IFS or Mustang II front end applications?

[mschwader]

I have a 62 C20. I was told to check out Mustang II IFS or other IFS. Can anyone recommend one? I've found 63-87 applications but nothing for 60-62 yet.
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[62stepside longbox]

60-62 have the same frame rail width in the front as 63-87 so if it fits 63-87 it will fit 60-62 just a bit more work, holes need to be drilled and some other stuff. Why do you want a mustang 2 IFS? Check out dropmembers made by companies like cpp and chopping block

[Captainfab]

What is your reasoning for changing the front suspension? Is there a reason you don't want to use a '71-'87 C10 front suspension?

[mschwader]

For the price of the IFS I can't see how I could go wrong. By the time I find a front end out of a newer truck I'll end up having to buy all new replacement parts (calipers, rotors, coil springs, shocks, control arms, etc) which will cost almost triple what I can spend on some of the IFS I'm finding online.

[patrickk1]

Originally Posted by mschwader

For the price of the IFS I can't see how I could go wrong. By the time I find a front end out of a newer truck I'll end up having to buy all new replacement parts (calipers, rotors, coil springs, shocks, control arms, etc) which will cost almost triple what I can spend on some of the IFS I'm finding online.

You do realize that your factory frontend is IFS, correct?

I seriously doubt a mustang ii conversion would cost less than a cross member swap, unless someone is giving you one for practically free.

What are you plans/goal for this truck? Factory height, lowered cruiser, bagged truck, slammed race truck?

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by mschwader

For the price of the IFS I can't see how I could go wrong. By the time I find a front end out of a newer truck I'll end up having to buy all new replacement parts (calipers, rotors, coil springs, shocks, control arms, etc) which will cost almost triple what I can spend on some of the IFS I'm finding online.

Originally Posted by Captainfab

What is your reasoning for changing the front suspension? Is there a reason you don't want to use a '71-'87 C10 front suspension?

Here is a list of the parts to completely rebuild a typical '71-'87 C10 front suspension:

New parts for 1977 Chevrolet C10 front suspension (RockAuto pricing)

Calipers Loaded with pads Raybestos $45.88
Calipers Loaded with pads Raybestos $45.88
Rotors #5006R Raybestos $42.79
Rotors #5006R Raybestos $42.79
Wheel Bearings Inner, SET5 Timken $5.77
Wheel Bearings Inner, SET5 Timken $5.77
Wheel Bearings Outer, SET3 Timken $5.40
Wheel Bearings Outer, SET3 Timken $5.40
Wheel Seal 8835S Timken $1.87
Wheel Seal 8835S Timken $1.87
Brake Hose Front Right Raybestos $11.58
Brake Hose Front left Raybestos $11.58
Control Arm Bushing Upper, K6138 Moog $10.59
Control Arm Bushing Upper, K6138 Moog $10.59
Control Arm Bushing Lower, K6137 Moog $15.57
Control Arm Bushing Lower, K6137 Moog $15.57
Ball Joint Upper, K6136 Moog $26.79
Ball Joint Upper, K6136 Moog $26.79
Ball Joint Lower, K6117T Moog $22.79
Ball Joint Lower, K6117T Moog $22.79
Shock Front, #33033 Monroe $20.79
Shock Front, #33033 Monroe $20.79
Idler Arm K6096T Moog $24.79
Tie Rod Inner, ES409LT Moog $15.56
Tie Rod Inner, ES409LT Moog $15.56
Tie Rod Outer, ES409RT Moog $15.53
Tie Rod Outer, ES409RT Moog $15.53
Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve ES2004S Quick Steer $2.41
Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve ES2004S Quick Steer $2.41
Steering Gear, Power Reman. #277512 A-1 Cardone $132.79

Total: $644.22


Plus the front suspension from a junkyard, plus new lowering springs, I don't see how you could go over $1000.

[mschwader]

One of the main reasons why I love this forum. Thanks for sending all the info below. I currently have a front end from a 67. Getting the drop spindles for that plus all the parts below is where I found the cost to jump over $1000

Originally Posted by aggie91

Here is a list of the parts to completely rebuild a typical '71-'87 C10 front suspension:

New parts for 1977 Chevrolet C10 front suspension (RockAuto pricing)

Calipers Loaded with pads Raybestos $45.88
Calipers Loaded with pads Raybestos $45.88
Rotors #5006R Raybestos $42.79
Rotors #5006R Raybestos $42.79
Wheel Bearings Inner, SET5 Timken $5.77
Wheel Bearings Inner, SET5 Timken $5.77
Wheel Bearings Outer, SET3 Timken $5.40
Wheel Bearings Outer, SET3 Timken $5.40
Wheel Seal 8835S Timken $1.87
Wheel Seal 8835S Timken $1.87
Brake Hose Front Right Raybestos $11.58
Brake Hose Front left Raybestos $11.58
Control Arm Bushing Upper, K6138 Moog $10.59
Control Arm Bushing Upper, K6138 Moog $10.59
Control Arm Bushing Lower, K6137 Moog $15.57
Control Arm Bushing Lower, K6137 Moog $15.57
Ball Joint Upper, K6136 Moog $26.79
Ball Joint Upper, K6136 Moog $26.79
Ball Joint Lower, K6117T Moog $22.79
Ball Joint Lower, K6117T Moog $22.79
Shock Front, #33033 Monroe $20.79
Shock Front, #33033 Monroe $20.79
Idler Arm K6096T Moog $24.79
Tie Rod Inner, ES409LT Moog $15.56
Tie Rod Inner, ES409LT Moog $15.56
Tie Rod Outer, ES409RT Moog $15.53
Tie Rod Outer, ES409RT Moog $15.53
Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve ES2004S Quick Steer $2.41
Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve ES2004S Quick Steer $2.41
Steering Gear, Power Reman. #277512 A-1 Cardone $132.79

Total: $644.22


Plus the front suspension from a junkyard, plus new lowering springs, I don't see how you could go over $1000.

[mschwader]

If I were to find a 77 front end does it bolt right in to a 62 frame?

Originally Posted by aggie91

Here is a list of the parts to completely rebuild a typical '71-'87 C10 front suspension:

New parts for 1977 Chevrolet C10 front suspension (RockAuto pricing)

Calipers Loaded with pads Raybestos $45.88
Calipers Loaded with pads Raybestos $45.88
Rotors #5006R Raybestos $42.79
Rotors #5006R Raybestos $42.79
Wheel Bearings Inner, SET5 Timken $5.77
Wheel Bearings Inner, SET5 Timken $5.77
Wheel Bearings Outer, SET3 Timken $5.40
Wheel Bearings Outer, SET3 Timken $5.40
Wheel Seal 8835S Timken $1.87
Wheel Seal 8835S Timken $1.87
Brake Hose Front Right Raybestos $11.58
Brake Hose Front left Raybestos $11.58
Control Arm Bushing Upper, K6138 Moog $10.59
Control Arm Bushing Upper, K6138 Moog $10.59
Control Arm Bushing Lower, K6137 Moog $15.57
Control Arm Bushing Lower, K6137 Moog $15.57
Ball Joint Upper, K6136 Moog $26.79
Ball Joint Upper, K6136 Moog $26.79
Ball Joint Lower, K6117T Moog $22.79
Ball Joint Lower, K6117T Moog $22.79
Shock Front, #33033 Monroe $20.79
Shock Front, #33033 Monroe $20.79
Idler Arm K6096T Moog $24.79
Tie Rod Inner, ES409LT Moog $15.56
Tie Rod Inner, ES409LT Moog $15.56
Tie Rod Outer, ES409RT Moog $15.53
Tie Rod Outer, ES409RT Moog $15.53
Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve ES2004S Quick Steer $2.41
Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve ES2004S Quick Steer $2.41
Steering Gear, Power Reman. #277512 A-1 Cardone $132.79

Total: $644.22


Plus the front suspension from a junkyard, plus new lowering springs, I don't see how you could go over $1000.

[LVPhotos]

Well for that $650 build the torsion bar front end well... a few extra $$ for upgrades. I am on the pro bar bandwagon after I ditched mine. Now there are more companies selling parts for them. Softer ride and adjustable height.

[dstarrett]

I used a Fatman Fabrication in my 66 c20. Was an easy install and drives nice. Bolt in hub to hub front end with mustang II springs, rack, disc brakes, 5x5 Chevy bolt pattern. Uncertain what they have for 62 though.

[padresag]

I would feel safer with a truck suspension rather than one out of a 1/2 size car
perhaps in a Model "A" Ford or something along those lines if that is your thing and even there I would still prefer a straight axle
ron

[Captainfab]

It isn't exactly a bolt on, there are holes to drill. The '71-'87's are basically all the same. There is nothing special about a '77 C10. It is just a random year picked.

I seriously doubt that any complete aftermarket suspension will be a bolt in to a '60-'62 frame either.

Keep in mind that the price quoted by aggie91 also included a rebuilt power steering box.

Originally Posted by mschwader

If I were to find a 77 front end does it bolt right in to a 62 frame?

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

It isn't exactly a bolt on, there are holes to drill. The '71-'87's are basically all the same. There is nothing special about a '77 C10. It is just a random year picked.

I seriously doubt that any complete aftermarket suspension will be a bolt in to a '60-'62 frame either.

Keep in mind that the price quoted by aggie91 also included a rebuilt power steering box.

Captain is correct. Not a straight up bolt on, but only a few holes to drill. The 1977 year is nothing special. The 1973-1987 front ends have the rubber bushings in the A-Arms where the '71 & '72 have the steel bushings.

I picked the '77 year just because I had one at one time and I know that the parts are all the same for the purpose of this swap. The pricing that I used is in the middle of the part prices that are out there. RockAuto sell a brand called Quick Steer. It is made by Federal Mogul just like Moog. I have used both and very happy with either one. As an example, the Quick Steer Tie Rod Ends are $5.41 compared to the $15.53 for the Moog brand. There are ways to make this swap even less, but this is a good estimate with good quality parts for comparing what to do.

[mschwader]

Any chance you know what websites offer upgrades for torsion suspension?

Originally Posted by LVPhotos

Well for that $650 build the torsion bar front end well... a few extra $$ for upgrades. I am on the pro bar bandwagon after I ditched mine. Now there are more companies selling parts for them. Softer ride and adjustable height.

[par4tom]

I left the t bars in mine, added a sway bar and the truck rides beautiful down the highway. Sway bar run you around $200 bucks and there are a couple of threads on here regarding sway bars for the 60-62's.

Don't think I could win a race around the track in this truck but for everyday cruising, I like the ride. Plus, the truck tracks 100% straight down the road even on slightly bumpy roads and there's something to be said about that.

I wish I knew why everyone was so eager to get rid of these t bar rides. Maybe I'm missing something...maybe someone could explain it to me one day.

[mschwader]

Appreciate the feedback. I'm leaning towards restoring the existing front suspension now. I don't need something for sport. Its just to cruise and look good. I know I can lower the truck using factory t bars too. I just can't find any information on how to upgrade or replace the existing parts.

Originally Posted by par4tom

I left the t bars in mine, added a sway bar and the truck rides beautiful down the highway. Sway bar run you around $200 bucks and there are a couple of threads on here regarding sway bars for the 60-62's.

Don't think I could win a race around the track in this truck but for everyday cruising, I like the ride. Plus, the truck tracks 100% straight down the road even on slightly bumpy roads and there's something to be said about that.

I wish I knew why everyone was so eager to get rid of these t bar rides. Maybe I'm missing something...maybe someone could explain it to me one day.

[forestb]

You can not replace the actual torsion bars or lower control arms. But you can replace the spindles, shocks, the ball joints and the tie-rod ends. If you are not planning on bagging it or lowering it more than 5-6 inches in the front I would stick to the torsion bars. Just a warning the ball joints for a 60-62 can be expensive.

[par4tom]

A few years back, there were ZERO parts for these front ends, now CPP and McGaugheys offer drop spindles for these trucks. If you plan to use McGaughys drop spindles, you'll need to use their brake kits as well. I think the whole kit is about $600.

If you plan to go a Willwood Route, you'll need to go the CPP drops as the Wilwoods won' won't mount on the McGaugheys.

Forest is right, the ball joints are more pricey but not ridiculously bad. Get USA made parts.

On my torsion bars, about 8 to 10 turns will lower my truck about 1/2". I lowered my truck about a year ago and have not messed with those t bars since. I actually like them...a bit soft but still nice!

.QUOTE=forestb;7861273]You can not replace the actual torsion bars or lower control arms. But you can replace the spindles, shocks, the ball joints and the tie-rod ends. If you are not planning on bagging it or lowering it more than 5-6 inches in the front I would stick to the torsion bars. Just a warning the ball joints for a 60-62 can be expensive.[/QUOTE]
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