Gm crate engine

[skidoo]

looking at buying a new gm crate engine. Not looking for something that i can race on the 1/4 mile. I was looking at the 383 stroker with the vortex heads but not sure. What would you guys think would be a good cruiser engine and be able to do the odd burn out. lol. Would be going into 72 c10 2wd

[jocko]

I'm considering the L31 and L31R GM crates - have heard pretty positive reviews on here. Not a hot rod engine, but a good truck engine. You may want more if you want to do burnouts.

[CC69Rat]

After having issues with a GMPP 350 / 290hp I was denied warranty coverage because it was not installed by an ASE certified mechanic.

4.3 L valve seals in a 350, and it's not a problem for them, and/or justified warranty issue.

Let's just say it was my first and last GMPP crate motor. There are better options out there. Check out S&J Engines out of Spokane Washington. I just bought a Jeep 4.0 from them and I am thoroughly pleased with it. The prices are great and 7yr warranty.

[Steeveedee]

I watch these threads and wonder what I can get for my truck that is sure to be reliable. It's tough enough for me to do the work, but to do it twice is complete BS. I need torque, not high revs, which is what seems to be out there.

[tdangle]

I have one of the GM crate engines the SP350/357. Lots of power but beware not a real smooth idle. The cam in is is ground on a 108 LSA making good torque but idle quality suffers. I have had it in for a year and a half with no issues. I personally wish I had gone with the 383 now, but at the time it was significantly higher priced. At that time they had no L31's in stock. I've heard blueprint has good engines.

[Big Kev-O]

I have a GMPP L31 350 which has vortex heads. I scored it for $600 from a wealthy dude who upgraded to a LS. It was the only thing I could afford at the time. I installed a mild cam and Fitech fuel injection. I am considering purchasing a short block 383 from Skip White Performance since it will work with my heads, cam & FiTech and take me from 300 to about 400hp. The drawback to a higher HP 383 is that it would require a high stall torque converter which isn’t very street friendly, unless you have a manual transmission. If I were to do it all over I would get a low mileage LS with a 4L60 before I spent $4500+ on a new GMPP crate engine. SBCs are great but if you want a street/strip car you simply cannot beat a hopped up LS.
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[truckster]

I have a 98 L31 Vortec with an HT383 cam and 9.5:1 pistons. I'm running a Quadrajet and HEI with 2.5 rams horns for the exhaust manifolds. It scoots pretty well and has plenty of grunt (I've literally pulled stumps with it). In my 72 Blazer with the stock TH350 and NP205 transfer case, 3.73 rear and 33" all-terrain TA radials it will spin the tires a bit if I get on it from a stop and chirp them going into second gear. I've never really tried to do a burnout (I don't like paying for tires) but I have my Z/28 for that...

[dagnabbitt]

Get a Blueprint. Amazing engine and best bang for your buck. I have a 355 and I love it.

[mikey531]

Blueprint 383, 430 hp, I bought it complete, all I did was add oil and water

[WHYBYNU]

I installed a ZZ6 in May this year. Put 250 miles on and headed out on Hot Rod Power Tour and drove 2200+ miles in 5 days, averaged 13+ MPG. So far I've put a total of 3300 miles on it this summer. Still running the th350 but installed a Pro Torque 2800-3200 stall converter. I'm running a Quick Fuel Slayer 650 CFM carb. Installed a set of Sanderson headers. Winter plans are to put 4le80 trans and get rid of the 3.07 gears for 3.55 or 3.73. it pulls hard and lays a little rubber when you want to. No complaints so far. I had a LS3 on order for 7 months it kept get pushed back so I just cancelled the order bought the ZZ6 and never looked back.

[Smitty]

I put the HO 350/330 hp GM crate motor in my '71. Backed up with a 700r4. Happy with it so far. Gets right down the road. Not much of a fan of burn outs though. Somewhere on U tube there is a video tour of the Bllueprint Motor facility. Pretty impressive.

[dagnabbitt]

Just my 2 cents: you've done the research and found the engine you want. But they won't sell it to you.

I don't know how things are right now with the "supply chain" but I found that GM crate engines were basically unattainable a year and a half ago. Unless you paid in advance and were willing to wait 6 months for it to come in. I was not willing to wait.

That's how I ended up with Blueprint. When I called and asked if they had any in stock Stephanie said, yeah, I am looking at the one I am going to sell you: and she read the serial number to me.

My 355 was delivered within a week - to Canada, no less - and it has 410hp and 440 ft lbs of torque. It was not cheap, but it was the best dollar I ever spent on a truck. I did have some communication issues with the company (that I would chalk up to their rapid growth) but there is not one problem with their products that I can see.

[MikeB]

I've installed three of the base 350 Goodwrench engines over the years, one in a 69 C10, the others in a 51 Chevy pickup and a 55 Chevy car.

Considering the small cam and low-performance heads, all of them performed well with a small 4-bbl carb and headers, or even cast iron exhaust manifolds. Dual exhausts and low restriction mufflers are a must.

Of course the engine has a smooth idle and good torque, but also more than adequate acceleration when you stomp on the gas.

[tutone]

http://www.gordonsengines.com/engines.html

I ran into this guy a few years ago at a hot rod show. Very interesting setup as he had engines on run stands on a trailer in the vender area. Some were mild, and some were wild. He would crank one for you to listen to. Impressive and if you like burnouts, it could be the answer.

[MikeB]

I rambled on about crate engines above, but just noticed you want to do burn outs. Well, just about any 383 will do it, especially with a higher stall torque converter. Many years ago my current C10 had a mild 383 with a TH350 and a Hughes GM20 converter (nominal 2000 RPM stall). That sucker would spin the tires even when I wasn't trying to, and would chirp the tires on the 1-2 shift. The axle ratio was just the stock 3.08 with a Auburn cone-type posi.

Someone in a hurry offered me crazy money for the 383, so I sold it and dropped in a mild 350 that I built up from parts in the shop where I worked on weekends. Even that engine will do a burnout. We're not talking Roadkill Garage stuff, but most of us don't get free tires anyway! But with a 383 and/or a 3.73 axle, watch out!

BTW, I sold the 383 in order to get some project money for a new toy -- a 55 Chevy sedan. It ended up getting a 327 and a Muncie M20.

[68 C10 Driver]

My plan is to get a 350, 4 bolt main, crate motor. Like many here, I just want a good truck engine that will be a good cruiser.

I'm also going with a Muncie M20.

[tutone]

Crate motors are just a solid replacement for a factory engine. In the late 80s, my dad had a 305 80 model Cutlass with a tired engine. He bought a GM replacement 350/010 block crate motor. I put all the accessories on it and installed it for him. Wise choice, it ran for the life of the car. A few years ago, I saw an ad on CL in N Tenn about a 350 crate/010 block with 30k miles. He planned and executed an ls swap in his 68 c10. I brought the engine home and finally am putting it in the camaro. It's sort-of a fill the empty spot for now motor, so later, I can build a motor for it.

[72SB]

Another vote for Blueprint Engines. They are new motors, not rebuilds. Blocks are cast in Ohio. They dyno every motor and back it with a very good warranty. You can buy direct or from places like Summit. Free shipping. I bought direct, motor was here in 4 days. 357 making 411 HP 413 TQ using a 600 cfm carb. Have a Hughes 2k standard size stall. Runs and drives perfect and has a nice cam idle but nothing stupid choppy

I also had a S&J 302 for my 70 Torino....had to send it back for replacement. YMMV

[doug_p]

Is a used Vortec swap (LS) out of the question? LQ4's and LQ9's, among others can be found relatively easily online and really are not all that difficult to install. Plenty torque, good mileage, start every time you turn the key . . . You may even find someone willing to offer a warranty. I did my own, found a 6.0 LQ4 complete (harness, computer, accessories) for $700.00. Followed a web site online step by step, and viola - modern engine in an older truck. Just a thought.

[Rickysnickers]

I'm happy with my Blueprint Engine as well. It's a 400 SBC and came with the dyno sheet, 550hp. Don't remember the torque rating. I've had no complaints.

[72SB]

FYI

Blueprint Engines shop tour

https://youtu.be/Jzr2U8bGpvc

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by 72SB

Another vote for Blueprint Engines. They are new motors, not rebuilds. Blocks are cast in Ohio. They dyno every motor and back it with a very good warranty. You can buy direct or from places like Summit. Free shipping. I bought direct, motor was here in 4 days. 357 making 411 HP 413 TQ using a 600 cfm carb.

I see where they use new GM blocks on some of their engines, but a 357 has a 4.040" bore, so that would be a used block. Not that it's a bad thing.

[72SB]

Originally Posted by MikeB

I see where they use new GM blocks on some of their engines, but a 357 has a 4.040" bore, so that would be a used block. Not that it's a bad thing.

...No, they used a new block and bored it (or cast it that way) .040 over. The block has "Blueprint" cast into it. It's drilled for Z bar and fuel pump

[Steeveedee]

I'd have to say, I'm curious what is so special about a .040 over 350, as opposed to a stock bore?

I'm liking those stroked 454 seasoned blocks, but I'm only looking for torque and HP up to 4000 RPM; my truck would see very little above that.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by 72SB

...No, they used a new block and bored it (or cast it that way) .040 over. The block has "Blueprint" cast into it. It's drilled for Z bar and fuel pump

Wow, I had no idea. Is it a one-piece main seal block and drilled for OE-type roller cam and lifters?

I'm still curious why the bore would be +.040". I know some engine suppliers go out to +.060", but that's out of necessity and not a generally a good idea. At the shop I worked for, we would not go any more than +.030". Maybe the Blueprint blocks have thicker cylinder walls than GM blocks.???