Dug's 1959 Fleetside

[dug224]

Got the new-ish smaller back tires on that match the fronts. I am real pleased with the wheel spacing in the front and back wheel openings. Stance is a little less aggressive and will go down further once the spare, tailgate and back bumper are in place.

[Advanced Design]

Wheels are spot on. Looks really good!

[Kim57]

Maybe it's just me but the rears look a little bit forward.
Fronts look real good.
Kim

[dug224]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Wheels are spot on. Looks really good!

Originally Posted by Kim57

Maybe it's just me but the rears look a little bit forward.
Fronts look real good.
Kim

Doug/Kim: Thanks for the input. Very much appreciated. This truck build has turned into a study of my ability to compromise and an effort of weighing my desires against my abilities. I go from thinking "it couldn't look any better than it does" to "maybe I could move it back and inch or so". This applies to almost everything I've done on the truck to date. All things considered (mostly my lack of ability), I'm happy with where the back wheels landed....but, deep down, I would have loved to see them magically slide back a bit.

Mounting the power steering cooling coil and gas filler neck next. Two things, I am happy to say, that are not that interesting aesthetically.

Rain has finally stopped so the bed parts will make it to the blaster tomorrow. dug

[Kim57]

Truck looks good.
Your ability seems to be working out just fine.
Kim

[dug224]

In an attempt to remove some easy stuff from the TO DO list, I permanently installed the dangling power steering cooling coil (see first picture) under the left front fender. Was trying to install in front of the radiator but it was just too tight. In addition, I still have a A/C condenser coil and a pusher electric cooling fan to install that I don't yet own. I was able to mount the coil using two of the 10 mm bolts that hold the PCM in place on the top side of the inner fender. The long narrow Envoy/TB cooler that came with the frame was mounted between the frame rails at the very front of the car and was smashed in wreck. I picked up a unit that I believe came from a late model Ford truck. Spent about 45 minutes re-curving the coil's aluminum supply a return lines to get them where I needed them. The lines are pretty soft so they moved easily and, although they are still perfectly round, I manged to not kink or break them in the process. Spent another 30 minutes straightening the coil fins. Overall, great location until I have a blowout and tear it off the inner fender. One side of the coil gets a factory hard pipe with integral rubber hose. Instead of trying to re-bend the metal line, I bought a $3.00 barbed fitting and extended it with 3/8" hose to the current location.

[dug224]

Body parts are at the blaster. I got a really good deal on a new bumper that the chrome is coming off of so I sent it as well. Blaster said he could get the chrome off. Can't wait to see that.

Started on the Headlight buckets. Heated and scraped the undercoating off of them then ran them through the blast cabinet. They are now primed and painted. Ordered the rebuild parts off of eBay for $18.00. The previous owner had removed all but one of the adjustment screws and drilled holes in bucket so he could use nuts and screws which are not adjustable.

[dug224]

Finally got most of the parts for my gas filler assembly. On the top side, I used a Polished Stainless Boat Deck Filler Cap (Keyless Angled 1-1/2") I got off of eBay. Used a 1-3/4" hole saw to make the large hole. Had to file it a bit to get the angled portion of the filler assembly through the hole. I initially used metal screws to hold it in place. Ran up to Home Depot and bought some 10-32 SS screws and locking nuts for the final install. I'll add a small gasket between the Filler and the truck tub to keep water from slinging up into the bed. Installation looks clean and was simple to perform. Next post shows the bottom side.

[dug224]

On the bottom side, I used a Gates #24715 Fuel Hose (1-1/2" - 90 Degree) and a copper plumbing 1-1/4" x 3/4" Reducer. To utilize the factor bracket that holds up the steel filler tube on top of the frame, I will need add one more fitting to make the turn between the Gates Hose and the Reducer. I'll have to buy a 1-1/4" street elbow to do the final connect. See third photo. Forth photo is from under truck showing the 1" steel fill tube from the factory. Fifth photo is shot under the truck of the other end of the 1" tube at the tank. By the way, the factory fill system does not have a vent. Crawled under my buddy's '08 TB the other day and his had a vent. Hoping we haven't added any significant pressure drop to the system that may react badly with the gas pump pressure sensor. I'll devise a shield of some sort to lower the chances of a blowout ripping this out from under the tub.

[ChuckDriver]

Well done!

[Kim57]

Very nice install.
Kim

[dug224]

Kim/JJ: Thanks!

Done. Purchased the 1-1/4" 45 degree street elbow and it soldered to the reducer. Perfect angle. Cut the factory ground wire off of the Envoy neck, drilled a hole in it and attached to the filler door assembly. Trimmed about 3/4" off of the vertical portion of the 90 degree filler tube in order to get the pitch of the lower horizontal portion correct. When I reassemble it after paint, rather than cutting a rubber gasket, I'll use a bit of caulk I use to waterproof my camper.

[dug224]

Things are moving quickly!! James just texted me some shots of the freshly blasted driver side bedside.

[tpimuncie]

Nice!

[Kim57]

Filler came out real nice.
Bed side looks good.
Kim

[Nut Case]

Sweating copper pipe is a good skill to have good job. I like the fuel cap and routing, picked up good information. Keep on keepin on. NutCase

[dug224]

Thanks for the comments guys.

Got a late birthday gift from one of my kids. An authentic sales poster from 1959 framed!! Note that the '59 is "handier and handsomer, has a "stronger sinewed (look that one up) cab " and has "tighter fisted power" Man, didn't know I was getting all of that. dug

[dug224]

Dennis: Per your request, see photo of how I measured firewall to center of shock tower nut/bolt. Measurement is 15-1/4". Placed the square up under the cab flange and plumbed down. Too difficult to try to translate to the center of the wheel so I took this shortcut. Went ahead and included on the thread in the event others are trying to zero in on cab location. for a '58/'59. Would assume 55-1/2 thru '57 would be the same but now sure.

By the way, finally created a condition that created front tire rub on fender. When leaving a pretty steep driveway ramp with wheels turned sharply, they rub slightly. In other words, the front and back tires on opposite corners are both high. I typically don't drive it like this so rubbing should not be a routine occurrence. Rolling the lip up may help and I may investigate this before body work and paint.

[dsraven]

ok, thanks for the pic Dugg. much appreciated. if my tires rub I will probably move the flare on the fenders outward if need be. I will also need to look at tire sizes because the stock tires will probably look huge in the opening. my tires will need to be all the same size due to AWD.

[dug224]

Got another easy task off the list. Bought and installed new front brake calipers, rotors and hydraulic lines. Front brakes were sticking and the system appeared to have air in it. Trying to get the brakes sorted so I can decide on brake and gas pedal placement. Will cut and weld into new locations when I send cab to the blaster.

Finally found the 17" spare that matches the O.D. of my 18" tires. Unusual tire size at 245/50r17. It is a used Michelin in decent shape mounted and balanced for $30.

[dsraven]

just as a side bar for you on the brakes.
the abutment plates (those stainless steel plate things that come with the pad set usually) that fit onto the caliper mounts where the pads fit up, are prone to rust underneath. the abutment plates get pushed outwards from the rust swelling up underneath and make the pads fit tight so they don't slide well. I usually sandblast these brackets and also pull the caliper mounting hardware pins out of the brackets, clean the bores and pins, grease well with delco synthetic brake lube, and assemble. put a layer of the lube onto the back side of the pads as well, wherever they contact the brake caliper pistons and also the caliper mount bracket. I usually put a liberal coating on the underside and top side of the abutment plates as well, where the pads actually fit in. anywhere that the new pads will contact other than the friction surfaces. we get extreme weather up here in Canada and this is what works best for here, can't be that wrong for other areas with humidity. also, where the rotors fit against the flanges, usually some antiseize compound just to keep the rust off. I undwerstand you are installing new stuff but you can lube accordingly to keepthe rust devils at bay.
the air in the brakes may be due to trapped air in the antilock brake motor valve system. it takes a scanner to open the valves in that unit so it can be bled out. maybe have to "take it in" when you are all done and ready to put tags on it.
I wish I was as far ahead as you are. buddy just dropped off the doors for his '54 for me to do some bodywork and spray some high build. gonna get on that when the audi tt is out of the shop..........another day another issue, haha.

[dsraven]

oh, good snag on the spare. have you found a spot to install a spare or are you gonna put one in?

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

oh, good snag on the spare. have you found a spot to install a spare or are you gonna put one in?

Spare will be in factory location utilizing the factory winch in front of the soon to be modified factory receiver hitch. The side plates on the hitch will be cut and extend down so the receiver lines up behind the spring loaded license plate holder.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

just as a side bar for you on the brakes.
the abutment plates (those stainless steel plate things that come with the pad set usually) that fit onto the caliper mounts where the pads fit up, are prone to rust underneath. the abutment plates get pushed outwards from the rust swelling up underneath and make the pads fit tight so they don't slide well. I usually sandblast these brackets and also pull the caliper mounting hardware pins out of the brackets, clean the bores and pins, grease well with delco synthetic brake lube, and assemble. put a layer of the lube onto the back side of the pads as well, wherever they contact the brake caliper pistons and also the caliper mount bracket. I usually put a liberal coating on the underside and top side of the abutment plates as well, where the pads actually fit in. anywhere that the new pads will contact other than the friction surfaces. we get extreme weather up here in Canada and this is what works best for here, can't be that wrong for other areas with humidity. also, where the rotors fit against the flanges, usually some antiseize compound just to keep the rust off. I undwerstand you are installing new stuff but you can lube accordingly to keepthe rust devils at bay.
the air in the brakes may be due to trapped air in the antilock brake motor valve system. it takes a scanner to open the valves in that unit so it can be bled out. maybe have to "take it in" when you are all done and ready to put tags on it.
I wish I was as far ahead as you are. buddy just dropped off the doors for his '54 for me to do some bodywork and spray some high build. gonna get on that when the audi tt is out of the shop..........another day another issue, haha.

Didn't see any rust to speak of. All the stainless was still stainless. Had one sliding pin that was a bit dry but it wasn't even on the side that was the worst. This frame had a bunch of miles on it so I went for the full clean up. Man, I hope I don't have to scan to get the air out. I hope the fact that I was able to drain the brake fluid through all four corners today using my buddy Jim's pressurizing contraption means I'm off the hook. I'll let you know how the final bleed goes tomorrow.

By the way, to give others who may be contemplating a body swap like ours, I could have bought a 2006 Envoy XL yesterday in the IN-OP lane at the auction for $350 plus auction fees. Vehicle was in tact, had a 6 cylinder and had 143k on the clock. It was not wrecked so I am not sure what was wrong with it. It would have certainly been a good starting point especially in light of the fact that you could have recouped some of the money, if not all, selling off body parts.

[dug224]

Finished the brake job. Was't happy with the pedal travel so I replaced the master cylinder as well. Ended up buying a Harbor Freight compressed air powered vacuum bleeder (#92924) and dragged another 20 oz through the system. The HF tool worked great. Still not entirely happy with the pedal travel but is closer to the 2.4" factory requirement than I was. May ultimately have to take the ABS module out of the system since I have nothing controlling it and you can't modulate it manually to get out any air that may be in there. Will drive it around the neighborhood once the rain stops to see how they really feel.

Started seat belt install. Initially started trying to the fit the adjustable shoulder mount but decided a fixed position would be easier to install not to mention easier to finish aesthetically. Found a little more structure behind the post than expected. I'll surface weld the 6" bracket and drive really defensively to keep from having to structurally test my solution in real life. The seat belt reel will be mounted inside the cab corner area using a short piece of angle iron bolted through a plate below the cab floor ..