Project "49 No Buck$"

[kustombrad]

Now moving to the front of the truck, I cut off 8 1/2" of the front stub. Now I slid my front frame stub jig into place (slide back to marks made on concrete) to see where my frame/bumper brackets come out at. I made a crossmember out of 3/16" x 2" square tubing that I welded in place so that the bottom of the tube was the height the top of the stubs needed to be. (whew!) We made the bumper stubs out of some 2x3" 1/4" tubing had laying around (remember cheap!) After everything was welded into place, we welded flat plates (those actually held the truck up for layout and now have a new home!) on the front and tried to fill in everything nicely. It looks a little weird, but with the sheetmetal on you can only see the bumper stubs below the grille. So far so good and waaaaay low with all the suspension travel of a stock car (I love low, but don't like my kidneys bleeding from a crappy ride)!

[weldvair@embarqmail.]

When installing a Camaro IFS you usually use the upper shock holes to make sure the IFS is square in respect to the AD frame. THe G body shock holes are not symetrical, thus the question....what points did you use on the G body sub frame to measure to?

thanks Don

[booger1949]

i also built a 1949 truck on the cheap. 1981 malibu car for sub frame 100 dollars, 1973 camaro rearend 100 dollars,1988 astro van(4.3 v6 700r4 master cylinder drive shaft(exact fit) an variuos other parts) 300 dollars. an i did use the shock towers to square off every thing an it workd perfectly, truck drives strait an true. i welded mine in just about the same way

[50adrod]

nice looking welds and fab work

[Ben IV]

Truck looks great love the stance. from the start I was hoping you were gonna leave that paint as is and the lettering really sets it off.

[slugish]

LOW BUCK BUILD ?? what do you consider low buick . I coulnt afford the 5 window ( sweeet ) 50 truck for starters.

[kustombrad]

Hey Don... On that particular frame there were 2 sets of holes on the back of the frame behind the upper A-arm and another 3 sets in front. We measured out the front AND the back, cross checked them and used both sets. If you have one of those chassis, you can see all the different sets of holes Chevy was so nice to give us. DON'T use the body mount holes as they aren't even close! My shock holes were busy holding the allthread in place anyway, so I couldn't use those if they were straight. Thanks, Brad

[55dude]

great so far. those pic's are great and the bumper mount is sweet. your having too much fun building your cheap ride.

[kustombrad]

Here's how the stock motor mounts are located. They are too far forward in this spot for what I wanted. Thanks Chevrolet for making LOTS of other holes to move the mounts around! I took the 3 bolts out and slid them back to the next set, which is about an 1 1/4" from the front spot. Now I know stuff looks rough and messy, buts that's ok because I'm just building the truck roughly at this moment. When it's all built and all the fab work is done, it will come apart and get sandblasted, painted and put together with new fasteners, bushings, tie rods, etc. so I'm not worrying too much about perfection at this moment. The truck will be new and tight underneath, but like an old truck from the outside. Now that the mounts are slid back, the trans will hit the front of the firewall tunnel. I took a pair of channel locks and folded the lip back and under to get an extra 3/4" clearance for the trans ( a few smacks with a hammer to make it nice and even finishes it up) Next up.. Installing an engine and trans to put the exhaust together and installing the 69 Nova fuel tank (more cheap!!!)

[CAL 58 GMC]

Nice job on the clip! Your truck sits perfect!

[kustombrad]

I started on the exhaust with a pile of u-bends (3") that I'd bought on Ebay and a 10' tube of 3" muffler pipe I'd had laying around. Now being the cheap guy I am, I figured I'd rather make it than going to the muffler shop. I had a set of 1 5/8" med. tube Thorley headers and figured I'd start from there. I mocked up the left side and decided move the flange back. I cut off the original flange and after cutting up some bends moved it back another foot and a half. I went the high route because I didn't want the exhaust hanging too low and getting banged up. Next I did the pass. side. I hade to notch the frame a smidge (sorry, I like the word) so I had clearance for engine movement. Did the same with the flange on that side too. and then ran some pipe to the back of the cab. Trying to keep it all up high I figured I'd mount the mufflers at an angle, plus it keeps them out of the way. I need to finish adding the bolt flanges to the mufflers (thought I had enough and was 1 set short) so I need to finish those. Ended up using Magnaflow mufflers after deciding I wanted to drive the crap out of this thing and not be deaf from using Flowmasters! Went against my plan, because I already had the flowmasters. Oh well! I gas welded the tubes together and a mig for all the brackets and heavier stuff. After I ran the tubes over the rearend, I decided to kick them out about 2" to the inside of the leafsprings. You could run them out farther if you wanted, but I hate seeing pipes sticking out of the sides of the truck. I need to finish welding the tubes up and then we move to the fuel tank mounting!

[mylow53]

I've always wanted to ask what clearances should you have on the exhaust. i mean how close should your pipes be to you tank or your bed wood. also how close can you put your exhaust to wires.. what is the norm?
GT
ps i love your welding on your pipes!

[kustombrad]

Thanks! I always tried to keep exhaust at least an inch from anything too critical. On this one it will be a little different. Since it was a 3" system, room went away REAL fast. I'll end up wrapping this one in the close areas by the trans, master cylinder and frame. It's about an 1 1/2" away from any part of the fuel tank, so no worries there. I'll also end up covering the trans cooler lines when I run them, so they stay cool also. Hope that helps. By the way... You have a VERY nice truck!!!

[kustombrad]

I need a drivers window for this truck. Anybody have anything in not too bad of shape they want to sell? Thanks, Brad

[kustombrad]

Here's an illustration I just did for a guy who's doing a VERY cool frame up f100. He wanted to see how it was going to look finished. Should be cool!

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by kustombrad

Here's an illustration I just did for a guy who's doing a VERY cool frame up f100. He wanted to see how it was going to look finished. Should be cool!

When I was a kid my babysitters husban had a 56 F100 painted black with flames. I forget what kind of wheels he had on it at the time but it looked alot like your picture. He still has the truck and it`s still painted the same but now it`s tubbed with a Jag rearend and Centerline Convo Pro`s.

[VeronikA]

Originally Posted by kustombrad

Here's an illustration I just did for a guy who's doing a VERY cool frame up f100. He wanted to see how it was going to look finished. Should be cool!

Wow that's bad ass!!!!! I need more time to go thru your whole thread. Great project! It's really cool you share so many progress pics!!! It's gonna help to many of us!!!! Thanks a lot! I am still on the page 2 lol

Great job again!

[68c10owner]

Any updates?

[jak254]

Brad, Great project. I am trying to build the same project on the East coast. Are the wheels you have American Racing Hopsters and what are the offsets on the front wheels? I have a sub framed chassis and the hub to hub is 61.5", so I need a narrow wheel and around 4" of offset.
Thanks for sharing your build with us!

[68c10owner]

Originally Posted by jak254

Brad, Great project. I am trying to build the same project on the East coast. Are the wheels you have American Racing Hopsters and what are the offsets on the front wheels? I have a sub framed chassis and the hub to hub is 61.5", so I need a narrow wheel and around 4" of offset.
Thanks for sharing your build with us!

I`m pretty sure these are the wheels he has. you have to scroll down a little to see them

http://jdwheels.com/

[jak254]

Originally Posted by 68c10owner

I`m pretty sure these are the wheels he has. you have to scroll down a little to see them

http://jdwheels.com/

These are the wheels that I want.Anybody else bought them? Quality?
Has anybody bought from this company? With only"10" responses I am a little reluctant to buy from them.
Thanks

[67 cst swb]

Dude, love the wheels...

Originally Posted by kustombrad

These are on my "68 shortbox 2wd build...

[iehotrod]

Originally Posted by 67 cst swb

Dude, love the wheels...


These are on my "68 shortbox 2wd build...

You mean your 68 frame rails. LOL nah I Kid, I Kid...... I awsome wheels I totally dig them who makes them?

[jackson]

brad , my buddies are all telling me it cost just as much to do the mustang ll as it would your way with doing all the bushings balljoints etc. i told them they were on crack. tell me im wrong

[99 to Life]

The cheapest IFS I have seen complete was like 1100 and most are like 1800+ depending on your preference with bagging or what stages you want. I'd say you can considerably do the s-10 cheaper. I got my drop spindles used but pretty much bought new everything, stripped it and painted it and I'd have to look at receipts but I doubt it was even 1100 and we are talking front to back. It can be long debated but s-10 route will be cheaper. It's all preference. If I had money falling into my pockets I'd do IFS's on most builds but the s-10 has its pros and cons. I definitely like having the strength of the s-10 frame though. Just my take on it.