Door closing problem

[MikeB]

Driver's door on 69 C10 takes a lot of effort to close and release. It wasn't this way until we had paint and body work done by a shop. If I swing the door shut, it hits the A pillar part the door seal and bounces back. It will close if I push it very firmly or slam it.

With the door seal removed, I can open and close with one finger. The current seals have been installed for 2.5 years, so I don't expect them to ever work any better than they do now.

I supported the door and loosened the hinge bolts on the door side. Door is now pushed all the way outwards. That helped just a little, but it's still not as easy as it should be, or as easy as the passenger door.

The door does sit inwards about 1/16"-1/8" relative to the fender. But it seems to contact the seal on the A pillar just like the passenger door.

Looks like I have three choices here:
1) Elongate the slots on the door side of the hinge.
2) Try to shim the hinge on the body w/o having to remove the fender.
3) Buy a different door seal.

Obviously, a new seal would be easiest, but are their any differences between the various manufacturers? Unfortunately I don't know which manufacturer's seals were used.

[LockDoc]

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You don't mention the gap at the rear of the door but it sounds like you need to loosen the bolts behind the fender and slide the door back. You could try moving the striker out about 1/16", just don't let it slide down any.

LockDoc

[MikeB]

Gap around door is fairly consistent. And it's not a striker/latch issue. Rear of door is flush with cab. The problem is in the front where the door is trying to compress the seal.

[LockDoc]

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Take a look at this thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=741910

LockDoc

[pjmoreland]

I just reinstalled my driver side door a couple of weeks ago, and I had it lined up really well with the following features:

1) Height - horizontal creases in door lined up with matching creases at the back of the cab

2) Bottom edge of door curvature lined up with rocker panel, and consistent gap

3) Gap between pillar and vent window portion of door similar in size to gap at rear edge of door and cab

My door was brutally difficult to close with the precision clip on seals, so I went with a Honda Civic seal like in the link LockDoc posted, and all is well. My door will even close on its own by swinging it closed without pushing on it when the window is down.

[lux]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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Take a look at this thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=741910

LockDoc

I also used the Honda seals, I think they are great. Here are the ones I used;

[slikside]

Good info! Subscribed.

[leddzepp]

FWIW, I have used every seal type offered on these trucks, always had to slam the door or some other issue. The Honda Civic seals worked the best hands down. I’ve used them on three trucks now and no issues, doors all closed nice and easy as they should. Picked them all up from junkyards on the cheap too.

[Richard2112]

Yeah this is good info. Never woulda figured a honda part...

[pjmoreland]

The only down side to the Honda seal is that it has this extra flap on the interior side. I ended up trimming it off with a utility knife. Now it looks fairly close to stock.

[MikeB]

That's some great info guys! I'll give the Honda seals a try.

Found the seal part number on several Honda dealer websites, but thought I'd try my local dealer. Did an on-line chat asking for price and availability. But after 10 minutes worth of exchanges, I gave up. First she asked me for the year and model of my Honda, so I found that and gave it to her. She then asked me for the VIN, which I obviously I don't have. So I said, "Please just ask a parts guy to look up the part number." "Sorry," she said, "we can't do that without the VIN." Before signing off, I told her she must work for the dealer's Sales Prevention Department.

[lux]

72315-SVA-A01ZA (Right)
72355-SVA-A01ZA (Left)

[twotrucks]

I tried the push on seals and experienced problems like you describe. You can try adjusting the door out a little at the A pillar.
I fixed mine by going back to glue on seals. I used Metro Supersoft LM13-H available at Summit (MMP-LM13-H) and in stock. They work great.

[REDROCKER652002]

My son had the same issue after he put in new weatherstripping on the doors. He loosened the striker plate, adjusted and now it closes perfect. It needs a bit of tweaking, but there are other things that are taking precedence

[MikeB]

So just to get it straight, Honda seals are push-on, right?

[pjmoreland]

Yes

[MikeB]

What tools are needed to remove the seals from a junkyard car? Anything other than a phillips screwdriver?

[pjmoreland]

There is a plastic sill plate that has to be removed. I think there might be some fasteners somewhere on it, but I just ripped it off by hand.

[03BlkZ]

It has to be the door seals. I originally used LMC door seals and I physically could not close the doors. It was literally impossible to close them. I ordered some from Steele Rubber products and the doors close perfectly now.

[MikeB]

Went to 5 junkyards and found 4 Civic coupes. Only one had a driver's side door seal, and it was torn badly. Ended up getting 2 passenger side seals, and just now installed one of them on the driver's side of my truck. All I had to do was rotate it 90 degrees.

I suspect there are some minor differences between left and right seals, such as some pre-bends, but nothing that I noticed. I did have to pinch the metal-backed seal with pliers in a couple places to make it grip tighter. But it's 10X better than dealing with glue-on seals that never stay glued on.

I'll have to remove some weather-stripping adhesive that's now exposed on the inside of the cab. I also may look at ways to paint the gray-colored part on the inside edge of the seals, but that's not a big deal even if I leave it alone.

Amazing that these seals are the perfect length for my truck!

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by 03BlkZ

I ordered some from Steele Rubber products and the doors close perfectly now.

Are they press-on or glue-on?

[03BlkZ]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Are they press-on or glue-on?

The ones I got from Steele rubber products are push on.

[03BlkZ]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Are they press-on or glue-on?

Here is the link to the ones I bought. A little pricy but were perfect.
https://www.steelerubber.com/door-se...yle-70-3881-72

[CC69Rat]

I use the push on ones from GMC Pauls. The key is you have to cut a slightly angled (opposing angle) cut on the end of the new seals. Put the center joint where you start the install along the bottom edge of the rocker. Work it around the door frame of course but where they meet you want about 15 degree cut to create a bit of an air gap where the start / stop meet. (If that makes sense?) You wont be able to see the gap looking down from the top but when the door closes theres a space there where the weather strip will kinda squish together. If they are super tight together they dont have anywhere to go and kinda squish as the door closes. That's why it's hard to close the doors.

Try it.. it will help. It will still be snug, yes but not something you'll need to adjust the door to be acceptable.

[57larry]

more good tech, thanks