Working Man's Burbon

[Advanced Design]

Interesting. Hadn't heard of the company or product so I checked out the video and information they provide. That is a good idea. Thanks for the share.

[Dieselwrencher]

I'm curious as to your wiper upgrade. It looks like a nicely built set up. I need to get one for mine. I've been waiting for a board member to finish his latest batch but this 2 speed system is driving me nuts!

[HO455]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I'm curious as to your wiper upgrade. It looks like a nicely built set up. I need to get one for mine. I've been waiting for a board member to finish his latest batch but this 2 speed system is driving me nuts!

The wipers have worked well in the shop but I have yet to venture out in the real world. I have some other things to straighten out first. I know if I don't do them now I'll just learn to live with them and they may never get fixed. I will post a report after some real world testing.

[HO455]

Installed bump stops on the front end today. Simple install, drill hole (finding the right place took thirty minutes) and bolt down. The PO cut the old ones off and since then it has used the ends of the sway bar for bump stops if it was aired out. I also believe the front passenger side upper shock mount was broken due to no bump stops. First photo before, second shows the spot where the sway bar rubbed and the new bump stop at about normal ride height. Third is aired out on the stop. The fourth is the bump stops I used. The last one is additional damage on the sway bar bushings. I still need to come up with some sort of steering stops. Time to hit the forums.

[HO455]

Today I redid some of the fuel lines on the WMB. The PO had put a electric fuel pump and just ran hose to hook it up. Took steel tubing and replaced as much of the hose as I could and added a prefilter for the pump and ditched the clear plastic filter at the carb (just above the headers). The pictures show the changes best. After I was finished I found that I had removed 37" of hose. The prefilter is 140 mesh screen and cleanable. The filter is a 40 micron Baldwin. I did the supply to the pump in 3/8" for future needs. The last photo is of one of the fittings I was using. I was blowing out all the fittings before installing then when I found this one with a filing stuck in it from the matching process. It took a bit of work with a small screwdriver and a file to clean it out. Glad I saw it as it was the fitting that I installing at the pump inlet. I'm sure it would have chowed my pump sooner or later. The heater hose got repositioned so it no longer rubs on the fuel pressure regulator.

[HO455]

While doing the inlet line to the fuel regulator I noticed that the top flange of the frame is bent up. It kinda looks factory but the lower radiator hose rubs on it. I know the engine isn't stock but I would have figured that 85 305 water pump inlet hose would be the same as a 67's. Please look at the pictures and let me know. If I have to get in there and bend it back down it would be nice to know.

[notchbackgta]

That is a factory bend in the frame. You could try unhooking the lower hose and turn it a bit, putting some "preload" on it so it doesn't rest against the frame. That is what I did on my truck since the hose was close

[LockDoc]

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I just cut a 3" piece of old radiator hose, split it, and installed it on the lower hose where it rested on the frame.

LockDoc

[HO455]

Thanks guys. I put a piece of that extra fuel hose to use over the offending edge. It's good to know I don't have to try and straighten the frame. After that big repair I still had some time to put some cowl screens on along with a new cowl seal. It took two tries on the screens as the first set was assembled backwards. Fortunately when I went down to return them they had a second set on the shelf. I was thinking I got lucky, but if I was truly lucky I would have never got the bad set to start with. Once I got the correctly assembled ones they fit right on with no issue. The cowl seal seemed a little short as if it had shrunk. I glued about two inches of the center to the cowl panel, set it on the cowl and then pulled the ends outwards to get the holes ins the seal to line up.

[notchbackgta]

Originally Posted by HO455

The cowl seal seemed a little short as if it had shrunk.

Mine was short too. I put in a screw on one end part way, then went to the other side and pulled it until the last hole lined up, and the rest were then close.

[HO455]

It makes one wonder if they were made for a different vehicle and someone decided "it's close enough" for a 67-72.

[Dieselwrencher]

Very nice install on that! I have the touche' on my 72 and it doesn't like cold weather. I called aire jax and they said to put about 15 drops of oil, or air tool oil in the inlets to help lube the valves. So you might want to do that before you button it up. My rh valve will stick airing up and is kind of a PITA. It has only done it in the cold, but I figured I'd pass the info along to save you some hassle later.

[HO455]

Great idea! Now where is that can of Marvel Mystery Oil?
Thanks Dieselwrencher!

[Advanced Design]

That is some nice fab work for the plumbing. Good ideas!

[HO455]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

That is some nice fab work for the plumbing. Good ideas!

Thanks AD.
I'm waiting for the last fitting to show up (ordered six, got five correct ones and one incorrect fitting. It's always something) and then I can get it all buttoned up for some completed photos.

[Bomp]

You are a better man than I. Great fixes on po butchered areas.
Following along from here on out.

[HO455]

Thank you and merry Christmas.

[HO455]

I'm hoping someone can tell me if my glove box door, ash tray, gauge panel, and dash pad were painted this color at the factory? If so what color is it? Thanks in advance.

[HO455]

Made more progress on the four valve project. The two valve MIC panel was bolted to the dash with the heater control bolts. When I unbolted it I found that the threads in the heater had been stripped and now were through bolted, not a problem but I also noticed that the top heater control lever was broke off. (I haven't driven the WMB in the cold yet) I was able to obtain a used lever from Dan's Classic. The interesting part is that someone had already replaced the top lever with a bottom lever by flipping in and using washers to get the lever to line up. I spent a hour lubing up the cables and the flapper which seemed to be causing most of the resistance. It appears that my floor/defroster flapper holes are ovaled and may be contributing to the resistance issue. I may have to pull the heater box at some point and address this. There was a small kink in the cable right at the clip on the heater box. I was was able to work most of the kink out but couldn't put the cable back in the clip without adding significantly to the resistance. The other thing I noticed was if I tightened the screw at the flapper end of the cable down tight the resistance went up. It works better when the end can swivel. For now I have left it loose, but I'm sure that eventually the screw will fall out. Maybe locktite will prevent that. The photos show the heater controls before the repair. It may help someone with a broken lever and a spare one that's not correct repair their lever. The part number on the lever is correct for the lower lever on a non A/C control.

[HO455]

I fabbed a sheet aluminum mount for the new air bag guages (or do I spell it gages since I'm talking about installing them on a GM). I didn't want to drill holes in the dash so the plate is sandwiched between the heater controls and the dash and is held in place by the heater screws. I am happy with the how they look, with the exception that when the lights are on you can see them glowing through the white plastic gauge body and illuminating the heater box and floor. Most likely I will have to paint the gauge bodies as that just bugs me. I got the last fittings I was waiting for so now the lines for the guages are done and now I just need to jack the WMB up and set it on stands for the last part of disconnecting the old and hooking into the new. Then let the leak checking begin.
I also did the headlight relay conversion. Left the factory plugs in place just in case I had a relay failure I could unplug the relays and swap the plugs on the headlights and be back in service. I still need to figure a better connector to plug into the old headlight connectors. Currently I just have the relay coil leads plugged into the passenger side headlight connector with 1/4" male spade terminals which aren't ideal. The last photo is the relays and the circuit breakers installed. I will need to fab up some kind of shield for them.

[markizme]

Originally Posted by HO455

I'm hoping someone can tell me if my glove box door, ash tray, gauge panel, and dash pad were painted this color at the factory? If so what color is it? Thanks in advance.

My 68 GMC is light green and The glove box door and dash bezel are CHARCOAL GREY I believe with ARGENT SILVER trim

[HO455]

Originally Posted by markizme

My 68 GMC is light green and The glove box door and dash bezel are CHARCOAL GREY I believe with ARGENT SILVER trim

Thanks for replying. I'm sorry I missed this earlier. Do you think your bezel and door are the same color as mine? I'd like to repaint the jockey box door and ash tray but my bezel is in great shape and wouldn't need painting. So I would like to know what color I need to match.

[Advanced Design]

Burb is looking very good!

[HO455]

Thanks a lot. It's no where near as nice as your stuff, but someday maybe?

[Dieselwrencher]

It is looking great! I'm not sure if the grey on the bezel, ash tray, and glove box is factory. I'm guessing if it was factory, the entire bezel wouldn't have been painted. Just the inner rough portion. but that is just my guess.