Lurker OrrieG Progress Pics

[OrrieG]

I switched out my avatar for an older picture. This one was taken in 1985 right after the first 4wd conversion. Wife was cute is that 80's perm. It also still had a shine to the paint. heres a bigger version

[sgtusmc]

Hats off to ya OrrieG. That's some very clean work there.

[discodadee]

I really like those original wheels Orrie, am I correct in assuming those are the factory '59 rims on the '70s axles? And did you have to modify the fronts to fit over the locking hubs at all? Or did they just bolt right on? And what size tire is that? I have a '57 GMC I'm working on sitting on an eighties chassis and love the look of those old-school wheels with the tall skinny tires!!

[OrrieG]

Here is one 23 years later! I used it for a second spare. I wanted the knarlly stock look I remembered from the stock 4wd trucks the logger drove in the 60's. I think they are the wheels that came with the 74 running gear. The codes on the wheel is K-1-2 and CZ. The first is November 1971, 2nd shift. I couldn't find the CZ code online. I ran them because they are wider than the stock wheels. I tried 9.00 x 16 but had clearance issues in the front. The tire size on it is 7.00 x 16 Zenith Ultra Traction Lug. Lots of traction, but lots of noise and they were the old bias not radials. When they wore out I got 225/75/16 all weather tread which are about the same height but no noise or thump when cold. They have the center raised cap retainer, not clips. I was going to run dog dish caps but never got around to it, just tuned up the white paint with Rustoleum every few years. There were no fit issues since they are the same year range as the axles. I just noticed this one has tube, but that was so I could repair them back in the sticks if necessary. The ones with radials mounted fine without tubes.

Later: I have some stock 59 rims and can check them on the 74 axles if you want me to.

[GRIMSS]

Looking good, wish I was at that point.

[mylow53]

doing it twice been there done that i just call the first pass R n D.... i love that you would rather "fab it" than "Buy it" makes your truck yours!
GT

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by mylow53

doing it twice been there done that i just call the first pass R n D.... i love that you would rather "fab it" than "Buy it" makes your truck yours!
GT

Fabbing is the fun part for me, goes back to my millwright apprentice days. I just wish I had better equipment, a 4' metal brake/shear would be heaven for me. I finally broke down and got a 12" metal chop saw with a good blade, makes a big difference time wise!

[OrrieG]

Progress is being made. Got the doors down to metal so I can etch and prime them. You rust belt guys will hate me, passenger has a few small spots on bottom of the inside, drivers side is clean. Love this old desert truck! With any luck next week end will get to prime all the stuff I've been working on over the winter and paint the inside front clip stuff with semi-black. Here are shots of the doors.

[ChuckDriver]

OrrieG, I've been think of going to a cable shifter also. Looking at your setup I'm curious if you have it working. The reason I ask is because I have a kugel shift arm setup on mine and the way it works is by pushing the trans arm down as it shifts from Park to Drive. Looking at your pictures, and I might not be seeing the whole story, it looks like yours is pushing the cable down from the column, therefor it's working against the trans arm? On my 350 trans as viewed from the side, the arm moves counter-clockwise. Thats why it looks to me that it's backwards. Hope this makes sense.

[discodadee]

I can help a little bit with that one, I don't have the cable set-up, but in a factory application there is another arm that comes from the bracket on the tranny that connects to the rod that connects to the column. That other arm works to reverse the direction of the shifter, in other words as the shifter pushes down on that arm clockwise the other end of it that actually attaches to the tranny turns the opposite direction. I can take some pictures if it helps...

[OrrieG]

I have it in right. I crawled under my Chevelle and checke the location of low and park. The instructions that came with the cable and trans bracket were very clear to about the install and adjustment. KEy is making sure the distance from the center of the column to hole in column arm is the same as arm at the trans. If they are not the same the column detents aill not match the trans position ans you can get the trans between gears - not good!

[OrrieG]

ChuckDriver and Disco -Forgot to say thanks for the comment, I do appreciate others looking and offering suggestions or comments.

[discodadee]

Dude, this is my favorite thread! I read it every time there's a post!

[ChuckDriver]

OrrieG
I'm not at all try to stir up any trouble, just looking for options to change mine over to a cable from the Kugel setup I have. I looked at your pitures in Post 134, and looking at the cable at the column it looks to me that as you move the gear selector from Park, R N D and L that the cable is pushed IN the housing. Then down at the trans the cable will be pushed OUT of the housing causing the trans shift arm to rotate clockwise. I looked at my 350 trans and my shift arm is at the 9 oclock position in Park and moves counter-clockwise to the 6 oclock positon. This is however done with a solid rod, see the link to Kugel.

I think the cable can work as a pusher, but the shift arm has to start in the 12 oclock postion and move towards the 9 oclock position.

The Kugel piture shows the Trans in the D or L position.

I hope I was able to make my point and NOT offend anyone!!

[OrrieG]

Chuck I looked and you are correct, somehow I got it backwards in my head. Thanks. I need to rotate the tranny arm to the up position and "adjust" the bracket so it will push CCW. Like someone else said, install once for R&D then a second time for refinement!

[OrrieG]

Progress: Boring stuff, not even pic worthy. Ground, cleaned and primed the seat frame. Repaired the battery box, front was rusted out. Trimmed the trans cab cover for a better fit. Going to start on the bed prep tomorrow, clean up all the cross rails, fender support rods. Still not staying warm enough here at night to paint anything. May have to move on to pulling the donor motor and cleaning it up and installing it.

Anyone have a deluxe stock heater control they want to part with, I dug mine out and I had forgotten that the levers were trashed?

Thanks for looking.

[OrrieG]

Whoppee quality day of etch and priming all the stuff I've been working on this winter. Fenders, doors, inner fender panels, radiator support, grille surround, bed rails and other small stuff. I'll post pics later forgot to bring the camera card reader thingy home. Tomorrow want to try and get the black on everything that gets it then finish the body work on fenders, doors, cab. Welding is done, just plastic work, I am optomistic that I can do one piece per evening, they aren't that rough. Then its motor time...

[OrrieG]

Bed sides and front panel are etch and sanding primered. Still great weather so moving quickly into plastic work on them today. Also got the cab primed at the last batch of repairs, I was not happy with the firewall, area below window in cab and other small stuff. Nice how primer always feels like major progress.

[cajundragger]

I hate you and your no rust.

Looks good man, Im jealous.

[ChuckDriver]

Looking good!

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by cajundragger

I hate you and your no rust.

Looks good man, Im jealous.

You will hate my 64 Malibu daily driver too! Only rust is over the rear wheel wells. Here is a couple of photos with the heart transplant, I have the original 283 and PG for my future resto.

[Bigblue29]

Holy smokes thats a clean Malibu. Good progress on the truck too!

[bensimmons_05]

So you etch prime first, then coat bondo, then seal, then paint?

Would that be right? Do you have to scuff the etching primer before you bondo or not.

I know everybody does these things in different orders, but what is your order?

[OrrieG]

Based on the old pro at the paint shop I etch primed (light coat you don't need to over do it and it reduces runs) then primed. I used Dupont Nason products. He said the plastic (I use Rage) will stick to the paint as well as metal. So far it appears to be doing fine. I do not have any heavy build areas. I sand down to the etch at the plastic areas with 80 grit. If you want the specific paint numbers I can get them when I get home.

[bensimmons_05]

You don't have to get the numbers, I was just wondering how you did it.

It is an ongoing debate about bondo over etch or not.

Usually the old school guys view it as a body working SIN, but the truth is with the properties of the etching primer it is made to chemically bond to that kind of stuff so it should be fine.

I use rage also.

The only thing I was never really sure of is whether you actually sand it before you bondo, so thanks a bunch for your input.

Looks like things are coming alond NICELY!!!! Can't wait to see this truck come together.