Body mount torques...

[7tee]

So which is it, I've found 4 different answers on my search for torque and still haven't found it my service manual, so what are you torquing yours ...

1. radiator 33'lbs, front cab 70-90'lbs, rear cab 35-55'lbs

2. " 20'lbs, " 20'lbs, " 50'lbs

3. " 20'lbs, " 50'lbs, " 20'lbs

4. Tighten until washer touches bushing and then go one more turn

[RodnRudy]

The assembly manual lists the correct torques for the body mounts. Takes some searching through the big book.

[7tee]

Originally Posted by RodnRudy

The assembly manual lists the correct torques for the body mounts. Takes some searching through the big book.

Well thanks for that information, you wouldn't by chance know the page #...

[GMCPaul]

Also found in the GM Shop Manuals, the body mounts for cab are found in section 1 Conventional cab section
Radiator torque specs found in the same manual but section 11 Sheet metal and located in the installation instructions for front sheet metal assembly.
Correct torques are
1. radiator 33'lbs, front cab 70-90'lbs, rear cab 35-55'lbs
a range is provided for the cab body in order to perfect body lines, if body lines can not be adjusted to within = or - 1/8" then the use of body shims under floor above top bushing should be used, when adjusting body lines also keep a eye on the door to fender gap as it can change also with varying torque & use of body shims.
Paul Jr @ GMCPauls

[7tee]

Originally Posted by GMCPaul

Also found in the GM Shop Manuals, the body mounts for cab are found in section 1 Conventional cab section
Radiator torque specs found in the same manual but section 11 Sheet metal and located in the installation instructions for front sheet metal assembly.
Correct torques are
1. radiator 33'lbs, front cab 70-90'lbs, rear cab 35-55'lbs
a range is provided for the cab body in order to perfect body lines, if body lines can not be adjusted to within = or - 1/8" then the use of body shims under floor above top bushing should be used, when adjusting body lines also keep a eye on the door to fender gap as it can change also with varying torque & use of body shims.
Paul Jr @ GMCPauls

Thank you for your help, I guess these old eyes were just too tired...

[7tee]

Ok I finally got around to torqueing the body mounts. I went 70'lbs on the front cab and 35'lbs on the rear cab.

For some reason I've developed vibration noises in the dash, doors and windows. The whole cab feels as if it is somewhat metal to metal as I have this constant vibration feel coming through the gas pedal which wasn't there before. These are new rubber mount kits installed per directions. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this and or will it eventually go away? Thanks

If it ain't one thing it's another...

[DaHos]

Originally Posted by 7tee

Ok I finally got around to torqueing the body mounts. I went 70'lbs on the front cab and 35'lbs on the rear cab.

For some reason I've developed vibration noises in the dash, doors and windows. The whole cab feels as if it is somewhat metal to metal as I have this constant vibration feel coming through the gas pedal which wasn't there before. These are new rubber mount kits installed per directions. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this and or will it eventually go away? Thanks

If it ain't one thing it's another...

Rubber or Poly mounts? I have had the same issue with the poly mounts........

[LockDoc]

-
Also, driveline vibration shows up when new mounts are installed as compared to the basically compressed, non-torqued old ones.... Check your carrier bearing and u-joints.

LockDoc

[7tee]

I have new;

rubber cab bushings
transmission mount
motor mounts

1pc driveshaft with new;

yoke
u-joints and balanced

The cab harmonics just started after replacing cab bushings, strange...

[special-K]

You still haven't answered whether they are polyurethane or rubber OEM spec bushings. Also, what Lock Doc is saying is the new mounts will show vibrations that the old didn't

[James the III]

Originally Posted by special-K

You still haven't answered whether they are polyurethane or rubber OEM spec bushings. Also, what Lock Doc is saying is the new mounts will show vibrations that the old didn't

""Ok I finally got around to torqueing the body mounts. I went 70'lbs on the front cab and 35'lbs on the rear cab.

For some reason I've developed vibration noises in the dash, doors and windows. The whole cab feels as if it is somewhat metal to metal as I have this constant vibration feel coming through the gas pedal which wasn't there before. These are new rubber mount kits installed per directions. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this and or will it eventually go away? Thanks



Maybe you missed this.

[7tee]

Originally Posted by 7tee

Ok I finally got around to torqueing the body mounts. I went 70'lbs on the front cab and 35'lbs on the rear cab.

For some reason I've developed vibration noises in the dash, doors and windows. The whole cab feels as if it is somewhat metal to metal as I have this constant vibration feel coming through the gas pedal which wasn't there before. These are new rubber mount kits installed per directions. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this and or will it eventually go away? Thanks

If it ain't one thing it's another...

Well I finally got around to chasing this vibration I was having.

1) Removed fan belts still there
2) R&R harmonic balancer still there
3) Removed tranny still there
4) Removed clutch and pressure plate still there
5) Removed front motor mounts and checked them still there
6) Raised the bell housing up off cross member mounts and here it is... these were brand new rubber but you can see the rubber going around got cut and the metal going around was making contact with the cross member hole, yeah I'm tired...