Any last minute advice installing full moldings with all new holes?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I've sweated this one for years, we’re installing the moldings Saturday. Lucky for me the body/paint guy is leading the project,

This truck had a paint separator only. We're adding full GM moldings on the sides and rear, tail bezels too. The bed came off another truck with full moldings, but the holes were welded up before I got it. This is a SWB fleetside Custom Deluxe, so it takes a lower molding as opposed a band on the tailgate.

As side moldings go, only the upper fender moldings require a hole per clip (6 ea.). The kit (NOS) includes 3M tape clips for the rest, with a hole drilled for I think each end of the part. Yeah we could probably use 3M on all of it, but we’re drilling per the kit.

Tried before for exact measurements, and still welcome any available. The assembly manual has them, but their initial reference points are meaningless. I do have a LWB with moldings I can reference for everything less the lower molding on the tailgate. LWB & SWB are basically the same. If I have to rip em off to see I will (ha!). Mostly kidding, but it’s just a beater. Any suggestions tips & appreciated.

[notsolo]

I drilled holes where the stick on clips would have been, 11 on a bed side upper LWB...I think , and bought an extra pack of upper and lower clips, used no sticky clips. Bolts where you can reach, upper clips mostly push on. Layed down blue tape, strait edge across center of holes you have and equal space the rest....smaller drill 1st then correct size.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by notsolo

I drilled holes where the stick on clips would have been, 11 on a bed side upper LWB...I think , and bought an extra pack of upper and lower clips, used no sticky clips. Bolts where you can reach, upper clips mostly push on. Layed down blue tape, strait edge across center of holes you have and equal space the rest....smaller drill 1st then correct size.

Thank you.

At the moment I'm looking for lower tailgate trim placement. So far I've come up empty.

Here's an image from the assm. manual. The height is Greek to me:

[El Dorado Jim]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Thank you.

At the moment I'm looking for lower tailgate trim placement. So far I've come up empty.

Here's an image from the assm. manual. The height is Greek to me:

https://issuu.com/truckandcarshop/docs/ts_60-72_web they have the lower trim for $23.00 clips are extra

[special-K]

I've added trim where it had not been before but that was on my own trucks. I don't feel qualified to tell others how from afar. Haven't done it in a good while as well. Notsolo did a good job with what he offered. I wonder if this wouldn't be a good topic to take over to the paint and body forum.

[Jcfcamaro]

Take lots of pictures please as I'm needing to do the same...

[KQQL IT]

I have a tailgate at home with all the holes for both pieces of trim and they're off.
I can lay a tape on any part you want a picture of to see tomorrow.

[notsolo]

GM measurements could have been better. .66 up from the bottom of the tailgate to the center of the hole. (.625 is 5/8" ) .66 in a fraction is close to 21/32 right in between 5/8 and 11/16. Mine was a original CST gate with the lower holes, this is how they layed out.

[71blksuper4x4]

Main advice is on the upper trim, it doesn’t go in a straight line. There is a slight crown to it front to back. The bed tends to dive down front to back to go with the body line. Too many just run a straight line from front to back and the trim gets too high in the rear. I had factory upper holes still in tact in my bed here.

[cebra]

If you use aftermarket push in clips, layer 3M double sided tape behind them (especially the tailgate trim). On the tailgate, I used 4 layers and on the side trim I used 3. This allows the push ins to engage and not just "sink" back into the moulding. I also squared the holes I drilled a bit with a small file, if doing again I would drill the holes slightly small and then square them. NOS and OEM are great but the aftermarket clips work fine if you use the tape method. The aftermarket bolt style clips I personally like better than OEM as they are larger/stiffer. The top door trim front clip is a pain to put a nut on...I didn't use push ins on any of my "lead clips" as I had one pop off and away went the trim on the highway pre-paint and didn't want to risk it after paint. The adhesive clips suck, the trim stick way out from the body so it is tight, loose, tight and looks bad.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 71blksuper4x4

Main advice is on the upper trim, it doesn’t go in a straight line. There is a slight crown to it front to back. The bed tends to dive down front to back to go with the body line. Too many just run a straight line from front to back and the trim gets too high in the rear. I had factory upper holes still in tact in my bed here.

I actually like the rear of the trim slightly higher,... so it DOES run in a straight line. To me it looks better.

I would suggest mounting the bed on the truck, with all body lines shimmed to your liking.
Then lay out the trim.
I've seen some trucks, where the trim was added to the bed while it was off the truck,... and looked terrible when installed.
I know of a couple reputable truck builders that raise the rear of the upper trim to make it flow better "visually".

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by notsolo

GM measurements could have been better. .66 up from the bottom of the tailgate to the center of the hole. (.625 is 5/8" ) .66 in a fraction is close to 21/32 right in between 5/8 and 11/16. Mine was a original CST gate with the lower holes, this is how they layed out.

Bingo, thank you

Originally Posted by Jcfcamaro

Take lots of pictures please as I'm needing to do the same...

If I feel right about it I plan to list everything with pics and measurements.

Originally Posted by El Dorado Jim

https://issuu.com/truckandcarshop/docs/ts_60-72_web they have the lower trim for $23.00 clips are extra

Cool deal, I was wondering if there's a on-stop shop for all the clips. I don't know how much of what I got can be salvaged after the dry run. If I had my ducks in a row I'd use the repro. clips for the dry run.

[tdangle]

I think what I would do is tape all the molding into place, making sure it is where you want it. Then with the molding taped, put tape on top and bottom of the body where the molding line is. then remove the molding. Now you have upper and lower tape to show where the molding would go. Then drill your holes in the center of the space. Should work.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by tdangle

I think what I would do is tape all the molding into place, making sure it is where you want it. Then with the molding taped, put tape on top and bottom of the body where the molding line is. then remove the molding. Now you have upper and lower tape to show where the molding would go. Then drill your holes in the center of the space. Should work.

I think you nailed it, and that's what I have in mind. Here's a nice instruction. Sometime into it he says don't drill until both sides are fitted. He mentions another instruction for the tailgate, but I'm unable to find one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JQYAEa0OGw&t=79s

[71blksuper4x4]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I actually like the rear of the trim slightly higher,... so it DOES run in a straight line. To me it looks better.

I would suggest mounting the bed on the truck, with all body lines shimmed to your liking.
Then lay out the trim.
I've seen some trucks, where the trim was added to the bed while it was off the truck,... and looked terrible when installed.
I know of a couple reputable truck builders that raise the rear of the upper trim to make it flow better "visually".

I know what you mean Keith. It may look better from a side shot, but where it ends up higher in the rear, that’s where the straight line formula doesn’t sit right by the taillight trim. To be correct from factory though, it does have a subtle crown to match the body line crown.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Looking at pictures, seems to make sense to install the taillight bezels before the upper and tailgate trim.

Preference on the slope of the upper bed trim, I like it factory, especially on a SWB. Here's a comparison.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 71blksuper4x4

I know what you mean Keith. It may look better from a side shot, but where it ends up higher in the rear, that’s where the straight line formula doesn’t sit right by the taillight trim. To be correct from factory though, it does have a subtle crown to match the body line crown.

This is suppose to be stock mouldings position.
I call it the drooping upper trim.
Notice the position of the the white paint at the rear tail light trim.
I believe Kyle from Laidback Recreation raises the white paint at the tail light,... to the top of the tail light mouldings
Then spits that paint line with the beds side trim.
This puts the upper trim in a straight line.

[71blksuper4x4]

Something is definitely wrong on that orange and white one. Don't know if it's drilled wrong in the rear slightly, or just drilled high up by the door with the door needing tweaked as well position wise. It shouldn't be that dramatic of a crown.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by 71blksuper4x4

Something is definitely wrong on that orange and white one. Don't know if it's drilled wrong in the rear slightly, or just drilled high up by the door with the door needing tweaked as well position wise. It shouldn't be that dramatic of a crown.

I agree there appears to be a drastic slope on that white/orange truck. Hard to tell sometimes with pics. Sweet truck though. The upper bed trim is supposed to have a 1.42" drop on a LWB, and 1.40" on a SWB.

Found these pictures on this site, I doctored up one. I’m surprised the lower molding holes are just .66” from the bottom of the tailgate, must be a real thin piece. The assembly manual shows “TRP” with that .66”, anyone know what that means?

Nice thread on this compliments Palf70Step. He mentions the 30” reference is 25” from the rockers, though I’m not sure which part of the rocker. If we do this right I’ll know for certain. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=221881