Removing SM465 with bellhousing; support BBC?

[jumpsoffrock]

I am gonna try and swap my SM465 with an NV4500 in this next week but I need help figuring out how to support the rear of the engine without a bellhousing there.
Here's my options:

Remove trans and leave engine and bellhousing installed:
Cannot access top two bell-to-trans bolts when installing NV4500(Using Leons method: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=673588)

Remove trans with bellhousing, leave engine: Engine has no rear support.

Remove engine and trans completely: I'd like to avoid this at all costs due to several issues(can't move truck, dont want to remove hood yet, nowhere to store engine, etc)

Any advice?

[geezer#99]

I’ve seen a chain used from one frame rail and under the pan up to the other frame rail.
Of course that was many moons ago before small ratchet straps were available. Easy to attach to each rail and tighten with the ratchet. Double up on it to spread the load on the pan.
That should keep the rear of your motor supported.

[72c20customcamper]

I’ve always just used a floor jack with a piece of 2x6 . There really isn’t that much weight with the motor mounts still attached .

[kwmech]

Yep, floor jack or a jack stand with a block of wood. It is kinda surprising how balanced the engine is with the mounts and the exhaust holding it up. But they are heavy, so...

[jumpsoffrock]

ok, cool, sounds like it's not that unconventional do do this process. Thank you.

[Ironangel]

I've used a ratchet strap from a bolt in an accessory bolt hole 7/16-20 in the back of the head(s) to the pinch weld lip at the top of the firewall. That way you can raise and lower the truck without worrying about the jack under the motor...

[jumpsoffrock]

As others have said, I guess it's not like all of the engines weight is on that lip, but I'm still surprised that lip of sheetmetal can hold that amount of weight.

With that being said, I like that plan the best, not to mention the cab in the truck is trashed already, I could care less if it bends or warps that metal lip.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by jumpsoffrock

As others have said, I guess it's not like all of the engines weight is on that lip, but I'm still surprised that lip of sheetmetal can hold that amount of weight.

With that being said, I like that plan the best, not to mention the cab in the truck is trashed already, I could care less if it bends or warps that metal lip.

That strap/back of the motor dont weigh enough to bend that lip...All you need to do is support the motor. I knock the trans crossmember out of the way and let the motor tilt down a tad to access the bellhousing bolts. Transmission already strapped to a jack...Im actually pulling a 400TH from a 427 tomorrow... That lip is stronger than it looks!

[jumpsoffrock]

So did you grind the rivets off of the crossmember? Is that normal to do when removing trans?

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by jumpsoffrock

So did you grind the rivets off of the crossmember? Is that normal to do when removing trans?

You know I dont recall the trans crossmembers being riveted. Eight grade 8 bolts, two in the top flange and two in the bottom flange on each side. You have to remove a couple of 5/16 bolts that hold the brake line and fuel line clips. Then use a hammer to knock the crossmember to the rear far enough to clear the tail housing of the trans... The frame is factory drilled to locate the crossmember for a 350 or a 400TH.

[jumpsoffrock]

MY trans crossmember is riveted for my SM465....interesting.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by jumpsoffrock

MY trans crossmember is riveted for my SM465....interesting.

What year and model is the truck?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by jumpsoffrock

MY trans crossmember is riveted for my SM465....interesting.

Originally Posted by Ironangel

What year and model is the truck?

I think you guys are talking about 2 different cross members here. The SM465 used a bell housing cross member that is riveted in and the automatics used a rear transmission cross member that is bolted in....

When installing the NV4500 you use the stock bell housing cross member and the NV4500 just hangs off of the back of the bell housing like the SM465. No transmission cross member.

LockDoc

[jumpsoffrock]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I think you guys are talking about 2 different cross members here. The SM465 used a bell housing cross member that is riveted in and the automatics used a rear transmission cross member that is bolted in....

When installing the NV4500 you use the stock bell housing cross member and the NV4500 just hangs off of the back of the bell housing like the SM465. No transmission cross member.

LockDoc

Ok that clears that up.


Leon, do you know what U joint to use?

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I think you guys are talking about 2 different cross members here. The SM465 used a bell housing cross member that is riveted in and the automatics used a rear transmission cross member that is bolted in....

When installing the NV4500 you use the stock bell housing cross member and the NV4500 just hangs off of the back of the bell housing like the SM465. No transmission cross member.

LockDoc

That indeed cleared up my confusion Leon, thank you!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by jumpsoffrock

Ok that clears that up.


Leon, do you know what U joint to use?

Originally Posted by Ironangel

That indeed cleared up my confusion Leon, thank you!

Good deal guys, No problem.

As far as the U joint I will have to see if I can find the receipt on it. I can't remember the number.

LockDoc

[LockDoc]

-
OK, I think I figured out what I did with the front "U" joint. I used the rear bolt on yoke from the original SM465 transmission. (it bolts right on the NV4500) That way I could use the stock "U" joints. The receipt I have is from O'Reilly Auto Parts and the part number is PRE 331. Be sure and check that out because I think I replaced all of the "U" joints at the same time.

Anyway if you use the SM465 bolt on yoke, your original "U" joint should fit it.

LockDoc

[jumpsoffrock]

My problem with that is my yoke has a special balancer on it so I'd like to keep it. I'll ask the shop doing my driveline if they have any knowledge.

Thanks for the help.