Lss3

[Drifters]

The trucks coming along? Looks good

[mcbassin]

Nice progress on the project. Love the Vintage air upgrade. Good luck with that rust. I know how much fun that can be.

[69cunningham]

A couple of weeks ago I decided to test the fuel system in preparation for starting the engine. The Vapor Worx electronic fuel pump controller was crudely wired to the pump. When powered up, the pressure at the fuel rails came up to 50 PSI. A little low, but the control module has an adjustment to bump it up. Just as I was about to make the adjustment, I noticed fuel leaks in several locations. I hoped I just needed to tighten a few joints. No luck. With one of the lines removed, I discovered a crack in the flare. It turns out that stainless tubing is not seamless. The cracks occurred on the seam. I may have work hardened the tubing by using a tubing cutter. All the SS lines are junk. Most of the flares are cracked. The lines are being replaced with aluminum lines. I have really good patterns and the aluminum is much easier to work with.

[notchbackgta]

I have done all my lines on projects in stainless and havent had a problem with the tubing splitting at the seam. It looks like you have a regular flare on that instead of the inverted flare? That may be your issue

[69cunningham]

I'm using AN fittings that have a single 37 degree flare for my fuel system. My brakes use traditional inverted flares. I'm going to have to take them apart and inspect them before I add the fluid. Do you know if the tubing you used was seamless?

[notchbackgta]

No, I used cheap Summit stainless 3/8 tube and it is not seamless, but the tool I have does the flare for the 37 degree differently. I may be using the wrong terminology, but my tool folds the tube in first, then I put the flare on afterwards, so the end of the tube is on the inside, not outside like that. I have no leaks or splits with it, and I have pressed a lot of ends on that cheap tube. I also used the cheap Summit tube nuts and fittings for the fuel systems on several cars.

[69cunningham]

Last week, I got a tire mounted on my one rim to see how they fit. The tire is a Toyo Proxes ST II 285/60R17. Today, the bed was assembled on the frame. The tire just kisses the bed side. There is a ton of clearance to the fender.

[mcbassin]

Very nice looking wheel and tire combo, I guess you'll need a small spacer in the rear?

[roushinator]

Awesome progress!!

[ChuckDriver]

Wheels look nice!

[69cunningham]

I am hoping to get away with a 3/8" spacer. The problem I used too short wheel studs. I will need to remove the axels to replace the studs.

I considered tubbing the bed slightly to get the clearance needed, but that left the tires tucked in too far.

[LongC'67]

Fantastic build. I'm going to be watching this.

[69cunningham]

I just received a hub cap to go along with my wheel and tire. It is a PDC1 from Year One. It looks nice, but it is a chrome plated plastic piece, not cast metal like GM used. It is what is recommended for the wheel.

I also received the 3/8” wheel spacers for the rear (Billet Specialties WSG5L375) and longer wheel studs (Baer Brake 6280012). The studs were a lot harder to find than I expected. The Moser A3065GMT5 5 lug conversion axles use an odd size knurled section on the half inch studs. The holes in the axles is .525”. The knurled section is supposed to be .530” for a 5 thousandths interference. The Baer part were the only studs I could find other than the stock length ones. I’ve disassembled the rear end so the studs can be replaced.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by 69cunningham

I just received a hub cap to go along with my wheel and tire. It is a PDC1 from Year One. It looks nice, but it is a chrome plated plastic piece, not cast metal like GM used. It is what is recommended for the wheel.

I also received the 3/8” wheel spacers for the rear (Billet Specialties WSG5L375) and longer wheel studs (Baer Brake 6280012). The studs were a lot harder to find than I expected. The Moser A3065GMT5 5 lug conversion axles use an odd size knurled section on the half inch studs. The holes in the axles is .525”. The knurled section is supposed to be .530” for a 5 thousandths interference. The Baer part were the only studs I could find other than the stock length ones. I’ve disassembled the rear end so the studs can be replaced.

That wheel and tire setup looks good!

[69cunningham]

The new rear wheel studs are installed. It was easier than I expected as long as a press is available. The hardest part was disassembling the True Trac differential to get the axles out. The C clip did not want to come out.

[69cunningham]

I wasn’t entirely happy with the shifter. The throw was longer than I liked at 5.75”. That long throw caused the position of the knob in second gear with the seat all the way forward, the way it would be for my wife, was too far back to be comfortable. I discovered a new shifter base from Core Shifters. It moves the pivot point up, reducing the throw to 3.5”. It unfortunately moves the stick mounting point up and cants it over 14 degrees. This means another stick is needed. Since I am using the center stick location in the T56 Magnum, the base would cant the stick away from the driver. Due to symmetry in the base that was easily corrected.

[69cunningham]

I’ve been looking for a place to relocate the battery to from under the hood. This seems to be the best place. I like cleaning things up under the hood and transferring some weight to the rear.

[69cunningham]

LSS3 has reached a major milestone today. The engine runs! It was cranked over with the ECM unpowered to check the oil pressure. It got up to 20 PSI after about 10 seconds of cranking. Next, the fuel system was powered to get 60 PSI at the fuel rails. Last, the ECM was powered and the starter engaged. It came to life after just a few cranks. It idles smoothly and revs easily. The cooling system isn’t filled yet nor is the belt installed so I only ran it for about 5 seconds at a time. So far I only started it twice. It sounds mean.

Things are rather cobbled together. The wiring harness is just draped over the engine with a few tie wraps keeping wire away from moving or hot parts.

Ever since I bought the motor I’ve been worried about the throttle body. It is from the 2010 Camaro which uses the 12605109 with a gold colored throttle blade. GM crate engine the ECM was designed to work with uses the 12570790 with a silver blade. I haven’t been able to find enough information comparing the two and thought the gold one might not work. For now, everything seems to be working well. When the pedal is not being pressed, the blade is nearly closed. When fully depressed, the blade just fully opens.

[aggie91]

That is a major milestone, congrats!

[cornerstone]

Man thats gotta be a great feeling... congratulations!

[69cunningham]

The new rear wheel studs were way too long for the derby caps to fit. Chopping off 5/8” makes it just right.

[69cunningham]

The Wilwood rotors are bolted to the hats. These bolts need to be safety wired. It’s a bit challenging, but I’m starting to get the hang of it.

[mechanic350]

coming along great man. keep up the work.

[69cunningham]

LSS3 reached a milestone today. It is finally sitting on tires and wheels. No more blocks and jack stands.

[ChuckDriver]

Looking good!