1964 Chevy C10 (Old School build No Bolt On’s)

[birch motor cars]

This is a build that I decided to do using no bolt on mail order front and rear suspension parts \ new chassis. It’s pretty much as old school as you can get. Let’s face it 99% of us really can’t afford to build a hi dollar hot rod and with a family and other obligations I’m one of those guys. I started out with a 1964 Chevy C10 big back window shortbed (yes a real shorted). It was found in Phoenix,AZ as a cab sitting on its original frame, then the fleet side bed was found along with fenders and a hood all from different trucks. Needless to say the truck was five different colors. I’ll start from the front suspension, now keep in mind I’ve done all the fabrication and labor myself. I took 2” out of the front crossmember (pancake), when I put the crossmember back in I mounted it 1” forward from where it was to get the wheel Centered in the wheelwell. I cupped the lower control arm pocket, added CCP disc brake set up with a 2” dropped spindle. In doing all of this I had to radious the bottom frame rail for the steering to clear. Also had to relocate the steering box forward and up to compensate for all of these changes. I had to fab up new upper shock mounts that relocated the top mount to the top of the frame rail. Rear suspension crossmember was pancaked at the bottom and relocated it in the truck 1” towards the rear to center the wheel in the wheelwell. It’s been a long road but very rewarding to be able to do all of this myself. In the middle of all that I was doing body work. I just painted it three weeks ago in my garage and it turned out great. I’ll get some pictures posted soon.

[pdxhall]

Looking forward to seeing some pics. I hate to mention it but you have already used bolt on parts with the ccp spindles and disc brakes.

[birch motor cars]

Originally Posted by pdxhall

Looking forward to seeing some pics. I hate to mention it but you have already used bolt on parts with the ccp spindles and disc brakes.

You are so correct. What I meant by the bolt on high dollar stuff was the mail order front and rear suspensions that cost so much along with complete new chassis these guys are buying. Im not disrespecting them Im just saying the ordinary guy like myself cant afford to play in that sand box and wanted to show that the ordinary guy can do it the old school way and get the same outcome.

[Captainfab]

Welcome to the forum

Back in the day before dropped spindles were available, the lower control arms were stepped and '71-'87 spindles were used.

[birch motor cars]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Welcome to the forum

Back in the day before dropped spindles were available, the lower control arms were stepped and '71-'87 spindles were used.

Thanks for the welcome. You are correct, by the way I have built my truck so far off of what Jason Doisher did on both of his trucks (Ms Maggie C10) (Jasons farm truck). Im originally from So Cal and moved to NW Iowa 14 years ago and here there are no trucks for me to look at of this caliber to get ideas or how they did things. I have to go solely by pictures on the internet and talking to people (Jason) for information. If Im not mistaken he built off of what you built ?

[birch motor cars]

This is a build that I decided to do using no bolt on store bought suspension parts. It’s pretty much as old school as you can get. Let’s face it 99% of us really can’t afford to build a hi dollar hot rod and with a family and other obligations I’m one of those guys. I started out with a 1964 Chevy C10 big back window shortbed (yes a real shorted). It was found in Phoenix,AZ as a cab sitting on its original frame, then the fleet side bed was found along with fenders and a hood all from different trucks. Needless to say the truck was five different colors. I’ll start from the front suspension, now keep in mind I’ve done all the fabrication and labor myself. I took 2” out of the front crossmember (pancake), when I put the crossmember back in I mounted it 1” forward from where it was to get the wheel Centered in the wheelwell. I cupped the lower control arm pocket, added CCP disc brake set up with a 2” dropped spindle. In doing all of this I had to radious the bottom frame rail for the steering to clear. Also had to relocate the steering box forward and up to compensate for all of these changes. I had to fab up new upper shock mounts that relocated the top mount to the top of the frame rail. Rear suspension crossmember was pancaked at the bottom and relocated it in the truck 1” towards the rear to center the wheel in the wheelwell. It’s been a long road but very rewarding to be able to do all of this myself. In the middle of all that I was doing body work. I just painted it three weeks ago in my garage and it turned out great. I’ll get some pictures posted soon.

[birch motor cars]

[birch motor cars]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1540405727

[birch motor cars]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1540405963

[birch motor cars]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1540406274

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by birch motor cars

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1540405727

[SCOTI]

I'm liking it

[The Rocknrod]

I must have attended an "older school". Gonna be nice though.

[FLATFENDER54]

Looks like its gonna be killer

[DPowers]

Nice work.

[PGSigns]

Looks good. I like the stance. One thing you may want to do with your bags that far forward is brace the trailing arms, The were not designed to take that much load in the center. To give you an idea of the load they will see if the rear weight is close to the factory weight of about 1700 pounds each trailing arm would have 850 pounds on it directly under the axle. if the bag is near the center of the trailing arm it will take twice that load to lift the rear of the truck with the mechanical advantage the trailing arm has over it. It will also take a lot more air in the bag to lift it. Then there are dynamic and shock loads the truck sees while driving that may drive the loads way up over that. The closer the spring or bag to the axle center the better it will work.
Jimmy

[nsb29]

Your truck looks good I like the way you did the paint But I have a stupid question why do you pancake the front crossmember

[birch motor cars]

Originally Posted by nsb29

Your truck looks good I like the way you did the paint But I have a stupid question why do you pancake the front crossmember

You pancake it or buy a porterbuilt drop member so your lower A-Arms wont hit the ground. When you go this low the lowest point of the truck will be the lower a-arms dragging the ground before the frame hits the ground (it allows you to go lower). Now I can lay the frame and the a-arms are off the ground.

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by birch motor cars

You pancake it or buy a porterbuilt drop member so your lower A-Arms wont hit the ground. When you go this low the lowest point of the truck will be the lower a-arms dragging the ground before the frame hits the ground (it allows you to go lower). Now I can lay the frame and the a-arms are off the ground.

I knew it was a stupid question now I have gone back and looked I see what you’re doing I have a friend that owns a company called Jimmies hot rod he builds custom frames makes all his own parts I’m amazed how many brand new trucks end up in his shop for a complete frames sometimes with less than a few 100 miles on them as well as the older trucks I have never been interested in laying my frame but I really enjoy looking at the craftsmanship that goes into it

[birch motor cars]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

Looks good. I like the stance. One thing you may want to do with your bags that far forward is brace the trailing arms, The were not designed to take that much load in the center. To give you an idea of the load they will see if the rear weight is close to the factory weight of about 1700 pounds each trailing arm would have 850 pounds on it directly under the axle. if the bag is near the center of the trailing arm it will take twice that load to lift the rear of the truck with the mechanical advantage the trailing arm has over it. It will also take a lot more air in the bag to lift it. Then there are dynamic and shock loads the truck sees while driving that may drive the loads way up over that. The closer the spring or bag to the axle center the better it will work.
Jimmy

Thanks, the stance you see is actually ride height, the truck aired out will lay on the frame. The bag placement I actually copied another guy that has it on 2 of his trucks with no problems but will keep an eye out. Thanks for the heads up.

[oldtimer1959]

Nice work - paint looks great.

[birch motor cars]

Originally Posted by oldtimer1959

Nice work - paint looks great.

Thanks bud, I'm really happy with how its turning out, it really looks like original faded\warn out paint in my opinion. Ive talked to a ton of painters and truck builders about how to go about this and like I said Im happy so far how it turned out. Most people dont like the fake patina paint, I cant wait to get the chrome side trim installed and the correct tires and wheels on it. That should change the whole appearance.

[Android04]

Looking good. I did a fauxtina job on mine as well, kind of hard to pull off to be perfect but it looks great.

-Andrew

[birch motor cars]

Originally Posted by Android04

Looking good. I did a fauxtina job on mine as well, kind of hard to pull off to be perfect but it looks great.

-Andrew

Thanks bud. You can check out more pictures on my Intagram Birch_Motor_Cars .

[birch motor cars]

Originally Posted by Android04

Looking good. I did a fauxtina job on mine as well, kind of hard to pull off to be perfect but it looks great.

-Andrew

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