd row too.

[FLYNAVY30]

Very cool. Any chance we could get some additional detail photos of the mounting of the square body second row? I've read HO455's thread numerous times now, just curious how the PO mounted the seats in your truck.

Thanks!

[ManNamedJed]

I'd be happy to. Unfortunately everything is put back together now. If I have it apart again I'll sure take some.

You can see in some pics there is a plate attached from the floor to the inner body area just under the window. It has the three bolts in it that mount the seat latches. Its probably not as robust as it should be.

[FLYNAVY30]

Thanks very much....no hurry at all. This is one of those "some day" projects for my truck....at 6'6, being able to fold the bench flat will afford me the ability to sleep comfortably in the back with the wife and dog on camping trips.

[ManNamedJed]

This weekend I decided to take on doing a new harmonic balancer and adding the serpentine kit.

I scored the kit on the Summit scratch n dent rack for $380. It included all the brackets, bolts, as well as a new water pump, power steering pump, and alternator.

One issue I knew of was that my AC pump is V belt and I didn't want to have to change it as its only a year old. So I got a new serpentine clutch. The swap wasnt too bad. Having the special tools and puller would make it go pretty easy. I had to improvise a bit, but got it done.

[ManNamedJed]

Once I was sure that was going to work out, I pulled the radiator and the rest of the accessories off.

This project has had a lot of 'do overs'. This is the third or fourth time I've had the radiator out, and second time I've had most of the front of the engine stuff off.

Looks familiar: